Andersen Hitch

Not at all speaking for the Andersen.

The B&W system was designed several years ago when the bed steel was thicker. It is a designed system. B&W sent me spacers so the base will directly press down on the bottom of the bed corrugation that is attached to cross hat channel rails that sit on the frame. There are two that are centered 16" or so apart directly under the hitch.

On my 2011 RAM the support PC of the hitch sits directly over the low part of the bed corrugation. So with my heavy load the base actually had a small tweak in it. B&W sent the strips and a complete new base. I installed the plastic strips under the new base and have had no further tweaking of the base.

Since, they have redesigned the base and do provide strips that can be aligned under the base for full contact. It has gone from a 18-20K rating and from 4,500-5,000# tongue rating.

Bottom line times have changed and I am pushing the limits of their original design that was based on older bed corrugation locations. Now with the strips I have no problems.

The same head portion is used on all B&W hitches. The base and attachment system makes them rate differently.

The RAM truck for example has the 4 puck attachment system as an option. Install the RVK3600 and it will have a 25K tow and 6,250# pin rating.

So much non sense on this board.

I can only take it in small doses.

I've used both the Andersen gooseneck adapter and the B&W companion with zero problems and no failures nor do I ever expect there to be.

I'll let you know when my 12k pound trailer falls off and kills a school bus full of kids.

Me Again wrote:

glazier wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:
This Guy had his bed broke by the flex in his 18k Companion.

I am not crazy about the adaptor part of the Companion, Andersen, or the Bull Dog fifth wheel adaptor hitches...however, there are millions of miles and hundreds of thousands of users with these products.

You can even add the Curt X5 adaptor base rails to this bunch. These all distribute some weight to the bed floor.

I know they work, I don't think they are unsafe...at all... But the flex may damage some peoples bed to one degree or another...or it may not.


I don't hate the fifth wheel rails...if I were installing a fiver hitch...I would probably use the rails. They just seem more secure giving a firm wide base with four anchor points directly on the frame. My dad has the rails and I can't say the get in the way of using the bed. My best friend had rails in his last truck. I helped him load many things in and out of the bed. The rails never seemed to get in the way.

What I would probably do is install the fifth wheel rails and get a gooseneck plate for my rails if I ever needed to pull a gooseneck. I understand the desire for a "clean bed" but the reality is that most beds are not "clean" with or without the rails.

I know a man who owns a 2012 F250 XL and pulls a fiver.... He has fifth wheel rails...he also has a B&W turnover ball for his horse trailer...I kinda scratch my head on that one...I would do one or the other. $125 gooseneck plate for the rails would have solved the issue.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

The guy in the video stated he installed flat bar in the low part of the bed floor ( he had an older design). B&W provides a part that does just that on all Companion hitches now. With the flats of a bed supporting the weight directly over the bed channels, the Companion is a very strong secure hitch.

It still carries the pin weight load on the sheet metal bed floor. Not the truck's steel frame.

"STEP 3: INSTALL BASE
Note: If truck is equipped with a removable bed liner or mat. It should be removed or it must be cut to allow the base to directly connect with the bed. It is acceptable to install the RV base over a spray in bed liner.
Place the RV Base over the RV post so that the U-bolts wrap around the RV post. (PIC E) Then place a ½” washer (K) on the ½” x 3” draw-down bolt (D), insert the bolt through the hole in the top flange of the RV base and hand-thread the draw-down bolt into the RV Post. **NOTE: DO NOT lubricate the draw down bolt or U-bolts, the torque value is for dry threads. Square the RV base legs with the ribs of the truck bed and then tighten the ½” x 3” draw-down bolt to 40 ft-lb. Next, tighten the two u-bolts to 80 ft-lb. to secure the RV Base to the RV Post. It is very important that the draw-down bolt is tightened before the U-bolts are tightened. When the RV Base is installed correctly, the RV Post should have a ¼” to 1” gap between the RV Post and the RV Base where the draw-down bolt attaches.(PIC F) Also, you should not be able to disengage the latch pin in the wheel well when the base is installed correctly."

Note the part "RV Post should have a ¼” to 1” gap between the RV Post and the RV Base where the draw-down bolt attaches." The horizontal U-bolts are not for vertical load bearing, they are to prevent horizontal movement of the hitch.

http://www.turnoverball.com/sites/default/files/rvk3000_06_27_2013.pdf

Chris

Geeze give it a rest. You're not going to change anyone's mind. You're starting to sound like the FastEagle and his love of all things ST tire.

Riddler6.7 wrote:

stewks wrote:
I was able to rotate the Andersen hitch around to get the best clearance (about like a no slide hitch).

Just curious if you have called and asked andersen about turning the base around as i know at least my hitch has a sticker on it that indicates which way to have it facing. I really would like to turn it around to move the weight forward a little more, but just not sure if they decided to put the sticker on there for safety reasons or not.

I really meant to say I rotated the hitch CONNECTOR BLOCK around. That places the Kingpin almost right over the gooseneck ball. It worked well to give me the clearance to the tailgate that would not have worked otherwise. I think rotating the hitch base probably is not a good idea since I am sure the angled pipes are designed to absorb fore and aft loads differently since they are angled differently. Sorry for the confusion.

glazier wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:
This Guy had his bed broke by the flex in his 18k Companion.

I am not crazy about the adaptor part of the Companion, Andersen, or the Bull Dog fifth wheel adaptor hitches...however, there are millions of miles and hundreds of thousands of users with these products.

You can even add the Curt X5 adaptor base rails to this bunch. These all distribute some weight to the bed floor.

I know they work, I don't think they are unsafe...at all... But the flex may damage some peoples bed to one degree or another...or it may not.


I don't hate the fifth wheel rails...if I were installing a fiver hitch...I would probably use the rails. They just seem more secure giving a firm wide base with four anchor points directly on the frame. My dad has the rails and I can't say the get in the way of using the bed. My best friend had rails in his last truck. I helped him load many things in and out of the bed. The rails never seemed to get in the way.

What I would probably do is install the fifth wheel rails and get a gooseneck plate for my rails if I ever needed to pull a gooseneck. I understand the desire for a "clean bed" but the reality is that most beds are not "clean" with or without the rails.

I know a man who owns a 2012 F250 XL and pulls a fiver.... He has fifth wheel rails...he also has a B&W turnover ball for his horse trailer...I kinda scratch my head on that one...I would do one or the other. $125 gooseneck plate for the rails would have solved the issue.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

The guy in the video stated he installed flat bar in the low part of the bed floor ( he had an older design). B&W provides a part that does just that on all Companion hitches now. With the flats of a bed supporting the weight directly over the bed channels, the Companion is a very strong secure hitch.

It still carries the pin weight load on the sheet metal bed floor. Not the truck's steel frame.

"STEP 3: INSTALL BASE
Note: If truck is equipped with a removable bed liner or mat. It should be removed or it must be cut to allow the base to directly connect with the bed. It is acceptable to install the RV base over a spray in bed liner.
Place the RV Base over the RV post so that the U-bolts wrap around the RV post. (PIC E) Then place a ½” washer (K) on the ½” x 3” draw-down bolt (D), insert the bolt through the hole in the top flange of the RV base and hand-thread the draw-down bolt into the RV Post. **NOTE: DO NOT lubricate the draw down bolt or U-bolts, the torque value is for dry threads. Square the RV base legs with the ribs of the truck bed and then tighten the ½” x 3” draw-down bolt to 40 ft-lb. Next, tighten the two u-bolts to 80 ft-lb. to secure the RV Base to the RV Post. It is very important that the draw-down bolt is tightened before the U-bolts are tightened. When the RV Base is installed correctly, the RV Post should have a ¼” to 1” gap between the RV Post and the RV Base where the draw-down bolt attaches.(PIC F) Also, you should not be able to disengage the latch pin in the wheel well when the base is installed correctly."

Note the part "RV Post should have a ¼” to 1” gap between the RV Post and the RV Base where the draw-down bolt attaches." The horizontal U-bolts are not for vertical load bearing, they are to prevent horizontal movement of the hitch.

http://www.turnoverball.com/sites/default/files/rvk3000_06_27_2013.pdf

Chris

jerem0621 wrote:
This Guy had his bed broke by the flex in his 18k Companion.

I am not crazy about the adaptor part of the Companion, Andersen, or the Bull Dog fifth wheel adaptor hitches...however, there are millions of miles and hundreds of thousands of users with these products.

You can even add the Curt X5 adaptor base rails to this bunch. These all distribute some weight to the bed floor.

I know they work, I don't think they are unsafe...at all... But the flex may damage some peoples bed to one degree or another...or it may not.

I don't hate the fifth wheel rails...if I were installing a fiver hitch...I would probably use the rails. They just seem more secure giving a firm wide base with four anchor points directly on the frame. My dad has the rails and I can't say the get in the way of using the bed. My best friend had rails in his last truck. I helped him load many things in and out of the bed. The rails never seemed to get in the way.

What I would probably do is install the fifth wheel rails and get a gooseneck plate for my rails if I ever needed to pull a gooseneck. I understand the desire for a "clean bed" but the reality is that most beds are not "clean" with or without the rails.

I know a man who owns a 2012 F250 XL and pulls a fiver.... He has fifth wheel rails...he also has a B&W turnover ball for his horse trailer...I kinda scratch my head on that one...I would do one or the other. $125 gooseneck plate for the rails would have solved the issue.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

The guy in the video stated he installed flat bar in the low part of the bed floor ( he had an older design). B&W provides a part that does just that on all Companion hitches now. With the flats of a bed supporting the weight directly over the bed channels, the Companion is a very strong secure hitch.

Me Again wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

Me Again wrote:
Anderson really hedges on the requirement for safety chains! I would get tired along with my front jacks with the extra lifting to couple or uncouple it. Trailer has to be lifted and extra 3 or 4"!

I would like to see one after a wreck? Compress test is testing it in a single direction at it's strongest point.

Like the B&W Companion I am not convinced placing hitch loads on sheet metal beds is the best long term design!

Traditional 5th wheel hitches when correctly installed put the load on the frame rails.

If I get a new RAM it will have factory prep and a four puck hitch that locks onto the frame.

Chris

Me Again, could not agree with you more!! I believe that both B&W and Anderson have had issues with bending the bed floor.

Sorry, but for all the bad press, I am convinced that my Reese 16K twin jaw hitch is a great hitch. That especially when I have towed my fiver over 30 miles, with the locking latch in the unlocked position!

Solidly connected to the frame at four locations!!

Sorry Cummins9812V, I may someday think about the rail mounted Patriot, but not one that depends on the sheet metal bed floor.

Well, Russ there are a lot of koolaiders that think the turnover ball is carrying the weight. If you read the Anderson reply, like the safety chains they did not really answer my question. So keep the 5th wheel on the lighter side to protect your bed.

Chris

Well I have read the instructions for installing the B&W. They state to tighten the bolt that goes in the ball adapter to 40 ft. lbs., so you already have pressure on the bed. The "U" boldt get tightened to 80 ft. lbs, and this is to support the weight, but it is only a single point, the hitch assemble still moves forward and back, pivots on that single point.

This Guy had his bed broke by the flex in his 18k Companion.

I am not crazy about the adaptor part of the Companion, Andersen, or the Bull Dog fifth wheel adaptor hitches...however, there are millions of miles and hundreds of thousands of users with these products.

You can even add the Curt X5 adaptor base rails to this bunch. These all distribute some weight to the bed floor.

I know they work, I don't think they are unsafe...at all... But the flex may damage some peoples bed to one degree or another...or it may not.

I don't hate the fifth wheel rails...if I were installing a fiver hitch...I would probably use the rails. They just seem more secure giving a firm wide base with four anchor points directly on the frame. My dad has the rails and I can't say the get in the way of using the bed. My best friend had rails in his last truck. I helped him load many things in and out of the bed. The rails never seemed to get in the way.

What I would probably do is install the fifth wheel rails and get a gooseneck plate for my rails if I ever needed to pull a gooseneck. I understand the desire for a "clean bed" but the reality is that most beds are not "clean" with or without the rails.

I know a man who owns a 2012 F250 XL and pulls a fiver.... He has fifth wheel rails...he also has a B&W turnover ball for his horse trailer...I kinda scratch my head on that one...I would do one or the other. $125 gooseneck plate for the rails would have solved the issue.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

rhagfo wrote:

Me Again wrote:
Anderson really hedges on the requirement for safety chains! I would get tired along with my front jacks with the extra lifting to couple or uncouple it. Trailer has to be lifted and extra 3 or 4"!

I would like to see one after a wreck? Compress test is testing it in a single direction at it's strongest point.

Like the B&W Companion I am not convinced placing hitch loads on sheet metal beds is the best long term design!

Traditional 5th wheel hitches when correctly installed put the load on the frame rails.

If I get a new RAM it will have factory prep and a four puck hitch that locks onto the frame.

Chris

Me Again, could not agree with you more!! I believe that both B&W and Anderson have had issues with bending the bed floor.

Sorry, but for all the bad press, I am convinced that my Reese 16K twin jaw hitch is a great hitch. That especially when I have towed my fiver over 30 miles, with the locking latch in the unlocked position!

Solidly connected to the frame at four locations!!

Sorry Cummins9812V, I may someday think about the rail mounted Patriot, but not one that depends on the sheet metal bed floor.

Well, Russ there are a lot of koolaiders that think the turnover ball is carrying the weight. If you read the Anderson reply, like the safety chains they did not really answer my question. So keep the 5th wheel on the lighter side to protect your bed.

Chris

rhagfo wrote:

Me Again wrote:
Anderson really hedges on the requirement for safety chains! I would get tired along with my front jacks with the extra lifting to couple or uncouple it. Trailer has to be lifted and extra 3 or 4"!

I would like to see one after a wreck? Compress test is testing it in a single direction at it's strongest point.

Like the B&W Companion I am not convinced placing hitch loads on sheet metal beds is the best long term design!

Traditional 5th wheel hitches when correctly installed put the load on the frame rails.

If I get a new RAM it will have factory prep and a four puck hitch that locks onto the frame.

Chris

Me Again, could not agree with you more!! I believe that both B&W and Anderson have had issues with bending the bed floor.

Sorry, but for all the bad press, I am convinced that my Reese 16K twin jaw hitch is a great hitch. That especially when I have towed my fiver over 30 miles, with the locking latch in the unlocked position!

Solidly connected to the frame at four locations!!

Sorry Cummins9812V, I may someday think about the rail mounted Patriot, but not one that depends on the sheet metal bed floor.

Yeah, I don't blame you, I sure would not rely on anything that uses the bed as support. Which is why I have the B&W Companion hitch.