We are in the process of replacing our Norcold 1200 with a Samsung RF18 in our 2005 HR Endeavor. We have an inverter & generator and almost never dry camp. The Samsung will fit thru our entry door nicely... maybe an inch to spare. All the dimensions of the Samsung indicated that it will fit nicely in the same opening as the Norcold. The only dimension that will be close is the height. We have Lipert furnace under the fridge (9.5" or 10"). That leaves about .125" to .5" clearance at the top of the Samsung. The debate is if the furnace should be removed or not. It is one of two furnaces in the coach. Several questions:We were wondering if anyone out there had a similar issue?Were you able to leave the furnace and was the clearance adequate?Can you provide tips on how you built the floor for residential fridge (either over the furnace or not)?If you removed the furnace, how did you handle covering the outside hole? It is rather large and painted to match the coach.

Do not remove the furnace. Unless you never plan to be in cool weather and plan to never sell the RV. It's likely that the floor can be lowered a tad if you need extra space. Lowering as much as possible also makes the top of the fridge more accessible to shorter folks (DW?).

I installed that same refrigerator in my Jayco 5th wheel. I didn't have a furnace under mine, just a drawer. I had to remove it and redo the floor with 2X4s and 3/4" plywood. The Samsung refrigeratorIs taller by a few inches but had no problems installing it after I fixed the floor. The Samsung works great. Very pleased with the outcome. Good luck

Take a look at my install - link below - While I did not have the furnace below as we have aquahot, we did have a drawer there which I removed. I used slotted angle iron from Home Depot to build the base. I used stainless 1/4" bolts to hold it together. Great support for the residential fridge. You'll have to scroll down to see pictures of the support structure.....Good luck, you'll love the mod....DennisSamsung install

I built a plywood platform over the bottom drawer in my Sunova that the fridge sits on and cut the cabinets so it fit. It you look at the big box DIY stores, you may be able to find some finished trim that matches your woodwork. Look in with the paneling, molding and flooring. Sounds like if it's that close you may ave an easy install. We went with a bigger fridge that the Nevercold brand that was factory installed. You also need to think about what you're going to do with the old fridge vents. They may be open to the outside with no screening since they are vented due to burning propane. I replaced my side vent with one of these:Google "boat hatch"and then removed to roof vent and sealed it with:I made sure I had airflow around the new fridge by venting it above and below to the inside of the RV. You're going to have some 12 volt wiring that you need to "cap off" so there's no short later down the road. You may think of some use for it. The only drawback is you will be able to keep ice cream and it will make you fat.

No, one has really answered your question.No issue with the install over the furnace.

Residential fridge replacement | Good Sam Community

davosfam
Explorer
Jun 16, 2016
If I can butt into this thread a little...do you have to get a larger inverter to deal with a residential fridge? We keep our 5th wheel on a lot and it is always hooked up to power.

I know RV fridges don't last like they used to so I am already preparing to replace our with a residential fridge.
Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Jun 16, 2016
You don't need ANY inverter is you use a residential fridge but are always hooked up to power. Even traveling between 2 locations, if you don't open the fridge, everything will still be cool and cold when you get to your next location.
Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Jun 17, 2016
davosfam wrote:
If I can butt into this thread a little...do you have to get a larger inverter to deal with a residential fridge? We keep our 5th wheel on a lot and it is always hooked up to power.

I know RV fridges don't last like they used to so I am already preparing to replace our with a residential fridge.

In your case, no need for an inverter since you never camp without shore power.

BUT to answer your question..

You are correct, to start a inductive load like a fridge compressor you must have an inverter large enough to handle the large startup surges.

Typically compressor run current will be about 1A at 120V, but the startup surge current can be 9A-10A at 120V.

Some folks have been able to get away with a 800W inverter but it is better to error on the larger side in this case.

For my setup I went with a Tripplite PV1250, it has 1250W continuous with a surge rating of 2500W for up to 10 minutes..
Ivylog
Explorer III
Jun 17, 2016
My unit came within 1/2" of height of fitting. Had to remove the floor and added side rails 1/2' lower to support the new refer. DW did not want to loose the drawer below. I added right angle metal brackets to the top corners of the drawer opening to help support the load. The weight is carried by the side rails and the front cross member which I cut down 1/2". The foil backed insulation is to keep stuff from falling into the drawer.

I added 500 AH of batteries and a 1000W PSW inverter which will run it for 36+ hours before needing to recharge. Could have gotten by with 250AH as my house batteries need charging every 12-18 hours under normal use when boondocking. When running a EnergyStar refer is so effecient it only uses 8 amps DC... 96W AC... less than a 100W bulb. I wish I'd figured this out several years ago before spending too much money on my NoCold 1200 and we boondock often.

Here is my DIYinstall.
westend
Explorer
Jun 17, 2016
Ivylog,
How long have you owned that Makita reciprocating saw? I have one that is 30+ years old and has done a lot of work.
Ivylog
Explorer III
Jun 17, 2016
Only about 20 years and only use it when a chain saw will not leave a smooth enough edge.:B
davosfam
Explorer
Jun 17, 2016
Gdetrailer wrote:
In your case, no need for an inverter since you never camp without shore power.

BUT to answer your question..

You are correct, to start a inductive load like a fridge compressor you must have an inverter large enough to handle the large startup surges.

Typically compressor run current will be about 1A at 120V, but the startup surge current can be 9A-10A at 120V.

Some folks have been able to get away with a 800W inverter but it is better to error on the larger side in this case.

For my setup I went with a Tripplite PV1250, it has 1250W continuous with a surge rating of 2500W for up to 10 minutes..

Thank you. Very helpful to know. I am already plotting my RV fridge's death. Haha!
Slownsy
Explorer
Jun 17, 2016
Peaple in Australia are installing inverter fridges I belive mainly Mitsubishi and they operate of a 300W PSW inverter
.Frank.
NeverHome2
Explorer
Jun 19, 2016
The new fridge is in and looks great! So much more room than the old one and bright light inside too! Top shelf is a little high but not a problem since we are both tall. Plan to use bungee cord for the doors. Found decorative aluminum grate for under the fridge to allow air intake for the furnace. Overall, very pleased with the project!
TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Jun 19, 2016
Very nice work. Now go reward yourself with some ice cream!

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