Forum Discussion

Poppy_s_5th_Whe's avatar
Jul 02, 2013

Adding a BR A/C in 30 AMP Trailer

Hi All,

My biggest regret was not having ordered my Cougar High Country 299RKS with 50 AMP service. But it is what it is. I really want to add an A/C unit in the bedroom. I realize I wouldn't be able to run both units through the house electrical system but I was interested to hear options and opinions for getting power to it.

Also, this unit did not come with ceiling vent in the bedroom at all so the install would be more complex than just a drop in. Is that a big problem or something a competent RV service center can handle?

We've had our 5er for 2 1/2 years now, towed it about 6,000 miles and it has been trouble free essentially. Even still running the original tires (I hope I just didn't put a curse on myself). I have 1 more year to work and our plan is a tour of the US next summer so we want to get a number of things done before then. I just changed to a Mor-Ryde pin box that I love. I am changing out my wheels to 16" and going with a better tire (lot's of good reading here on that). I will be shopping for a good tire pressure monitoring system too. I am also adding an invertor and switching to 4 - 6 volt batteries from our 2 - 12 volt system. And, we may add a satellite dish.

Any input or advice, especially regarding my A/C question, will be greatly appreciated.

16 Replies

  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    I was thinking of these type of portable units where only a small hole goes thru the sides of the trailer...




    There was a real nice post on here just last week about installing one in the corner...

    Roy Ken
  • A portable unit may work depending on your space. You might be able to build in a small window unit depending on if you have a cabinet you want to give up space in and a way to vent hot air out and drain. Did this mod years ago in a popup, Installed under dinette, flush with the front, Cut whole in camper side and installed a metal hinged refer vent on the out side, then used sheet metal to seal it to vent out the hot air thru new vent, whole was made in the floor for the drain.
  • redsb3 wrote:
    I think it may be more difficult then just cutting a hole in the roof. If it wasn't set up for another AC or even a fan, then there likely isn't any bracing to support an AC. Can't just plop something that heavy on the roof without any framing to support it.


    I agree and have an email into Keystone with my VIN to see if they can tell me if it has the required support. The units came with a 50 amp option which I can only imagine was to support a second A/C. I can't imagine they don't build the frames all the same so I'm hopeful but we'll see.
  • I think it may be more difficult then just cutting a hole in the roof. If it wasn't set up for another AC or even a fan, then there likely isn't any bracing to support an AC. Can't just plop something that heavy on the roof without any framing to support it.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    Even if you turned everything off (All circuit breakers) except the two air conditioners I still don't think it run in a 30AMP suystem. They would probably trip their breaker the first time one unit recycles...

    Doing what the other post said would be your best bet. Or only install a 9000BTU or less for the bedroom. My bedroom has the fantastic fan in it which has the same 14-inch square roof cutout for the air conditioner. Personally I would rather have the fantastic fan... I really don't think I would like laying directly under the air conditioner trying to get some sleep.

    They have some pretty nifty portable air conditioners on the market now that sit in a corner in the various sizes and have round ducts thru the trailer outside walls... Prices are not that much different from the roof mounted unit and a bunch easier to install... Might want to check out one of those.

    just some thoughts
    Roy Ken
  • Not a big deal to cut a hole in the roof for the new AC. You may want to add a separate 20 amp circuit so the new AC will run off the outlet in the post and not add to your 30A draw.