Hey folksAs soon as the weather cooperates and we can seal the roof, a new floor goes in! We're wanting to go the vinyl route, but with all the research I've done, I can't find enough info on what's better for an RV - vinyl stick planks, or the more traditional sheet. I have seen a few pics here where the sheet split - I'm in upstate NY, so weather is a big factor to my decision. But.... how's that vinyl plank for moisture control? Was leaning towards sheet because there are no gaps, but I shudder at the notion of all the work and then a crack after the first winter! I like the idea of the plank/tile installation, as it seems way more familiar to me, having done floating wood floor and the like, but I'm worried with the temp expansion/contractions the gaps will be bigger, and any spills can wreak more havoc. Also, regardless of type, going on top of particle board sub floor, is there a moisture barrier to put down as well? Any tips or tricks on either of these would be extremely helpful for our decision! TIA!

Put in Allure from HoD 2 years ago. Not recommended for installation in non-climate controlled environments. Looks the same now. Use the Grip Strip version not the click together. Leave a gap around the edges and cut around anything that goes through the vinyl into the subfloor. Do not screw or nail through the vinyl. The entire floor needs to move as a unit.

Racer12 wrote:I have a 2011 Cedar Creek and we ordered it with 12 inch by 12 inch vinyl tiles. I have had a couple of them replaced due to damage (droping things), other than that no problems and I live in northern MinnesotaDid you put a vapor or water barrier underneath? And are they glued? The floating floor makes sense for the expansion/contraction issue, but with the thinner tiles, I think glue is all they have...

Cummins12V98 wrote:Glue down "LVT" (luxury vinyl tile) is the way to go. Not floating or snap together. Easy to lift one and replace if damaged. Installed in many DentalClinics over the years. I have it in current DRV.Is yours weather controlled, though? Mine will not be. Depending on what temp it is for installation, I could leave the tiniest of gaps between tiles, to accommodate? Maybe wax it, just to fill in those gaps? I don't know, maybe I'm worrying too much about the temp aspect. I'll just be so mad if I don't take it seriously enough, and something happens :/

rambleonrose wrote:Hey folksAs soon as the weather cooperates and we can seal the roof, a new floor goes in! We're wanting to go the vinyl route, but with all the research I've done, I can't find enough info on what's better for an RV - vinyl stick planks, or the more traditional sheet. I have seen a few pics here where the sheet split - I'm in upstate NY, so weather is a big factor to my decision. But.... how's that vinyl plank for moisture control? Was leaning towards sheet because there are no gaps, but I shudder at the notion of all the work and then a crack after the first winter! I like the idea of the plank/tile installation, as it seems way more familiar to me, having done floating wood floor and the like, but I'm worried with the temp expansion/contractions the gaps will be bigger, and any spills can wreak more havoc. Also, regardless of type, going on top of particle board sub floor, is there a moisture barrier to put down as well? Any tips or tricks on either of these would be extremely helpful for our decision! TIA!Unless you can remove all the appliances and furniture, I'd think it'd be very difficult to put down a solid sheet of vinyl flooring. Way too many irregular cuts in the flooring, it seems to me.Would think individual vinyl plank, or squares would be easier to trim and place.

You can get waterproof vinyl. My thoughts on it are that in the plank, if something cracks, you only have to replace one or two pieces, not the whole thing. That's what we have in most of our rental property.

Vinyl flooring - plank or sheet?? | Good Sam Community

jplante4
Explorer II
Mar 25, 2019
Put in Allure from HoD 2 years ago. Not recommended for installation in non-climate controlled environments. Looks the same now. Use the Grip Strip version not the click together. Leave a gap around the edges and cut around anything that goes through the vinyl into the subfloor. Do not screw or nail through the vinyl. The entire floor needs to move as a unit.
- Skiptomylou
  Explorer
  Aug 08, 2024
  This is beautiful!! Thanks for sharing your photos. I'm planning now to redo flooring in our 2007 Keystone Everest.
  - way2roll
    Navigator II
    Aug 08, 2024
    You are responding to a post that's 5 years old and the op hasn't been here in years.
rambleonrose
Explorer II
Mar 25, 2019
Racer12 wrote:
I have a 2011 Cedar Creek and we ordered it with 12 inch by 12 inch vinyl tiles. I have had a couple of them replaced due to damage (droping things), other than that no problems and I live in northern Minnesota

Did you put a vapor or water barrier underneath? And are they glued? The floating floor makes sense for the expansion/contraction issue, but with the thinner tiles, I think glue is all they have...
rambleonrose
Explorer II
Mar 25, 2019
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Glue down "LVT" (luxury vinyl tile) is the way to go. Not floating or snap together. Easy to lift one and replace if damaged. Installed in many DentalClinics over the years. I have it in current DRV.

Is yours weather controlled, though? Mine will not be. Depending on what temp it is for installation, I could leave the tiniest of gaps between tiles, to accommodate? Maybe wax it, just to fill in those gaps? I don't know, maybe I'm worrying too much about the temp aspect. I'll just be so mad if I don't take it seriously enough, and something happens :/
Atlee
Explorer II
Mar 29, 2019
rambleonrose wrote:
Hey folks

As soon as the weather cooperates and we can seal the roof, a new floor goes in!

We're wanting to go the vinyl route, but with all the research I've done, I can't find enough info on what's better for an RV - vinyl stick planks, or the more traditional sheet.

I have seen a few pics here where the sheet split - I'm in upstate NY, so weather is a big factor to my decision.

But.... how's that vinyl plank for moisture control? Was leaning towards sheet because there are no gaps, but I shudder at the notion of all the work and then a crack after the first winter! I like the idea of the plank/tile installation, as it seems way more familiar to me, having done floating wood floor and the like, but I'm worried with the temp expansion/contractions the gaps will be bigger, and any spills can wreak more havoc.

Also, regardless of type, going on top of particle board sub floor, is there a moisture barrier to put down as well?

Any tips or tricks on either of these would be extremely helpful for our decision!
TIA!

Unless you can remove all the appliances and furniture, I'd think it'd be very difficult to put down a solid sheet of vinyl flooring. Way too many irregular cuts in the flooring, it seems to me.

Would think individual vinyl plank, or squares would be easier to trim and place.
Merrykalia
Explorer
Mar 24, 2019
You can get waterproof vinyl. My thoughts on it are that in the plank, if something cracks, you only have to replace one or two pieces, not the whole thing. That's what we have in most of our rental property.
jfkmk
Explorer
Mar 25, 2019
I just installed vinyl plank flooring in the basement of my house. It looks amazing and has a texture to it. I put a sheet of 6 mil plastic underneath the flooring.

The flooring I bought is rated for 35 degrees f. I have no idea what would happen to it below those temps, but since you’re in upstate ny, it is something to keep in mind.
Racer12
Explorer
Mar 25, 2019
I have a 2011 Cedar Creek and we ordered it with 12 inch by 12 inch vinyl tiles. I have had a couple of them replaced due to damage (droping things), other than that no problems and I live in northern Minnesota
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Mar 25, 2019
I wouldn't try to put sheet material down myself. IIRC the mfr puts that down before the base cabinets,etc. are installed, for a reason.
bumpy
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Mar 25, 2019
Glue down "LVT" (luxury vinyl tile) is the way to go. Not floating or snap together. Easy to lift one and replace if damaged. Installed in many DentalClinics over the years. I have it in current DRV.
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Mar 26, 2019
The LVT is glued to a plywood substrate, NO gapping is required.