Brand new here so please forgive me if this is the wrong place to post in these forums.I am new here and new to RVs, but I've worked as an automotive technician for some time and am comfortable with the mechanical workings. I picked up a 1984 Jamboree for under $400 because it's suffered from very extensive water damage. I am planning on gutting everything and doing a rebuild. I have a few questions I hope you might all be able to help with:1) What size wood should I use for the wall studs, roof trusses, and floor joists? (2x4, 1x3, etc)2) Is there a preference of one type of wood versus another? (Azdel vs luan vs pressure treated, etc)3) Once new studs and roof trusses are placed what sort of epoxy/glue/etc should I use to bond them to the exterior wall? I've seen some people recommend Liquid Nails or 3M boating composite but I want to make sure I use the right material. I believe the exterior wall is fiberglass/laminate.4) Can I use closed cell spray foam insulation? I've read some people say it will crumble apart while driving and others say it holds just fine. The very high R-value makes me want to use closed cell but if it crumbles apart then it's not a real option.5) Should I rerun all wires/cables current found in the walls?6) Is regular plywood or particle board ok to place over the studs and insulation or is something else recommended? Is Azdel the wood-of-choice?I know this is a lot of work and I'm excited to do it. I look forward to your suggestions. Thank you.

Wall studs are generally kiln dryed 2X2 lumber. Roof joists, 2X4s cut with a taper for water run off. Floor joists, again I would go with 2X4s for strength. Since your stripping it and plan on a total rebuild, make a plan, identify what you might like to have where and run new wiring placing stuff where you want it. Easy now, not so easy once the wall paneling is in. As for interior paneling, you can use luan plywood, or buy some prefinished paneling and glue it on. As for what to use? Pick what you think works best. Insulation? I have always thought spray foam would make a tighter RV. Falling apart? Contact some spray foam contractors and ask them. Their the experts and should have the answers.

If gutting the RV I would go to metal studs. Lighter, stronger and rot proof. Insulate with closed cell foam. I'd use Azdel as much as I could.Rerun all wires and plan for an upgraded "house" battery bank.Be sure to do a prewire for solar panels. Use #4 wire.

Pictures please. We love to follow these rebuilds. You may get some better advice with pics.

Ive heard that presure treated lumber should never be used inside,,not sure why,maybe it may give of some bad fumes?When Im using plywood I make sure its exterior rated,,in case of another leak it wont rot,,not right away anyway

Pressure treated wood requires specific types of fasteners (well, specific materials) as the treatment chemicals tend to attack many metals. In particular, modern pressure treated wood will destroy aluminum it's in contact with in surprisingly short order.The difference between exterior and interior plywood is not so much the rot resistance of the wood, but the water resistance of the glue used to put it together. Marine plywood is better than exterior in this regard. I would concentrate more on making sure that water doesn't get in and not quite so much on keeping it from causing trouble if it does, though of course those are not mutually exclusive concerns.Foam panels are probably easier to work with than spray-in foam for this sort of thing. If you can glue the foam to the inside and outside skins (not always a straightforward task, granted), you will have a surprisingly strong laminated wall. One person here--I forget who--had success attaching foam panels to skins with great stuff spray foam, preferably the window and door kind that is somewhat less strongly expansive than the usual flavor.

Rebuilding a Class C Jamboree, have many questions

donn0128
Explorer II
Apr 20, 2017
Wall studs are generally kiln dryed 2X2 lumber. Roof joists, 2X4s cut with a taper for water run off. Floor joists, again I would go with 2X4s for strength. Since your stripping it and plan on a total rebuild, make a plan, identify what you might like to have where and run new wiring placing stuff where you want it. Easy now, not so easy once the wall paneling is in. As for interior paneling, you can use luan plywood, or buy some prefinished paneling and glue it on. As for what to use? Pick what you think works best. Insulation? I have always thought spray foam would make a tighter RV. Falling apart? Contact some spray foam contractors and ask them. Their the experts and should have the answers.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Apr 21, 2017
If gutting the RV I would go to metal studs. Lighter, stronger and rot proof. Insulate with closed cell foam. I'd use Azdel as much as I could.

Rerun all wires and plan for an upgraded "house" battery bank.

Be sure to do a prewire for solar panels. Use #4 wire.
dave17352
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
Pictures please. We love to follow these rebuilds. You may get some better advice with pics.
free_radical
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
Ive heard that presure treated lumber should never be used inside,,not sure why,maybe it may give of some bad fumes?

When Im using plywood I make sure its exterior rated,,in case of another leak it wont rot,,not right away anyway
DrewE
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2017
Pressure treated wood requires specific types of fasteners (well, specific materials) as the treatment chemicals tend to attack many metals. In particular, modern pressure treated wood will destroy aluminum it's in contact with in surprisingly short order.

The difference between exterior and interior plywood is not so much the rot resistance of the wood, but the water resistance of the glue used to put it together. Marine plywood is better than exterior in this regard. I would concentrate more on making sure that water doesn't get in and not quite so much on keeping it from causing trouble if it does, though of course those are not mutually exclusive concerns.

Foam panels are probably easier to work with than spray-in foam for this sort of thing. If you can glue the foam to the inside and outside skins (not always a straightforward task, granted), you will have a surprisingly strong laminated wall. One person here--I forget who--had success attaching foam panels to skins with great stuff spray foam, preferably the window and door kind that is somewhat less strongly expansive than the usual flavor.
MrEven
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
First look on the day I made the purchase.

***Link Removed***https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr0hDs_1TBw&feature=youtu.be
MrEven
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
I'm going tomorrow to see if she'll start. I'm changing the oil, replacing the coolant, and bringing along a jump pack. Also adding gas stabilizer and 5g of fresh gas. My hope is that the starter will engage and I'll go from there.
gbopp
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
If gutting the RV I would go to metal studs. Lighter, stronger and rot proof. Insulate with closed cell foam. I'd use Azdel as much as I could.

Rerun all wires and plan for an upgraded "house" battery bank.

Be sure to do a prewire for solar panels. Use #4 wire.

Excellent advice. I would also replace the water lines while you have the interior gutted.

And, when you get it up and running, you will probably need new tires.
RV tires usually age out before they wear out.
Teacher_s_Pet
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
Your "youtube" address is invalid.
MrEven
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
Teacher's Pet wrote:
Your "youtube" address is invalid.

Try out this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr0hDs_1TBw&feature=youtu.be