alignment

Alignments on my 15000# Escalade run $300-400 depending on the shop.

Vulcaneer wrote:
The alignment shop that I worked with charged $125 to put it on the rack to check the alignment. And if alignment was needed that 125 would be included the final price. But they stated that the max price would be $400. But also said that the normal out the door price is less than $350. And if it needs nothing, the base price of $125 would cover all the base measurements. About an hours work.

They found they needed to adjust the rear axle parallelism. And camber on the rear axle. Final cost was $320. They did a great job.

It may be true that some trailer manufacturers do NOT align. But probably because they jig up the frame and spring hangars for welding. And the jig is set up to make locating the spring hangars very accurately. Other manufacturers may buy the frames with the axles mounted. So they supplier does the mounting of the spring hangers, instead of the factory.

People do get trailers aligned all the time. I am surprised the Jayco rep would ever make such a statement, that they don't recommend alignments. What happens when springs get replaced, or axles get bent due to curb scuffing, or overloading, etc. If you tires indicate the axles are out of alignment, you gotta get it aligned. Or you're gunna buy a lot of tires.

BTDT X2 My first R V was a disaster right from the factory.

The alignment shop that I worked with charged $125 to put it on the rack to check the alignment. And if alignment was needed that 125 would be included the final price. But they stated that the max price would be $400. But also said that the normal out the door price is less than $350. And if it needs nothing, the base price of $125 would cover all the base measurements. About an hours work.

They found they needed to adjust the rear axle parallelism. And camber on the rear axle. Final cost was $320. They did a great job.

It may be true that some trailer manufacturers do NOT align. But probably because they jig up the frame and spring hangars for welding. And the jig is set up to make locating the spring hangars very accurately. Other manufacturers may buy the frames with the axles mounted. So they supplier does the mounting of the spring hangers, instead of the factory.

People do get trailers aligned all the time. I am surprised the Jayco rep would ever make such a statement, that they don't recommend alignments. What happens when springs get replaced, or axles get bent due to curb scuffing, or overloading, etc. If you tires indicate the axles are out of alignment, you gotta get it aligned. Or you're gunna buy a lot of tires.

Following up on my alignment. Also would Merv(hitnderoad) contact me so I can chat about the alignment place that was recommended.
Ok for my update: I called the recommended place and they sounded very good but want 400.00 to align my rig. Said they hate to bad mouth other shops but they must be missing something. (I am the one with 3 aligns in 3 years). Talked to a rep., from Jayco and he said that they don't align their trailers from the factory, they don't recommend getting them aligned by either saying in person or putting it in the owners manual. But the alignment place told me that when buying new or used the first thing you should do is get your trailer aligned! I don't know about all you fellow rv'ers but I think 400.00 for an alignment is very expensive. If you have any comments please feel free and if you have any other suggestions where I can go get alignment done (from Minnesota),let me know. One other thing, the rep from Jayco also said that most people don't ever get their trailers aligned.
Frustrated,
Bill

If you would like to correct the problem once and for all check Mor/yde IS independent suspension and contact Gary Wheeler. They are in Elkhart Indiana and the company is fantastic to deal with. If you plan on keeping the trailer. If you buy an new one get the IS suspension or if buying a Mobile Suite you can order as an option. This was the best money I spent so far and got Disc Brakes at the same time.

My old trailer was within weight specs but we replaced 2 x 6000 lb with 2 x 7000 lb axles because axles were bent in first year. Manufacturer (Dutchmen) paid for it.

I went through this last year with my trailer, finally gave up and just ordered new axles from Cerka Industries. Also went with 16" rims and Michelin LT tires. I did my annual trip to upstate NY and no tire wear this time.

Based on the information you have provided it appears you are within specs. So all I can offer is after three attempts your axles might just be worn out material wise. Maybe its time to upgrade to 7000 pound axles and get new 16 inch tires and wheels. Don't forget springs in the package. While your at it have new spring perches installed. It is possible the OE pitches are not installed properly. Which could be the root cause if your problems.

First of all thanks to all of you that have replied, I do appreciate it!!! I did not want to add all of the specifics before to try to keep it short and simple. But anyway, as donn0128 wrote :either the way I tow, do you mean do I curb jump? No I am very careful about going over curbs. I mean I don't go over them. I even take wider turns so that I don't stress the axles as much. Advice was from alignment shop. Also I have had my rig weighed at a CAT scale on the interstate and the results were: steer axle 4520 lb; drive axle 5360 lb; trailer axle 8120 lb; total weight 18000 lb. Now my GVWR 11800; my GAWR (each axle 5080 LB); I also had just my truck weighed with a the same things inside it and the truck bed which of course includes the hitch and that weight was 8790. We also weighed all the the contents we put in the coach, food, clothes, dishes, etc. plus under storage things and that weighed 1670 lbs. Now the weight at the CAT scale did include all the contents that I just mentioned. The sticker on the side of the RV says never to put more than 2950 Lbs of cargo inside the RV. Now I have read on some of these forums not to go right up to the limit with weights and I have held that true to my belief as well. So according to my calculations we are close to 1300 lbs below the recommendations. I also do not drive over 60 mph and when I come up to a railroad track I slow way down because you just don't know how good some of those crossings are. If there are any other questions I have not addressed please ask again. I really do appreciate everyone of you who take time to help people like me. Thanks again everyone!!!
Bill

I would be checking the alignment myself to get a better feel for the issue.
My alignment issue has so far been more bad springs and tires.

Front axle needs to be square to the pin and rear axles need to be sqaure to the front.

My thread on alignment issues
Your issues may well be different but I am thinking to do some homework and at least a second opinion.