5th wheel popped out of hitch

That's a good idea Russ. I might add that to my to do list.

sayoung wrote:
The proper way to hook. Up my 16k Reese is with the handle in closed/locked position and alloe kingpin to "push open" the jaws and the springs close jaws around pin.you need to watch that handle extends out then snaps back fully closed.I then do a pull test.I also always latch safety catch.

Sounds like the same method I use, I do the pull test as soon as the jaws shut behind the pin.
I have in the past towed our 5er 20+ miles with the latch unlocked. It included freeway, country roads, railroad crossings stop and go, and tight turns NO DROP!

I have made one modification that I would suggest to others, it is a simple ten minute fix that takes the raised Handel out of the picture! I just cut the handle after the upturn.

when I experienced an un-latching with my reese 15K round tube slider it was backing down a steep incline, at a 30deg turn and I had the safety latch UNLATCHED and yes the jaws opened. I remember unlocking my padlock....but not flipping up the latch that prevents the handle from being pulled. I have no idea about what the washers are you are talking about.

Did he hitch it back up and tow it back to the campsite? I'd remove the hitch head, turn it over and check the C clips and linkages in case something is broken or missing. I do this a couple of times a year to check and lube all pivot points with a little Mobil-1 motor oil. If you contact Reese, they might even send you a replacement and ask that you send them the head in question. That's a big "might" of an assumption on my part but if I was sure it wasn't an oops on my part, and I've made plenty, I would contact them.

It was latched and we did pull test. We were actually on vacation. My husband went to go dump. He pulled out of our site drove about A quarter of a mile, two turns waited in line to dump when they person in front if him dumped his black tank all over. My husband decided to go to the other dump site turned left probably went another 1/8 of a mile stopped at the stop signed started turning left solely and watched it popped out. He checked everything and since I am learning to do everything I go through all the stages.

I don't think the pin box makes any contact. This wasn't our first time out. We bought a brand new trailer last year we have been put approximately 20 times

Old-Biscuit wrote:

Pholman90 wrote:
No. We double checked it and the pin was in the hitch

Then hitch was NOT latched!

Didn't do a 'pull test' did you??

On Edit:

Found a statement in Reese Installation Sheet


WARNING:
Do Not use this hitch for towing a trailer with a pin box that could come into contact with or interfere with the latch for the hitch handle when turning! (See Fig. 6)
If the pin box contacts the hitch handle or its latch when turning, the trailer may become unhitched

When turning truck to right does front left area of your pin box make any contact with hitch latch/handle????

Reese Instructions

Pg. 4

Also check out Warning on PG. 5

X1---"Do the Brake test after you hook up" the only real way to tell if your trailer is securely hitched properly:):):)

I am not saying there is a problem with ALL REESE hitches just the style shown above. I believe Valley has a similar model also and I have seen those with bed damage too.

Pholman90 wrote:
No. We double checked it and the pin was in the hitch

Just curious-
When you hooked up, did you set the trailer plate/hitch slightly lower than the truck hitch so that it actually slides up onto the truck hitch?

Another Reese trying to defie gravity.

The proper way to hook. Up my 16k Reese is with the handle in closed/locked position and alloe kingpin to "push open" the jaws and the springs close jaws around pin.you need to watch that handle extends out then snaps back fully closed.I then do a pull test.I also always latch safety catch.