5th wheel hitch selection help
Background: I have not purchased a truck or a toy hauler (5th wheel) yet. I probably have about 4 more months before we purchase both of those but I am wanting to do all my research now so I know eve...
Forum Discussion
Lucky,
Sorry, I was busy last night so didn't get back to discussing using the landing gear to remove the hitch from the truck.
I can only talk about hitches that fit on standard cross-bed rails. I use a Reese 16K slider even though my current truck is a long bed. (That is another discussion.)
The hitch is locked to the rails with four pins, identical to the pin that holds a bumper pull drawbar in the receiver. When the trailer is in its storage location, chock the wheels and start the landing gear down like you were going to unhitch. Pull the clip pins and remove the locking pins from the legs of the hitch without opening the jaws. The kingpin of the trailer and the hitch are still locked together.
Extend the landing gear farther and the kingpin will lift the entire hitch assembly straight up. As soon as the four locking tabs at the bottom of the legs are clear of the rails, drive the truck out from under the hitch. (Note that you may need a helper to hold the hitch assembly level. If one corner tips down the tab can snag on the rails.)
At this point I run the nose of the trailer back down to level and set the rear stabilizers. My trailer is stored, however, in my back yard with 50Amp power hooked up and we do occasionally turn the A/C and fridge on during storage.
Reese hitches have a locking clamp that keeps the release lever from being activated. I keep a padlock on the clamp so there is no chance of anyone pulling the lever and dropping a 180 pound hitch assembly of their feet (or the dog).
If you have any questions about this, PM me.
A
Sorry, I was busy last night so didn't get back to discussing using the landing gear to remove the hitch from the truck.
I can only talk about hitches that fit on standard cross-bed rails. I use a Reese 16K slider even though my current truck is a long bed. (That is another discussion.)
The hitch is locked to the rails with four pins, identical to the pin that holds a bumper pull drawbar in the receiver. When the trailer is in its storage location, chock the wheels and start the landing gear down like you were going to unhitch. Pull the clip pins and remove the locking pins from the legs of the hitch without opening the jaws. The kingpin of the trailer and the hitch are still locked together.
Extend the landing gear farther and the kingpin will lift the entire hitch assembly straight up. As soon as the four locking tabs at the bottom of the legs are clear of the rails, drive the truck out from under the hitch. (Note that you may need a helper to hold the hitch assembly level. If one corner tips down the tab can snag on the rails.)
At this point I run the nose of the trailer back down to level and set the rear stabilizers. My trailer is stored, however, in my back yard with 50Amp power hooked up and we do occasionally turn the A/C and fridge on during storage.
Reese hitches have a locking clamp that keeps the release lever from being activated. I keep a padlock on the clamp so there is no chance of anyone pulling the lever and dropping a 180 pound hitch assembly of their feet (or the dog).
If you have any questions about this, PM me.
A
