Walaby wrote:
Besides, I don't run my fridge on propane when Im hooked up to electric, so I don't have to worry about "losing the fridge". My HW heater is on electric too, so no loss there. If you need to keep the trailer components running, take the tank that is NOT supplying the trailer components at the time.
If you lose campsite power you
will want to run your fridge and water heater on gas, in fact if that power is even suspect you'd want to disconnect entirely until you're sure that 120 vac source power isn't failing in any way, especially if (like most) you're not using any sort of surge or electrical management system to help protect the trailer's electrical system. No way would I set myself up for a failure like this, relying on shore power to be there
all the time. As far as your earlier comment about not needing anything else if you simply remove one of the trailer's tanks for the purpose of running your BBQ the answer is of course you do, you still need a hose of some length to run from the tank to the grill ... so some would just prefer to leave the tank where it is and use a longer hose to reach the grill. For those who already have a low pressure fitting on the side of their trailer it's understandable why they'd prefer to make use of it by having a hose designed for the purpose running out from that feed to a grill like a Weber Q with the regulator removed. If I too had that feed I'd probably make use of it as well but as it is my particular unit isn't equipped with a low pressure feed like this and for me it's not worth investing in installing one, ergo the reason I just feed my Q with a easy to carry, easy to store 5 lb tank that I may have to re-fill just once during the season.
For me that's hands down simpler than fooling around with the trailer tanks ... or as you say, easy peezy. ;)