Storage compartment lights

Around here, we call that going to Duluth by way of Mankato. There is nothing difficult to pulling one wire into anywhere in an RV. The ground can be found anywhere along the frame.

Most of these wiring schemes I come across on the Forum where members choose to add to the difficulty rather than make it simple are a result of lack of wiring skill. Yes, I was there once. For LED lights, the wire size can be small and the power wire can be lead from the 12V distribution center, the battery, or any other spot that has 12V available. Research into wire ties, holding accessories, and terminations may bring good results.

If a hole or a wire is anathema, buy some battery operated puck lights. They work as well as any other configuration.

yes I'm trying to avoid drilling holes and running wires.

For some of my power mods I can tap into the back of the radio or an under counter led light.

westend wrote:

My main problem is finding ones that stay on. The lights pull so few amps that the pack thinks the phone stopped taking a charge.

Most 120V to USB charging bricks are continuous voltage at 5V. Alternatively, there are 5V transformers readily available. Also, all ATX computer power supplies output 5V through one power lead.

For a 6' LED light strip, I'd power it with the trailer's 12V system. Should be almost unlimited reserve power for a small LED strip and you won't need anything else in the circuit except a fuse and a switch.

So would I, but chartle's goal seemed to be to avoid having to tie into the RV power supply in any way, or I assume to run new wires hither and yon. I can well appreciate why one may wish to avoid that sort of work.

My main problem is finding ones that stay on. The lights pull so few amps that the pack thinks the phone stopped taking a charge.

Most 120V to USB charging bricks are continuous voltage at 5V. Alternatively, there are 5V transformers readily available. Also, all ATX computer power supplies output 5V through one power lead.

For a 6' LED light strip, I'd power it with the trailer's 12V system. Should be almost unlimited reserve power for a small LED strip and you won't need anything else in the circuit except a fuse and a switch.

I bought a strip of these in white.

https://www.banggood.com/200CM-SMD3528-LED-Flexible-Strip-Tape-Light-USB-Switch-Lamp-PC-TV-Background-Lighting-DC5V-p-1118527.html?cur_warehouse=CN

DrewE wrote:

chartle wrote:
My plan is to avoid tapping into the 12v and use 5v strips with small phone chargers. Though I might in the one where the radio is since I have 12 volts already there.

How do you plan on powering your 5V phone chargers? Or do you mean those external battery pack thingies that need recharging from time to time?

If you don't want to run new wires, there are any number of battery powered stick-on LED lamps available from all sorts of places. For instance, American Science and Surplus sells these and these others, Ikea has these and the others, and so on.

Yes ones that need to be recharged. I have parts coming to run a 6 foot 5v light strip in my pass through storage. It will be tucked up and under the front bed so difficult to get to to turn on a switch. The strip had a cord and a switch. I've tested even the small ones and they last for a few hours.

My main problem is finding ones that stay on. The lights pull so few amps that the pack thinks the phone stopped taking a charge.

chartle wrote:
My plan is to avoid tapping into the 12v and use 5v strips with small phone chargers. Though I might in the one where the radio is since I have 12 volts already there.

How do you plan on powering your 5V phone chargers? Or do you mean those external battery pack thingies that need recharging from time to time?

If you don't want to run new wires, there are any number of battery powered stick-on LED lamps available from all sorts of places. For instance, American Science and Surplus sells these and these others, Ikea has these and the others, and so on.

My plan is to avoid tapping into the 12v and use 5v strips with small phone chargers. Though I might in the one where the radio is since I have 12 volts already there.

consider using a magnetic switch so they can't be left on with the door closed.

That's one way. Ever consider a AA battery LED light. "Light switch" style. Sold at Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks. 200 lumens. Stick on or drill a hole.