Forum Discussion

przao's avatar
przao
Explorer
Jul 21, 2014

Advice needed: how to keep a rig cooler...

... when it is large enough to require 50 amp service, but is only 30 amp with a single AC unit. It is really difficult to keep the inside of the rig comfortable.

We purchased a 2011 Rockwood 32-foot fiver (30 amp) that really needs a second A/C unit (however it is not wired for such). I should have become suspicious when I discovered that you needed to flip a switch between using the microwave or the electric fireplace (can't use both at the same time). Evidently, the rig is (in my opinion) over that should be sufficient for 30 amp service.

Our rig has a 12-foot super slide and we were thinking of adding mounts for an external shade to cover the broad side of the slide - when the sun hits it, the black metal frame heats so much that you can go inside and it is hot to the touch, acting like a heater. We would mount the roll-up shade when needed, and store it when not.

Bad idea?

Another thought - the A/C ducting is in the ceiling, and we notice that on a hot day, the air coming out of the registers is lukewarm. Evidently the A/C is doing nothing more than cooling the ceiling (or heating the air). Our thought is to close all the ceiling registers so all the cold air exits the ceiling unit directly into the rig. We tried it at home and it seemed to help.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

24 Replies

  • Some more ideas:
    - if you know it will be a hot day, get her real cold first thing in the morning. It often will hold a temperature once there but have a hard time dropping the temp.
    - If you won't be using the front sleeping area, close the door and the vent so it's cooling the critical living space but in the evening when the sun goes down, open it back up so it will cool the sleeping space.
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    We sometimes bring along a second window unit when our POPUP camping at an electric site is going to be extended length.

    There is only the two of us so the one tent bed area is free to use for other purposes and becomes our day time catch all area...

    We can setup the window unit and wrap the window flap material around the back part of the air conditioner unit and tape up with duct tape. This unit will plug into the 20AMP Service on the pedestal.

    The roofs of the RV TRAILERS are not very thick and parking under a shade is must for us. This sometimes hampers our HDTV reception when camping off the power grid...

    Surprising how another source of cool helps out. We too circulate the air inside the trailer with fans.

    You might want to do something similar but in your case pick up one of those PORTABLE AIR CONDITIONERS... They are pretty neat items. I have seen one in use in a TT trailer. All you need is a 20AMp service extension cord and an available window area to setup the exhaust panel.



    Roy Ken
  • Upgrade to 50 amp. Get a cord and an electrical box that supports 240 VAC and up to 6 relays plus a master on/off relay, wire the new cord to it so that you have two 120 vac bus bars working, put a 30 amp breaker on one side and wire that to your existing AC power distribution panel. That gives you your existing AC power setup with no changes. Put a 20 amp breaker on the other bus and wire that to your new AC unit. If you want to add more things or split off some outlets (like the microwave or the furnace) you can do that too, add them to the same bus as the new AC is on. Make sure the new electrical box does not bond neutral to ground.

    Alternatively install the new AC unit with a separate cord and plug it into the 20 amp outlet that is usually available on the power post in the campground.

    Brian
  • przao wrote:
    ... when it is large enough to require 50 amp service, but is only 30 amp with a single AC unit. It is really difficult to keep the inside of the rig comfortable.

    We purchased a 2011 Rockwood 32-foot fiver (30 amp) that really needs a second A/C unit (however it is not wired for such). I should have become suspicious when I discovered that you needed to flip a switch between using the microwave or the electric fireplace (can't use both at the same time). Evidently, the rig is (in my opinion) over that should be sufficient for 30 amp service.

    Our rig has a 12-foot super slide and we were thinking of adding mounts for an external shade to cover the broad side of the slide - when the sun hits it, the black metal frame heats so much that you can go inside and it is hot to the touch, acting like a heater. We would mount the roll-up shade when needed, and store it when not.

    Bad idea?

    Another thought - the A/C ducting is in the ceiling, and we notice that on a hot day, the air coming out of the registers is lukewarm. Evidently the A/C is doing nothing more than cooling the ceiling (or heating the air). Our thought is to close all the ceiling registers so all the cold air exits the ceiling unit directly into the rig. We tried it at home and it seemed to help.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated


    + Make sure all the ducts are properly sealed. Many people report poor seals from the factory.
    + Fans help to circulate the air; don't be afraid to get a couple.
    + Shade is your friend. Do what you can to maximize it.
    + You can get thermal films for the windows that will significantly help.
    + Many people do add a 2nd rooftop A/C, even though their FW isn't wired for it. They simply add a separate circuit solely for it and plug it into the CG pedestal. Alternatively, some have added a window unit or a portable A/C, especially if you're in a spot long-term.

    Lyle