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AlbertaNewbie's avatar
Jun 11, 2014

My Solar Install

Summary of parts/pieces.

Tristar mppt-45 controller
250w Conergy 250p 24v panel
10awg mc4 connector wire from roof to controller, wanted 8awg, but couldn't get them locally and shipping was ludicrous from other suppliers
6awg from cc to 2 group 27 batts.

Before


General layout before finishing



Fridge vent entry with 3/8" cord keepers that are waterproof, unfortunately dropped a screwdriver on the lousy screen and it went right through.


Spacers on the high side to clear the curvature of my roof

From the fridge vent behind the oven to an empty cabinet using the same cord keepers (sawdust removed later)


My cc and array on/off switch mounted on a 5/8" piece of plywood


Battery box with solar switch, only shows one batt as i had the other out to try and equalize a low cell.


Remote meter before i mounted it (didn't get an after picture, this one was already using a headlamp, but panel was still producing power as the sun was just behind the horizon)


More to come when I get the trailer back out of storage this weekend to install my inverter.

22 Replies

  • Other details,

    No i'm not worried about the sink above the control panel
    Also not worried about the lack of space (about 1" at the tightest) below the panel.
    Adjusted the voltage of the cc to account form the 5% voltage drop on the 6ga wire from cc to batts.4awg would've been nice, but cost was double and time was an issue,mheck i can get welding cable cheaper than 4ga cable but didn't want to deal with additional floor penetrations and 1" x 2 waterproof conduit vs 1 x 1/2" conduit.
    Used hermetic sealing silicone tape in lieu of heat shrink. Hammer crimper for all lugs. 50a breaker about 8" from batts in the battery box (not pictured) as i won't be going over about 35amps with my system if i ever add another panel.

    Don't have charge rates in sunlight yet, but expecting about 13-16 amps at noon, finished at 10pm and tookmthe thing to storage immediately after.

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