Forum Discussion
Ron_Nielson
Aug 04, 2015Explorer
I have an Arctic Fox 29-5T with the same a/c unit that you do. When I first obtained my trailer, I found some problems with ducting (air from ducts was being dumped into the attic at the adjustable outlets in the ceiling) and with the divider between the intake and outlet, just under the big cover on the ceiling,there was a leak of cold air on the output side being sucked right back into the inlet side. So less cold air into the trailer. The cooling increased a noticeable amount with the repair of these problems. Of course, keep your intake filter washed, at least every two weeks
Some other things you can do: Block the vents, skylights, door window with insulated pillows or Reflectix. Our bedroom windows are also blocked with Reflectix. We also have double pane windows which are an absolute must; cooler in the hot temps; warmer when it is cold; and quieter all the time.
It goes without saying, that if the contents of your trailer is heat soaked, you're behind the 8-ball and it will take at least 24 hours to cool down. Much better to start your cooling way before the trailer gets hot. After it gets hot, you're just not going to be cool enough.
We just spent 8 days in hot humid Arkansas. When we were exposed to the sun, it was hard for the trailer to stay as cool as I would like. The last 4 days of our trip we had a space that was very shady and the trailer was pretty comfortable. But you can't always camp in the shade, so you probably need more cooling.
I believe that having a 15K unit would be more help than you think. I read a post from someone who just changed his 13.5k unit for a 15K unit and was very happy with the results. However, If he were in the hot humid south, or the scorching deserts of Arizona, he may not think so.
I believe the answer is to install an additional unit, perhaps a 9.2K unit in the bedroom. That is a substantial increase in the cooling capacity of the trailer. One other thing you MIGHT consider is using a portable air conditioner. A couple of days ago, Best buy had a 12K portable unit on sale for $309. It was about the size of a large dehumidifier, about 15"X15"X36". Needed to vent the exhaust air outside and either collect the condensate from the built-in container, or drain it via a hose/tube. For limited use, something like that might be just the ticket for you.
I am in the process of installing a 9.2K unit in the bedroom. Trying to figure out how to get my 20 amp circuit from the basement to the bedroom ceiling location, but no apparent path, yet.
Some other things you can do: Block the vents, skylights, door window with insulated pillows or Reflectix. Our bedroom windows are also blocked with Reflectix. We also have double pane windows which are an absolute must; cooler in the hot temps; warmer when it is cold; and quieter all the time.
It goes without saying, that if the contents of your trailer is heat soaked, you're behind the 8-ball and it will take at least 24 hours to cool down. Much better to start your cooling way before the trailer gets hot. After it gets hot, you're just not going to be cool enough.
We just spent 8 days in hot humid Arkansas. When we were exposed to the sun, it was hard for the trailer to stay as cool as I would like. The last 4 days of our trip we had a space that was very shady and the trailer was pretty comfortable. But you can't always camp in the shade, so you probably need more cooling.
I believe that having a 15K unit would be more help than you think. I read a post from someone who just changed his 13.5k unit for a 15K unit and was very happy with the results. However, If he were in the hot humid south, or the scorching deserts of Arizona, he may not think so.
I believe the answer is to install an additional unit, perhaps a 9.2K unit in the bedroom. That is a substantial increase in the cooling capacity of the trailer. One other thing you MIGHT consider is using a portable air conditioner. A couple of days ago, Best buy had a 12K portable unit on sale for $309. It was about the size of a large dehumidifier, about 15"X15"X36". Needed to vent the exhaust air outside and either collect the condensate from the built-in container, or drain it via a hose/tube. For limited use, something like that might be just the ticket for you.
I am in the process of installing a 9.2K unit in the bedroom. Trying to figure out how to get my 20 amp circuit from the basement to the bedroom ceiling location, but no apparent path, yet.
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