Hydronic and Espar Heat
Last year we modified our Winnebago View to be able to use the motorhome (full water, showers, dump tanks, without Propane) throughout the Wisconsin winters. I thought I'd share the writeup that I di...
Forum Discussion
SteveAE wrote:
If you are still monitoring this post, why did you choose the 3 gpm (15 watt) pump rather than the 2.2 gpm (5 watt) pump?
I first installed the 2 gpm pump and when I did my testing, the heat registers would not get to the temperature that I desired. I then switched to the 3gpm pump and that heated the registers to the desired temperature and reduced the heat loss. I wanted to get the water thru the pipes and back to the water heater with the least amount of heat loss as possible. The big factor in the whole setup is the recovery time on the water heater.
On our setup, I have two pumps installed. One pump for the hydronic heat and the other pump to circulate the water thru the water pipes if needed. That way I was able to shorten the path that the hydronic heated water took -- installed a check valve to make that loop smaller - bypassing the majority of the motorhomes water pipes. The other pump will turn on if the "other" pipes get below a certain temperature as set on the thermostatically controlled switch.
So to answer your question, I found that I needed the 3gpm to get that water thru the registers and back to the water heater faster than the 2gpm.
