6 Point lippert but still shakes

I use the king pin tri-pod to keep from hitting the box with my head, and it stops some of the front shake. What I found to stop the most shake is to use a slide out stabilizer under the frame at the rear of the rig (only takes one).
My results my money. Yours my be different Try if you want.

I had a fair amount of side to side movement in the bedroom because of the type of front hydraulic cylinders they used. They are in a sleeve that allows movement. The back 4 stab hacks are solid. This made the whole RV much more stable.

We also have a front living room with our 6point system. Our Alpine has a huge rear overhang and with the bed in the rear I would shake the trailer with rolling over in my sleep. Our fix was installing a scissor jack on under the rear hitch. This has fixed our issues and we travel with two teenage boys and 70lbs dog.

Placement of the rear jacks makes a lot of difference. With my TH they are at the back, not just behind the rear wheels and when I level it (I do have 6"x8" blocks) and raise slightly to start unloading the tires I have very little wiggle. It also helps I have Sailun G rated tires with steel plies. When I got them I told the DW air was an option they are so stiff.

aruba5er wrote:
The ONLY way to quit shaking is to get the tires off the ground. And them only if you don't get it too high that the lift cylinders or tubes are extended too high. Better that you get used to it and accept the fact that you are not in a stick and brick home with a solid foundation:

I will respectfully disagree with you on that notion.
With JT's wheels on the ground and rock solid.

GoPackGo wrote:
I've been using the 6-way system for 3 years now and have discovered a few things:

1. You definitely do want to get the weight off the wheels. Fow whatever reason, I do not have a problem that way.

2. I have discovered that you need to put some large, wide supports under the jacks or they will gradually work their way down into grass, dirt, rock, gravel, etc. - basically anything that is not cement, which then allows for some 'wiggle' room, especially after a rain. I have several sets of wide plastic jack supports that I use, but I'm sure wood is fine too. I generally have 2 under each foot.

If you have a problem with #1 above, then you can follow the directions in the owner's brochure and do a manual reset that the system will remember. Just manually level it at a high enough point so that the weight is unloaded from the tires and you'll be good to go. I would not go any higher then needed - you don't want to use up any more jack travel then necessary.

Note that travel is limited with these jacks. That's why I carry several sets of plastic blocks - sometimes needed when on a really irregular surface.

I do think these things are the best thing since sliced bread. The first time you need to set up or take down in the rain, you'll be the envy of the neighborhood.

Also, the further the jack has to go down to reach the ground, the longer a "lever" there is, so any small movement of the coach is more easily transferred to the ground. Blocks under the footpads all around will help shorten the legs and reduce jiggle. If it works for the landing legs, it'll work for the rest. FWIW, I'll bet if you get down and look at the jacks while set up, then have someone move around inside, you'll see a surprising amount of flex going on, from the legs all the way up to the mounting points, and including the frame.

Lyle

The ONLY way to quit shaking is to get the tires off the ground. And them only if you don't get it too high that the lift cylinders or tubes are extended too high. Better that you get used to it and accept the fact that you are not in a stick and brick home with a solid foundation:

I've been using the 6-way system for 3 years now and have discovered a few things:

1. You definitely do want to get the weight off the wheels. Fow whatever reason, I do not have a problem that way.

2. I have discovered that you need to put some large, wide supports under the jacks or they will gradually work their way down into grass, dirt, rock, gravel, etc. - basically anything that is not cement, which then allows for some 'wiggle' room, especially after a rain. I have several sets of wide plastic jack supports that I use, but I'm sure wood is fine too. I generally have 2 under each foot.

If you have a problem with #1 above, then you can follow the directions in the owner's brochure and do a manual reset that the system will remember. Just manually level it at a high enough point so that the weight is unloaded from the tires and you'll be good to go. I would not go any higher then needed - you don't want to use up any more jack travel then necessary.

Note that travel is limited with these jacks. That's why I carry several sets of plastic blocks - sometimes needed when on a really irregular surface.

I do think these things are the best thing since sliced bread. The first time you need to set up or take down in the rain, you'll be the envy of the neighborhood.

We have the BigFoot leveling system with JT stabilizers on the front and a set of electric stabilizers on the rear. Even the 6 pt leveling system seem to have the rear levelers right behind the rear tire and that leaves lots of the 5th wheel without any support from the back of the tires to the rear cap. We find that the rear stabilizers are very helpful. Still we cannot eliminate all the motion but it does make it much better.

rhagfo wrote:
I don't have the leveling system, but did add JT's and all I can say is WOW!
We had a good amount of giggle even with a pin box tripod. We have been 28 days on a gravel pad a just starting to notice a bit of movement, we head out in about 5 days, may tighten tonight. They were on sale at CW online for less than $200, some of the best money spent.

People were "giggling" =because= you had the tripod. :B:B:B:B

Lyle