Hi All,My biggest regret was not having ordered my Cougar High Country 299RKS with 50 AMP service. But it is what it is. I really want to add an A/C unit in the bedroom. I realize I wouldn't be able to run both units through the house electrical system but I was interested to hear options and opinions for getting power to it. Also, this unit did not come with ceiling vent in the bedroom at all so the install would be more complex than just a drop in. Is that a big problem or something a competent RV service center can handle?We've had our 5er for 2 1/2 years now, towed it about 6,000 miles and it has been trouble free essentially. Even still running the original tires (I hope I just didn't put a curse on myself). I have 1 more year to work and our plan is a tour of the US next summer so we want to get a number of things done before then. I just changed to a Mor-Ryde pin box that I love. I am changing out my wheels to 16" and going with a better tire (lot's of good reading here on that). I will be shopping for a good tire pressure monitoring system too. I am also adding an invertor and switching to 4 - 6 volt batteries from our 2 - 12 volt system. And, we may add a satellite dish.Any input or advice, especially regarding my A/C question, will be greatly appreciated.

Not a big deal to cut a hole in the roof for the new AC. You may want to add a separate 20 amp circuit so the new AC will run off the outlet in the post and not add to your 30A draw.

Even if you turned everything off (All circuit breakers) except the two air conditioners I still don't think it run in a 30AMP suystem. They would probably trip their breaker the first time one unit recycles...Doing what the other post said would be your best bet. Or only install a 9000BTU or less for the bedroom. My bedroom has the fantastic fan in it which has the same 14-inch square roof cutout for the air conditioner. Personally I would rather have the fantastic fan... I really don't think I would like laying directly under the air conditioner trying to get some sleep.They have some pretty nifty portable air conditioners on the market now that sit in a corner in the various sizes and have round ducts thru the trailer outside walls... Prices are not that much different from the roof mounted unit and a bunch easier to install... Might want to check out one of those.just some thoughtsRoy Ken

I think it may be more difficult then just cutting a hole in the roof. If it wasn't set up for another AC or even a fan, then there likely isn't any bracing to support an AC. Can't just plop something that heavy on the roof without any framing to support it.

redsb3 wrote:I think it may be more difficult then just cutting a hole in the roof. If it wasn't set up for another AC or even a fan, then there likely isn't any bracing to support an AC. Can't just plop something that heavy on the roof without any framing to support it.I agree and have an email into Keystone with my VIN to see if they can tell me if it has the required support. The units came with a 50 amp option which I can only imagine was to support a second A/C. I can't imagine they don't build the frames all the same so I'm hopeful but we'll see.

A portable unit may work depending on your space. You might be able to build in a small window unit depending on if you have a cabinet you want to give up space in and a way to vent hot air out and drain. Did this mod years ago in a popup, Installed under dinette, flush with the front, Cut whole in camper side and installed a metal hinged refer vent on the out side, then used sheet metal to seal it to vent out the hot air thru new vent, whole was made in the floor for the drain.

Adding a BR A/C in 30 AMP Trailer | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

avvidclif1
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
Mine is already 50A and has the bedroom a/c. The only thing on one side of the 50a circuit is the bedroom a/c. Everything else is on the main or what would be the main in a 30a circuit.

It sounds like the dealer is going to add another breaker to the box and wire the a/c to it and then change to cord to 50a. As long as he changes the wiring from the plug to the breaker box to handle the 50a service that would seem to me to be the way to go.

I had mine installed by my dealer, it cost around $1100 with most of that being the a/c. I thought about doing it myself (the vent hole and wiring was there) and then thought about manhandling a 100lb plus a/c up to the roof and mounting it. Naw, I let the dealer do it.
REWahoo
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
Gotcha...
Poppy_s_5th_Whe
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
REWahoo wrote:
No rewiring or converter issues, my 20 amp circuit is in addition to and entirely separate from the original 30 amp service. It has a separate incoming plug, breaker box and wiring to the AC unit. I have two 30 amp cords, one I plug into the 30 amp service at the campground, the other (for the second AC) I use an adapter and plug into a the 20 amp service.

Check out the link I included in my first post showing how one guy did it (one of the posts on that thread has a link to a bunch of photos of his install).

I did check out the other thread you linked me to. Great info but I was referring to Oaklevel's post. He says he had his trailer converted to 50 amp. My plan was to do exactly as you (and the link you provided) suggested and adding a separate 20 amp service but converting the whole trailer to 50 amp seems the way to go IF that's really what Oaklevel means.
REWahoo
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
Poppy's 5th Wheel wrote:

Wow, I don't think that's too bad really. I didn't know you could literally change from a 30 amp to 50 amp service? Wouldn't the entire trailer need to be rewired? Did they change out the convertor and everything?

No rewiring or converter issues, my 20 amp circuit is in addition to and entirely separate from the original 30 amp service. It has a separate incoming plug, breaker box and wiring to the AC unit. I have two 30 amp cords, one I plug into the 30 amp service at the campground, the other (for the second AC) I use an adapter and plug into a the 20 amp service.

Check out the link I included in my first post showing how one guy did it (one of the posts on that thread has a link to a bunch of photos of his install).
Poppy_s_5th_Whe
Explorer
Jul 03, 2013
REWahoo wrote:
Oaklevel wrote:
I am thinking about it also our dealer gave me a quote to cut the hole in the roof ,provide & install the AC, run the wiring and upgrade our service to 50 AMP for $1500.......

That sounds like it is in the ballpark. Two years ago my dealer charged $1400 to install a second unit in the bedroom vent opening and add a separate 20 amp circuit. The price included a 30 amp cord to power the separate circuit.

Wow, I don't think that's too bad really. I didn't know you could literally change from a 30 amp to 50 amp service? Wouldn't the entire trailer need to be rewired? Did they change out the convertor and everything? Even if they just provided me with the second cord to plug into a 20 amp outlet I would be happy. I really need to get an actual quote instead of just thinking about it. If the trailer had a roof vent I would consider installing it myself but I can't bring myself to cut a hole in the roof.

Thanks for all the information you all have provided so far. It's very helpful.
REWahoo
Explorer
Jul 02, 2013
Oaklevel wrote:
I am thinking about it also our dealer gave me a quote to cut the hole in the roof ,provide & install the AC, run the wiring and upgrade our service to 50 AMP for $1500.......

That sounds like it is in the ballpark. Two years ago my dealer charged $1400 to install a second unit in the bedroom vent opening and add a separate 20 amp circuit. The price included a 30 amp cord to power the separate circuit.
Oaklevel
Explorer
Jul 02, 2013
I am thinking about it also our dealer gave me a quote to cut the hole in the roof ,provide & install the AC, run the wiring and upgrade our service to 50 AMP for $1500.......
htowners
Explorer
Jul 02, 2013
Saw this thread and bookmarked as if I ever want to go a 2nd AC would probably be the best approach.
GMT830
Explorer
Jul 02, 2013
30 amp service should support two ACs. But not much else. Last weekend we ran the AC non stop along with the fridge on elec and the elec hot water. Everything was fine till we ran the portable heater on the 1000 watt setting and popped the pole breaker. The plug was a tad warm.
REWahoo
Explorer
Jul 02, 2013
ScottG wrote:
Not a big deal to cut a hole in the roof for the new AC. You may want to add a separate 20 amp circuit so the new AC will run off the outlet in the post and not add to your 30A draw.

I don't know about the difficulty of cutting a hole and reinforcing around it to support a second AC, but I do agree you need a separate 20 amp circuit. That is by far the easiest way to accomplish what you are trying to do - other than going with a portable unit.

I have (had) a single AC unit on a 30amp trailer. I added a second unit in the bedroom (had a vent opening I could use) and ran a separate 20 amp circuit to power the second AC - I also added a wall plug on the circuit as well. It is located in the bedroom and allows a second electric heater in the winter or a hair dryer anytime. Very handy.

Here is a thread discussing adding a second ac on a 30 amp RV: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24889035/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm