I am planning to set my spring ends on my FW to the lower holes in the brackets.I need to raise a little to off set a slightly nose high.I think I can get this job done by myself, but I would sure appreciate some tips and how to do, from you people that have done this before.Thanks for any ideas that will make this task easier,Jerry

Its not easy believe me. Best to support the trailer by the frame then remove wheels and using 4 jacks take the shackle bolts out and drop everything at once. You really should change out the junk plastic bushings for oilite bearings at the same time.

In my case (replacing a broken spring) I had to jack up the trailer, support both sides. Pull the wheels off. And then remove the U-bolts on the axle to relieve the pressure on the leaf springs. Then you could unbolt the springs. You can do one side at a time but it's easier to do both. You'll probably want to support the loose axle with some blocks too. I'd replace the U-bolts when you are at it and look into installing wetbolts in the springs but those are optional.

MFL, I lowered may axles last yr. I have some pics that I can send if you PM me with a email address. I jacked mine up and used a combination of jacks, cribbing and jack stands to support the rig. I was replacing the axles at the time. I installed everything new from the springs to the lug nuts. I used "Never Fail Bushings" but can't give any feed back other than the install went easy. I used a bottle jack under the axle as needed to help align the holes. Using a drift pin is helpful in aligning the holes also.

MFL wrote:I am planning to set my spring ends on my FW to the lower holes in the brackets.I need to raise a little to off set a slightly nose high.I think I can get this job done by myself, but I would sure appreciate some tips and how to do, from you people that have done this before.Thanks for any ideas that will make this task easier,JerryMine has 3 holes in the brackets...I would think, if you were going to RAISE the 5er up, you would use hole higher up on the bracket, that would raise the 5er, if you use lower holes, it will lower the unit, wouldn't it?

Jim.Your thinking back words. You want the axles farther away from the trailers frame not closer. Don't worry I had trouble with concept too

Adjusting springs to lower holes? | Good Sam Community

24 Replies

Slownsy
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
You can lower only one end or both if holes there my FW only had to in centre so I gained. 1 inch.
jaycocamprs
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
MFL wrote:
My FW has the equa-flex suspension. I see no adjustment to raise or lower the equalizer. My spring end brackets have only two holes, the one the bolt is in, and one two inches lower.

I too, am doubtful that lowering the ends two inches, will actually raise the trailer two inches. I would just like to be as close to level as I can be, when towing.

Thanks,

Jerry

Both of the Jayco's I raised towed better after, less chucking. They both had Leland/Dexter frames, and had 3 holes at the ends and 2 at the equalizer. Sounds like you will gain about 1 inch
Allworth
Explorer II
Jul 15, 2013
Correct! One end provides half the distance. Simple geometry. You can draw it out using a straight line for the spring itself. The curve doesn't change anything.
MFL
Nomad II
Jul 15, 2013
My FW has the equa-flex suspension. I see no adjustment to raise or lower the equalizer. My spring end brackets have only two holes, the one the bolt is in, and one two inches lower.

I too, am doubtful that lowering the ends two inches, will actually raise the trailer two inches. I would just like to be as close to level as I can be, when towing.

Thanks,

Jerry
larry_barnhart
Explorer
Jul 15, 2013
Once you lower the middle hole and then decide to go to the bottom hole on the outside what happens at that time?
chevman
jaycocamprs
Explorer
Jul 14, 2013
If you only do one end of the spring, you only go up half the distance.
larry_barnhart
Explorer
Jul 14, 2013
We just lower one hole and maybe the center hole would need to be changed if you went to the lowest hole. Just what I thought in 2001 for ours.
chevman
Jim_n_Suzanne
Explorer
Jul 14, 2013
htowners wrote:
I did mine last year in about 2 hours, including gathering and putting away my tools.
I did 1 shackle at a time, with my 5th hitched to the truck. Slightly support the trailer near where you start, remove the 1st bolt. Use a socket or wrench on the bolt head, to prevent rounding the shackle hole. Once removed I jacked up that corner, used a drift to align the hole, then drove the bolt through, which drive the drift out. Do not seat the bolt by tightening, drive it with a mallet, or better yet a press, else you risk rounding the hole (experience speaking here).
I'm planning on repacging everything with wet bolts soon, but be careful with the nylon bushings, they are thin and easy to tear (just an observation fortunately not an experience). It's much easier with a helper, but I did mine solo. Air tools make it a lot easier, too. I used a 2 foot piece of 4x4 between the frame and jack to spread the load.
I've towed a few thousand miles since and no issues. I'm still a little nose high, but nothing the equalizer can't handle.

Good luck!
I did mine the same way but also put my landing gear down for a little extra safety
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Jul 14, 2013
Fulltimer50 wrote:
Dont forget that you have to lower the center equalizer part as well. You cant just lower the ends. Its a two man job.

My question is why "can't" you just lower the ends?
Fulltimer50
Explorer
Jul 14, 2013
Dont forget that you have to lower the center equalizer part as well. You cant just lower the ends. Its a two man job.