Foot Warming Pad for Unheated Storage Bays
I'm considering using one of these in my wet storage bay in the MH basement. I usually add a caged brood light in areas with water lines that are not adequately heating during freezing weather. I us...
Forum Discussion
Hi Ron,
One of the problems with my current RV is fresh water freeze ups during travel. The dash heat prevents the furnace from cycling. I solved that by replacing the return air grill with a dual window fan. It (luckily for me) pressurizes the heat ducts forcing warm cabin air into the freezing cold cabinets. I have a mechanical thermostat to control it. I run it on the inverter while traveling.
I've added 120 volt outlets in the pass through storage, waste tanks (enclosed but not heated) and fresh water hose storage. I use small electric heaters controlled by either mechanical thermostats or the TC-3 thermocube.
Since the RV is a 30 amp service, and I do a lot of boondocking at rural Churches, I "broke out" the converter, and the water heater. So I have effectively 3 shore power cords. The OEM 30 amp, a 20 amp, and a 15 amp. I use simple male and female plugs so I can switch back to the OEM wiring in about 30 seconds.
My major purchase this year for the RV was a 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter. The feature I like best is the ability to set the incoming amperage. I am often in situations where I have no access to the shore power breaker--so if I trip it I'm out of luck. It is *such* a relief to not have to worry about that any more.
I'm doing a lot of my heating with "magic carpets" which are 120 volt electrically heated with no wires--so they can be cut to the shape and size needed. I chose to get the indoor outdoor version which can be cleaned using a pressure washer.
One of the problems with my current RV is fresh water freeze ups during travel. The dash heat prevents the furnace from cycling. I solved that by replacing the return air grill with a dual window fan. It (luckily for me) pressurizes the heat ducts forcing warm cabin air into the freezing cold cabinets. I have a mechanical thermostat to control it. I run it on the inverter while traveling.
I've added 120 volt outlets in the pass through storage, waste tanks (enclosed but not heated) and fresh water hose storage. I use small electric heaters controlled by either mechanical thermostats or the TC-3 thermocube.
Since the RV is a 30 amp service, and I do a lot of boondocking at rural Churches, I "broke out" the converter, and the water heater. So I have effectively 3 shore power cords. The OEM 30 amp, a 20 amp, and a 15 amp. I use simple male and female plugs so I can switch back to the OEM wiring in about 30 seconds.
My major purchase this year for the RV was a 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter. The feature I like best is the ability to set the incoming amperage. I am often in situations where I have no access to the shore power breaker--so if I trip it I'm out of luck. It is *such* a relief to not have to worry about that any more.
I'm doing a lot of my heating with "magic carpets" which are 120 volt electrically heated with no wires--so they can be cut to the shape and size needed. I chose to get the indoor outdoor version which can be cleaned using a pressure washer.
