Grounding an Inverter?

enblethen wrote:
They, the negative of the DC system and the equipment grounding conductor, have the same potential.
The equipment grounding conductor should be separate and not rely on other connections to the ground. It should be run straight to the grounding source with out any splices or other connections.

Here, it appears that the chassis ground wire and the Positive/Negative wires (going to the battery) should be the same size. In my case, #2 wire. When you say, "equipment grounding conductor", I assume you're talking about the chassis ground.
In contrast to the same-size-wire camp, some feel a #8 AWG is sufficient. What if you don't run the same size and run a stretch of the #8? Is it possible the #8 will burn up when it's needed most? Is that the theory/fear? Is that also why an intermediate clamp/connection/splice in the chassis ground is undesirable, fearing the intermediate clamp/connection/splice will heat up when it's needed most?

Calkidd wrote:

However, speaking from experience, DO NOT hook the A/C side of the inverter directly to the trailers A/C power bus (where the breakers are). This will for sure fry your inverter. Don't ask me how I know this. The reason is because the trailer's DC and AC power share the same ground.

If you want to run a set of plugs, i.e. for TV or certain wall outlets you might want to consider a transfer switch or a DPDT switch. This is what I will be doing so I can switch between power, but at the same time keeping the inverter separate from the trailer power system.

What I'm reading is that it's OK to tie the inverter into the A/C panel, as long as there's a transfer switch between the A/C panel and the inverter/shore power sources. Am I reading that correctly? I hope so, because that's my plan, but I haven't wired it all in, yet. Isn't a transfer switch the same thing as a DPDT switch, except the DPDT switch is a manually operated device? I just want to make sure I'm understanding some of this correctly.