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tcab's avatar
tcab
Explorer
Dec 30, 2025

RV Queen entire removal: Circuit Breaker Panel relocate

I am removing the queen bed entirely in a 2012 2251S chevy c-class forest river forester and I see perhaps a floor vent not sure, but there is a breaker panel there in the box.  I want to remove this bed entirely and move that panel elsewhere. as a technical writer, I am ASTONISHED that there are NO DRAWINGS anywhere about structure interiors.  e.g.

1. what is under that queen box.
2. Purpose: need useable space when slide out is NOT slid out.

a. queen bed slideout instead of full or single, 
b. bed over cab will become storage/other use.
c. Where will I sleep: inflatable expandable portable bed instead of queen box.
d. dinette.  This area is being converted into an office area with fold up table
e. dinette: a futon foam chair has been acquired.
f. Seatbelts in dinette: The RV will never have more than two humans so seatbelts in dinette no needed.
g. Gas oven and stove top: will be replaced with electric convection oven and induction stove top. Please anyone make recommendation. It is likely the oven is useless.
h. intention: reduce footprint of propane gas and implement more electrical. Please anyone: tell me re: electrical implications/changes needed.
i. I have a network of engineers that can do this work.

Purpose of the RV:
a. Portable civil war historical and ancient indians history research station, weekender only no long distance trips.
b. video production studio

2 Replies

  • I wouldn't be astonished about the lack of documentation in Rv's. This is pretty common. Quality control in the RV industry is not like auto manufacturing. 2 identical RVs can come off the assembly line wired differently. That's because you have the same people working on different models all day long. Instead of being focused on your particular RV's build sheet, it might help to learn how Rvs in general are manufactured. You'll find "themes" on how they are built and what components usually go where. As far as customizing your RV, have fun. Just be thoughtful on your power demands vs supply, the weight vs the GCWR of the chassis and how that weight is distributed. Also be cautious of how much weight you put in a slide. The slide mechanisms were spec'd to support the weight of what the coach had when it was built. You add any considerable weight and you could invite slide problems and failure with more weight and unequal distribution than the slide can handle.  Some slide mechanisms are already prone to issues. You mentioned replacing the LP stove with an electric convection oven and induction stove top. These are heavy amp draw items. Can your electrical connection and panel support those? Again, the coach was spec'd to handle what it came with. Adding more electrical items may mean a complete electrical upgrade - like from 30 Amp service to 50 Amp. This isn't a simple plug and play. You may find that if it has a 3500 or 4500 gen set, now you need a 5500. Again, a small root canal and expensive to boot. Lastly, moving a breaker panel is also a bit of a root canal. The way wires are chased in an RV can be pretty tricky to move things around. You will also find you have fuse panels and probably more than one. Hopefully someone in your network of engineers has some subject matter expertise in RVs. In your case specifically electrical, both 12V and 120.  There are lots of small custom RV builders that can turn almost anything (small buses, box trucks, vans, etc) into whatever you want. You may find all the things you want to do to this 14 year old Class C is more expensive, less cost effective, more labor intensive and not exactly what you want than starting from scratch. Older RVs are more challenging to maintain. Sealing, caulking, mechanical, plumbing, winterizing, etc. it's not only a 14 year old RV, it's sitting on a 15 or 16 year old chassis.  I can say with every confidence that whatever money you put into this project you will never see a dime of it back on a re-sale. I am sure that isn't the point, but it can't be understated. It's hard to state percentages but from where I sit about 90% of these DIY projects never get finished. With a custom build, you spec what you want, take it to a builder, you have one up front cost and get everything exactly the way you want it, from someone who does it for a living and it's easier to maintain. My $.02. YMMV. 

  • I’d suggest that if you don’t “know what it is” that you leave it alone and don’t attempt to “move it.”  
    Unless I’m mistaken and you have the skills and understanding to relocate what appears to be a major electrical component. 

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