Forum Discussion
- JimM68ExplorerWow, am I the only one to have trouble?
Mine worked right for about a year, then started giving flaky readings.
The 2 panels (one inside, 1 in the wetbay) do not read the same. Black never reads less than 35% both gray and black seem to read something different everytime I press the button. Both read 100% LONG before the tanks are full (I installed them near the top of course...)
I used the original wiring...
I soldered and heatshrinked all the splices.
It initially went crazy after I sprayed down the wetbay with 409 and hosed it out to clean it.
Seelevel said the sensors can't take that, so I paid for replacements (they refused to warrantee anything) but the new sensors made bo difference at all.
I've removed both panels (one at a time...lol) but no change.
I've used a few different tank cleaners, including using the GEO method for a while.
The Techma toilet sensor has always worked perfectly, and still does, but this is just a green, goes yellow at 50% ish, and when it goes red the toilet won't flush.
I'd really like this setup to work good again.
And I sure wish there was easier access in the Monaco's wet bay. - PoncherellyExplorerMine is the new style then since I only have a single wire for each and a fuse in line with the power to the unit.
- Dutch_12078Explorer II
tad94564 wrote:
FYI, There is now two different seelevel systems..
The old one used the original sensor wiring if it was there; each sensor had a seperate wire.
The new one uses a one wire setup between all the sensors.
The old one (at least as of 2008) also only needed a single wire (plus ground) to connect all the tank sensors except the LP to the display. Depending on the tank layout, it sometimes works out better to use one of the original sensor wires at each tank though, tying them together at the display for connection to the single input wire. On my installation for example, I used one wire from the original gray tank sensors to bring the new black and gray sensor signals to the display input, and a separate original wire from a fresh tank sensor to bring that new sensor's signal to the same display input. - PoncherellyExplorerI got it sorted... thanks. should be done the install by this weekend if the weather and mosquitos are equally nice to me. The inside connections will be done tonight for sure.
I'm mounting the unit right about the stove and using all pre wires located for the pump, heater and reset light. I used the extra power to power my rear view camera. When all is said and done this should be a clean install. - tad94564ExplorerFYI, There is now two different seelevel systems..
The old one used the original sensor wiring if it was there; each sensor had a seperate wire.
The new one uses a one wire setup between all the sensors. - Keith_HawExplorerDon't want to hijack but, my current panel controls tanks/pump/heater/and some lights, anyone replaced a panel like this with one?
- dkreuzenExplorerI installed one on my last MH and was very pleased with it. I haven't done the new MH yet but I plan to.
- Dutch_12078Explorer IIFrom my 709-PH installation manual:
Wire Color...............Function
Red 18 gauge..........+12V power input to monitor
Black 18 gauge........Ground
Blue 18 gauge..........Tank senders
Yellow 18 gauge.......Pump power output
White 18 gauge........Heater power output
Orange 18 gauge......Heater pilot out input
Green 18 gauge........LPG tank
Because the pump switch is only rated for slightly more current than my pump draws, I chose to add a small relay controlled by the switch, with the relay contacts controlling the original pump power source to the pump. That keeps the pump on its original separate fuse. The water heater control power connects to the white wire per the chart, and the heater ignition indicator connects to the orange wire.
The small cube relay I used for the pump is a low cost fog light relay available at most auto parts stores. The 30 amp rating is overkill, but the price is right. - PoncherellyExplorerCan anyone provide some guidance on my install? The seelevel has 1 wire for the pump and heater but the heater and pump have 2 wires with the switch completing the circuit. Do I simply connect the down stream line (no power when off) to the see level and the units will get their power from the seelevel panel? If this is the case, what have others done with that extra 12volt wire? I figured one will be used to power the seelevel. Am I understanding what needs to be done?
Oh and my heater reset switch also has 2 wires and only gets power when the pump is on, which wire do I use for that light? - older_fossilExplorer
slomark wrote:
My experience with the See Level system was quite disappointing. As recommended, I temporarily mounted the sensors in order to determine the best vertical location on the tank. However, when filling each of the four tanks with a five gallon bucket, it became clear that the sensors were not measuring the five gallon increases the same. One tank might increase it's level by 25%, and another tank would not change at all.
After speaking with their tech support it was advised to place the sensors on the lower portion of the waste tank, thus allowing for outage at the 100% level and the inverse for the fresh water tank. And yes, the installation instructions were closely followed.
In addition, they suggested that the inaccurate reading might be to scum build up on the tank walls. After purchasing their recommended tank flush product, there was no change in the accuracy of the sensors.
I've developed a chart for each tank, and it's relative percentage of capacity.
Thats why I would not recommend this product. Hope this helps.
We've had a SeeLevel gauge system installed for at least 10 years and have been very happy. The only problem we've had with it was due to a crimp splice that got corroded. That one caused rather strange symptoms and took a while to find.
This system works by sensing the level of the liquid through the tank wall (not the volume of liquid). If the tank's cross section area is not uniform, then the volume change is not directly proportional to the level change. This system works best on rectangular tanks. One of my tanks is somewhat wedge shaped so I put the sensor on the middle of the sloping side as a compromise. Like some others, I'm mostly concerned about when the fresh water tank is getting low and the gray and black tanks are close to full, and placed my sensors with that in mind.
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