4 season package?

Once upon a time, as in before we lost several quality rv’ manufactures with the market dive in the late 2000’s......there were a few “true” 4 season rv’s. In fact 2 or 3 had a written guarantee down to -20 F.

These were heavy, expensive units. Quality comes with a price, and the majority of the American buying public wanted light and inexpensive. Most manufacturers were happy to oblige!

There are a few pretty good units available today.....but they will be heavier and more expensive.

Thicker sidewalls with higher r value insulation, dual pane windows, higher basement and attic r value insulation, well insulated end caps, vented attic, enclosed, forced air heated underbelly with all tanks, lines, dump valves enclosed within the insulated/heated underbelly, 3/4” to 1” thick storage bay doors, tanks and dump valves/lines heat traced, are just some of the things that you should look for!

As many have stated.....most manufacturers use 4-Season as a marketing ploy! They may all be 4-season.....provided you spend the 4 seasons in the Florida Keys! memtb

True four season campers should have double pane windows. Double pane adds more weight but will reduce outside noise.
If you press your finger against the outside glass while looking at it from the inside, you should be able to see if it is single or double pane.

Mostly a marketing gimmick. Many put on a sticker claiming to have an Artic or Polar package. Many put heater pads under the holding tanks. The true value of a 4-season trailer is in dual pane windows, radiant heat barrier, better insulation in the walls and ceiling, a heated basement.

I would hardly consider a Montanna a 4-seson trailer.

Ken

Advertized 4 season unit can vary widely depending on year models...brands...models within a brand...other.
My current old '97 was advertised as a 4 season unit...but it was a long way from units with say Arctic packs. This trailers black/grey tanks were not enclosed but were advertised as heated.
LOL....in this case the mfg had chopped a hole in the floor over the tank so it could receive heated air from the trailer. The tank has a plastic shroud around it but the shroud has no top. Its a joke. I plugged the holes and had heat pads on the bottom of the tanks and then enclosed the tanks with exterior grade expanding foam.
This unit also had R7 walls/floors and roof insulation values and single pane windows.

I'm sure others can tell you about their brand/year model units 4 season stacks up.

Mine is rated 4-season, and I'll mention a few things easily noticed.

It was surprisingly quiet inside, compared to previous trailers.

Enclosed and insulated underbelly, with heated tank and valve area. My cupboard waterlines are followed and next to heat ducting, that runs through the cupboards below the sink. Many say "leave cupboards open, so lines don't freeze", but in my trailer, closing cupboard doors, keeps lines warmer.

My underfloor waterlines, as well as the water pump, have heat ducting following them. My tank area, and basement is heated, with a smaller open duct, as well as ducting heading to near shower, and bedroom.

Of course, all of the above, means running the furnace when below freezing temps. I still use a small electric heater, when on shore power, and temps near freezing. Temps in the 20s F, just use furnace.

My trailer heats easily, 35K btu furnace, cools easily, single 15K AC.

Jerry

When camping, the colder it gets the more attention an RV needs regardless of manufacturer claims.

Google heartlandrvs.com and look for a 2018 sales brochure.

Yes, go to Yellowstone National Park in January. Then let us know what you think.

Seriously, "4 season"rating seems to be a marketing ploy, much like "The world's best hamburger." Some may have extra insulation in the tanks area, some have heat strips, other minor additions to imply warmth in the winter.

Let's face it....if they were truly 4 season we would be camping and parks would be open then.