New to me camper, missing door.
I bought a vintage camper the other day at an auction, its missing its door. The lower part is there, the top is gone. The opening is 24.5" x 40.5". The lower door is made with 1" square steel tubing ...
Forum Discussion
I'm not sure how the original door worked, all I found was a hinged metal strip, some rotted wood, and an old door catch.
The lower door is rounded on top, formed from fiberglass with no holes, brackets, or any signs of wear from an upper door making contact.
So far I took a piece of 1/2" ABX plywood and framed it on the back side with 3/4" x 4" wood with a diagonal brace. I glued the whole thing together with water proof wood glue and will coat the whole thing in epoxy resin and a layer of glass. I was going to use a piano hinge, but I think I may be better off with a larger hinge that swings the door outward farther so it folds flat against the back wall when open.
I also have to figure out what type of lights to put on this, so far I've found no sign of any factory lights other than the remains of 11 old marker lights around the perimeter of the roof. The body has no lights or holes, and the bumpers have no signs of ever having lights. There is a series of ceramic insulated studs on the front wall, one stud is connected to the frame, the other two have nothing on either side. The electrical wiring inside is nothing more than 120v hook up box on the left side, some BX cable running to a single screw in fuse box, one outlet, and three light fixtures. The single 15 amp fuse is blown but someone bridged the wiring behind the fuse holder. Needless to say that whole mess is going away. I'll set it up with a simple 2 breaker panel inside with one for the lights and one for several outlets.
The one part about this trailer that I find odd is that the outer perimeter of the floor is only supported by wood, no metal frame. Most of the body is hung the same way, the body only bolts through to metal at the end of the cross members and in the front. The rest of the body connects to wood, which is screwed to the angle iron cross members.
What ever type of wood they used, its survived in near perfect shape. Even the wood threshold at the door is solid.
The lower door is rounded on top, formed from fiberglass with no holes, brackets, or any signs of wear from an upper door making contact.
So far I took a piece of 1/2" ABX plywood and framed it on the back side with 3/4" x 4" wood with a diagonal brace. I glued the whole thing together with water proof wood glue and will coat the whole thing in epoxy resin and a layer of glass. I was going to use a piano hinge, but I think I may be better off with a larger hinge that swings the door outward farther so it folds flat against the back wall when open.
I also have to figure out what type of lights to put on this, so far I've found no sign of any factory lights other than the remains of 11 old marker lights around the perimeter of the roof. The body has no lights or holes, and the bumpers have no signs of ever having lights. There is a series of ceramic insulated studs on the front wall, one stud is connected to the frame, the other two have nothing on either side. The electrical wiring inside is nothing more than 120v hook up box on the left side, some BX cable running to a single screw in fuse box, one outlet, and three light fixtures. The single 15 amp fuse is blown but someone bridged the wiring behind the fuse holder. Needless to say that whole mess is going away. I'll set it up with a simple 2 breaker panel inside with one for the lights and one for several outlets.
The one part about this trailer that I find odd is that the outer perimeter of the floor is only supported by wood, no metal frame. Most of the body is hung the same way, the body only bolts through to metal at the end of the cross members and in the front. The rest of the body connects to wood, which is screwed to the angle iron cross members.
What ever type of wood they used, its survived in near perfect shape. Even the wood threshold at the door is solid.
