Exterior seam molding source needed
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum, and I'm at work at the moment, so I have to keep it brief, lol. So I doing a conversion on a transit bus and have had to completely strip off the exterior (bad rus...
Forum Discussion
Are you planning on any outside material over the plywood, like fiberglass or something? If so, I think typically you'd use that to cover the seams, after making whatever preparations are needed to ensure they stay tight and even.
I think boat hulls frequently just use a backer/butt block at the joint to hold the pieces in alignment, or else scarf and glue the joint to basically form a continuous piece of material. (Scarfing is easier for narrower widths and larger thicknesses than it is for a full 1/4" sheet of plywood!) Often they're covered over with a layer or two or three of fiberglass cloth for protection and waterproofing, and possibly a gelcoat or other finish.
There are various ways of forming a rounded corner, depending at least somewhat on the radius needed. For fixing up the bottom curve of the cabover on my class C, I put a seriese of strips around plywood formers, somewhat like barrel staves, with a layer of fiberglass epoxied to the front and back to tie them all together structurally. It made a fairly light and stiff and strong construction, though was a good bit of work to put together. I didn't use one, but a bead and cove router bit set applied to the edges of the strips would allow them to interlock where they meet and make for a stronger and better job overall.
I think boat hulls frequently just use a backer/butt block at the joint to hold the pieces in alignment, or else scarf and glue the joint to basically form a continuous piece of material. (Scarfing is easier for narrower widths and larger thicknesses than it is for a full 1/4" sheet of plywood!) Often they're covered over with a layer or two or three of fiberglass cloth for protection and waterproofing, and possibly a gelcoat or other finish.
There are various ways of forming a rounded corner, depending at least somewhat on the radius needed. For fixing up the bottom curve of the cabover on my class C, I put a seriese of strips around plywood formers, somewhat like barrel staves, with a layer of fiberglass epoxied to the front and back to tie them all together structurally. It made a fairly light and stiff and strong construction, though was a good bit of work to put together. I didn't use one, but a bead and cove router bit set applied to the edges of the strips would allow them to interlock where they meet and make for a stronger and better job overall.
