My Tesla powered Toy Hauler
I have built maybe a dozen solar, battery powered trailers over the past 10 years. My plan is to make this the most powerful and advanced one I have built. I started with a new to me 2010 Heartlan...
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I have done all the high power wiring between the battery, inverter and new breaker panel.
This is between the battery and the inverter. I used 00 welding cable as recommended in the manual. Seems like overkill. There is a 200 amp fuse on the positive (top) post of the tesla battery. You cant really see it but its there. Next is an on/off switch, then there is a contactor under the yellow cap. It is part of the battery management system (BMS) It will cut off charging when the battery is full and disconnect it if the voltage falls too low. Below that, on the negative wire, are two shunts. The first one is for the Victron battery monitor and the second one is for the BMS. I wasn't thrilled with the idea of putting two shunts in line but I had little choice. They are different millivolt values and I didnt want to start muking around trying to make the inverter work with the BMS shunt, or the other way around. I dont like the extra connections, ill just have to keep an eye on them and occasionally check them for tightness
After looking at the picture, I can see that I put red heat shrink on the negative instead of black! D'oh! I better fix that
This is between the battery and the inverter. I used 00 welding cable as recommended in the manual. Seems like overkill. There is a 200 amp fuse on the positive (top) post of the tesla battery. You cant really see it but its there. Next is an on/off switch, then there is a contactor under the yellow cap. It is part of the battery management system (BMS) It will cut off charging when the battery is full and disconnect it if the voltage falls too low. Below that, on the negative wire, are two shunts. The first one is for the Victron battery monitor and the second one is for the BMS. I wasn't thrilled with the idea of putting two shunts in line but I had little choice. They are different millivolt values and I didnt want to start muking around trying to make the inverter work with the BMS shunt, or the other way around. I dont like the extra connections, ill just have to keep an eye on them and occasionally check them for tightness
After looking at the picture, I can see that I put red heat shrink on the negative instead of black! D'oh! I better fix that
