stronger rear end

The "tow rating" is completely meaningless, and is usually based on a stripped model with a driver, nothing else. You need to find the Gross Combined Weight Rating, then actually weigh your truck as it will be while towing. Subtract the trucks weight from the gross combined figure- that will give what you can tow. That figure is often thousands of pounds below the "tow rating".

An owner can make mods that improve the towing feel, nothing you do will change the tow rating as set by the factory.

hxcburrito wrote:
My truck pulls our tt just fine. A little slow on acceleration and up a grade. But, were thinking about a tt with a slide out. Majority that fall within our price range are around 5500 lbs +, and my truck is rated for 6500...... per specs and dealership. I was just wondering if I beefed up the truck or added a few mods, if that would help out any

What is the truck?

What are your RAWR/GVWR and RAW/GVW with the current TT? You will run out of RAWR/GVWR long before GCWR and if it's a 1/2 ton there isn't anything you can do to increase it.

1/2 tons are almost always rated at actual frame/axle capacity, but there is quite a bit of legitimate fudge room on a 2500 or 3500 SRW.

If you want an honest answer we need more information. I am not at all opposed to exceeding RAWR or GVWR (I do it on most camping trips), but there has to be some research and checks and balances on the components... we can't give you an honest assessment without knowing the platform.

My truck pulls our tt just fine. A little slow on acceleration and up a grade. But, were thinking about a tt with a slide out. Majority that fall within our price range are around 5500 lbs +, and my truck is rated for 6500...... per specs and dealership. I was just wondering if I beefed up the truck or added a few mods, if that would help out any

Why not get a truck that is rated to handle the load that you want to put on it. Go big or stay home.

We I camped in tents and tent trailer, a Ford Courier could handle the load. As we upgraded to 5th wheel trailers we had to upgrade truck. Duck tape, bailing wire and aftermarket want-to-be part are not going to cut it.

You can install overloads, etc, to correct "squat" somewhat, but you are still limited in what you can carry by the ratings on your rear axle and tires. You can do the same with air bags with the same limitations. In other words, you can't make a 1500 into a 2500 by bolting on some parts.

DutchmenSport wrote:
Sometimes you've just got to let go of the music when the phonograph wears out ... time for a new truck!

:B

X2!

You can put as much lipstick on a "pig" as you want, but in reality it is what it is (a pig)..

There a lot of folks who subscribe to the idea that adding aftermarket parts gives them more capacity than what the manufacturer specd.. The problem is no matter how much YOU modify the suspension the only thing matters is what is on your vehicles data plate (and YOU can not "change" that).

Sometimes you've just got to let go of the music when the phonograph wears out ... time for a new truck!

On a 1500 no, the axle is already the limit.

On most 2500's it's not needed before you run out of tire capacity.

Why no just buy a 3500? Usually much cheaper than trying to make one