adding second shore power receptacle

relaxin wrote:
you would need a transfer switch so when one is plugged in the other does not become live and dangerious.

or you could rewire and relocate it completely

"NO" - to the first statement.

"YES" - to the second. Takes care of the first, AND - besides being closer to the truck - puts the power cord closer to most pedestals!
However, wouldn't call it a "rewire"!
Requires one cut (of the feed to the shore power) and adding appropriate connectors.

NO possibility of back-feed, etc. NO transfer switch req'd!..:W

The power center for my 5th is in a *front* compartment.
As with most 5ers, the shore-power connection is at the *rear*.
Most pedestals are approx opposite the *center* of the RV.

*If* the OP has a 50amp -as I do- that means dragging the "anaconda"
around every time to hook up (if you want 50amp service)..:(

~

Solution - *Manual* Transfer Switch, with "options":
Wired in a male plug on a short pig tail from the power center.
Note: Only *one* male plug.
It can be connected to any *one* of:
The female on the previous wiring to the rear shore power connection.
The female on the 12V powered cord reel with 50 amp cord.
The female (w/adapter) on a 30amp cord for gen in the pickup bed.
(or use the 50amp cord w/adapter)

I also can place my PI EMS between any of the above.

The powered cord reel is on the "pedestal side" inside the compt on that side - with a small "door" for the cord when the compt is closed.
Pull out the amount of cord required, push button to retract.

Best gadget or gizmo I ever purchased! Pricey - but it can go to my next RV if I desire..:C

~

BTW -on edit:
The above is just a variation of the diagram in Ken Lenger's blog for his "on-board" generator installation.

Here

~

Transfer switches are cheap and easy and proper way. Someone suggested an enclosed knife switch - which is essentially what a transfer switch is.

I prefer to leave the knife switch for Frankenstein and Egor, I like the automatic type. :B

What is nice about electricity is that it works great when wired properly and according to all safety codes. Jeery (spel?) rigging your wiring to accomplish a generator setup between your RV and TV is just asking for trouble. A few folks above have already suggested that the correct and safe way to do it is with a transfer switch.

Don't Jeery (spel?) rig it, do it right and use a transfer switch. It’s more expensive but the safest way to go.

I should have explained a little better. I put a 5" square box and a regular 30 receptacle in the cord storage area. I plug the trailer cord in that. so..... 30 amp twist lock to 5" box with reg 30 amp receptacle.

Can you install a transfer switch in the front underbelly/storage area? The one under the kingpin. If so, then thread a 30A cable thru the same location the 7-wire (pig-tail) comes thru. Leave about 4-5 foot of lead and attach the male end to fit your generator. Wire into the transfer switch and your good to go, Gen-set stays in the bed, or on the ground if you want. Did that to my last Cedar Creek, about a hours worth of work.

TakingThe5th wrote:

Bumpyroad wrote:

TakingThe5th wrote:
RoyB's comments reminded me of a prior Class C which had a built-in generator. The shore power compartment which held the cord also had a female receptacle which was wired to the generator. The cord was plugged into this receptacle when stowed and you were ready for generator use. If you wanted shore power you simply unplugged and moved the plug to the pedestal. A simple and elegant solution that you might be able to use.

that was the arrangement on my first motor home, a flair. the best non-fail system IMHO. the only disadvantage would be if the campground electricity went out at night in a rainstorm, I would have to go out, unplug from the post and plug it in.
bumpy

... and only if you needed the air conditioner. Most everything else was 12 volt and could wait until morning.

you are correct.
bumpy

Bumpyroad wrote:

TakingThe5th wrote:
RoyB's comments reminded me of a prior Class C which had a built-in generator. The shore power compartment which held the cord also had a female receptacle which was wired to the generator. The cord was plugged into this receptacle when stowed and you were ready for generator use. If you wanted shore power you simply unplugged and moved the plug to the pedestal. A simple and elegant solution that you might be able to use.

that was the arrangement on my first motor home, a flair. the best non-fail system IMHO. the only disadvantage would be if the campground electricity went out at night in a rainstorm, I would have to go out, unplug from the post and plug it in.
bumpy

... and only if you needed the air conditioner. Most everything else was 12 volt and could wait until morning.

TakingThe5th wrote:
RoyB's comments reminded me of a prior Class C which had a built-in generator. The shore power compartment which held the cord also had a female receptacle which was wired to the generator. The cord was plugged into this receptacle when stowed and you were ready for generator use. If you wanted shore power you simply unplugged and moved the plug to the pedestal. A simple and elegant solution that you might be able to use.

that was the arrangement on my first motor home, a flair. the best non-fail system IMHO. the only disadvantage would be if the campground electricity went out at night in a rainstorm, I would have to go out, unplug from the post and plug it in.
bumpy

Our Place wrote:
I added a second plug on my Coachman and put a small breaker box in the front compartment with 2 30amp breakers in it, wired each plug to it's own breaker and can select which ever plug I need. The front plug it on the pinbox for using genny in the truck bed.

I also added a second 50A twist lock receptacle at the front of our 5'vr.
Installed a 125A subpanel in basement compartment with two 50A double pole circuit breakers mechanically interlocked. Only one breaker can be closed at a time.

Gen in truck bed can be plugged into front, OEM power cord can be plugged into either front or rear receptacles.

Been using it for 6 yrs. And it was not very expensive.

Far from an electrical genius, but wouldn't the OP just need a fused or enclosed manual knife switch type disconnect to isolate the existing shore connection from it's power center connection in the RV when he's running the generator? A transfer switch would be appropriate if the generator was permanently installed/wired in the trailer. That said, I would think relocating the shore connection (though probably aggravating and time consuming) to/toward the front of the trailer would be the safer option, no worries about back feeding power.