Residential Refrigerator???

abideejay wrote:
No issues with a MSW inverter and the refrigerator?

NONE
4yrs and going strong, both the fridge and the inverter
its made for motors and tools
the fridge is an easy load for this model

tripp-lite also mfg PSW and they mfg inverter-charger combo units
its the heavy duty construction that gives it the power and durability/reliability

it can power our full size MW which draws 1685 input watts

i prefer the generator, but some times late at night
is use the MW to warm something up and its on the inverter power
i do turn off the fridge stat just to keep it from cycling while i use the MW

Acampingwewillgo wrote:
You can still dry camp with a residential, it just takes a bit more planning. With all the talk about gas absorption and fire issues, I feel even better about the residential besides the 300.00 cost compared to the 12-1500.00 price tag.

How would you dry camp with a Residential fridge, as there would be no electricity to run it on. I guess then you would just use a ice cooler?

Terryallan wrote:

Acampingwewillgo wrote:
You can still dry camp with a residential, it just takes a bit more planning. With all the talk about gas absorption and fire issues, I feel even better about the residential besides the 300.00 cost compared to the 12-1500.00 price tag.

How would you dry camp with a Residential fridge, as there would be no electricity to run it on. I guess then you would just use a ice cooler?

A residential fridge uses 120 volts. An inverter converts 12 volts from the batteries to 120 volts. Solar panels produce 12 volts to charge the batteries. In case of bad weather a small quiet generator can be used to rapid charge a battery bank via a hi output 40 to 100 amp charger depending on the size of the battery bank. We have a large 22 cubic foot residential fridge. We dry camp routinely....and never have to worry about being level.

John & Angela wrote:

Terryallan wrote:

Acampingwewillgo wrote:
You can still dry camp with a residential, it just takes a bit more planning. With all the talk about gas absorption and fire issues, I feel even better about the residential besides the 300.00 cost compared to the 12-1500.00 price tag.

How would you dry camp with a Residential fridge, as there would be no electricity to run it on. I guess then you would just use a ice cooler?

A residential fridge uses 120 volts. An inverter converts 12 volts from the batteries to 120 volts. Solar panels produce 12 volts to charge the batteries. In case of bad weather a small quiet generator can be used to rapid charge a battery bank via a hi output 40 to 100 amp charger depending on the size of the battery bank. We have a large 22 cubic foot residential fridge. We dry camp routinely....and never have to worry about being level.

A generator is NOT an option. Where we camp on the Blue ridge Parkway. There is no such thing as a "quiet" generator. There are just some that aren't as loud as others. but still too loud. And well the trees block the sun. So we are back to the gas fridge or ice cooler. Which for us is not a problem. We have never had one minutes problem from our RV fridge, or cooler.

Terryallan wrote:

John & Angela wrote:

Terryallan wrote:

Acampingwewillgo wrote:
You can still dry camp with a residential, it just takes a bit more planning. With all the talk about gas absorption and fire issues, I feel even better about the residential besides the 300.00 cost compared to the 12-1500.00 price tag.

How would you dry camp with a Residential fridge, as there would be no electricity to run it on. I guess then you would just use a ice cooler?

A residential fridge uses 120 volts. An inverter converts 12 volts from the batteries to 120 volts. Solar panels produce 12 volts to charge the batteries. In case of bad weather a small quiet generator can be used to rapid charge a battery bank via a hi output 40 to 100 amp charger depending on the size of the battery bank. We have a large 22 cubic foot residential fridge. We dry camp routinely....and never have to worry about being level.

A generator is NOT an option. Where we camp on the Blue ridge Parkway. There is no such thing as a "quiet" generator. There are just some that aren't as loud as others. but still too loud. And well the trees block the sun. So we are back to the gas fridge or ice cooler. Which for us is not a problem. We have never had one minutes problem from our RV fridge, or cooler.

Good point. I suppose there will always be a place for a propane absorption fridge. We have never been in a situation like that but I'm sure they are out there. When we travel with our little tent trailer we use a compressor based chest fridge/freezer. We run it off a small AGM battery that seems to last about two days. We have a portable 80 watt solar panel that supplements that and we have gone longer. We just keep moving the panel around to where the sun comes through the trees. However, on cloudy days this won't work.

Happy trails.

MrWizard wrote:
i bought this one in 2010
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-PV1250FC-Industrial-Inverter/dp/B000A6STQ6



this is Industrial quality it has a heavy transformer, it handles motor surges with ease, and it doesn't overheat, its designed to operate electric motors

it has been running our residential fridge 24/7 almost 4 yrs now..be 4yrs in Nov

here is the tripplite website about that inverter

http://www.tripplite.com/industrial-strength-inverter-1250w-2-outlets~PV1250FC/

X2 on the Tripplite!

This is the same model I decided to use with my home fridge conversion 7 years ago. It is a very robust well designed MSW which uses a old school heavy 60hz transformer in the output stage to boost the 12V AC to 120V AC. This design allows the transformer to absorb the large inductive back EMF which happens when running induction motors in fridge compressors.

Built like a tank and most likely will outlast your RV and then some.

I also make use of the "load sense" feature which turns off the output stage when no 120V demand is detected. I set mine so a 9W load will turn the inverter on so when I open the fridge door the inverter turns on and powers the light bulb, close the door and inverter shuts down..

The Amp/hr savings is substantial using the load sense to the tune of at least 24Ahr per 24 hrs!

I also am using a Haier 10 cu ft fridge, we love it, keeps the food at 34F-36F all day and night (100F temps in the day and 70F at night) unlike the old absorbtion fridge which would be as high as 50F in the day and drop to 20F at night (freezing the milk solid overnight)..

As far as batteries, we are light users but one pair of 6V GC batteries gives us plenty of power to overnight using the furnace and running the fridge..