Any Mountaineer 347THT Owners?

I just thought I would share some information about the rear ramp. The last time I loaded my HD Ultra Glide up the ramp I noticed after it was loaded, I had a soft spot about mideway up the ramp. It was right where the tires travel over. No cracking, like someone had mentioned, just a soft spot or weak area. I have the impression that the board underneath the covering may have craked. Anyway, today prior to taking the bike down the ramp, I decided to place wood blocks underneath the spoft spot, to help shore up the ramp. This would prevent the tire from crashing through the ramp. I am going to call keystone about his, as this ramp should be sturdy enough not to have this happening. Until I get something done about the ramp, I'll keep placing wood blocks under the ramp to make sure the tire does not come crashing through. I have tried a winch, but had mixed results. I need to get a better mount for the winch. I am going to try to get the winch plate mounted on a bar that is secured to the front hooks, like what was described in an earlier post. The portable plate I have now is secured by chains that hook to the hooks, but it tends to twist and this results in the wire getting out of the track and binds up the motor. I had to start it up half way up and ride it up. I am going to take the winch and plate over to an iron shop and see what they can do. I want to be able to just lay it down and hook it up and then start it up. If anyone else has talked to keystone about ramp problems could you drop me a note. Thanks.

Hello all. It is good to see the reports of "experiences", thanks for sharing. We are still occasional users and each outing provides us with more appreciation for the unit. Just spent 7 days at a nearby lake. High temps averaged 101-107 all week. Sure glad we have both ACs. Found out the slide areas are not as insulated as the body of the rig. At least 5* difference between dining table and kitchen counter. Use of floor fans made all the difference--keeping the air moving.
I will be watching the ramp for indications of problems--nothing yet. Reflective covers on the garage windows will really help reduce the interior heat. Again, we use a small floor fan to keep the air moving.
Our retrievers have destroyed the shades in the "man cave". Seems they have to look out when we leave/arrive. Anyone have any suggestions for replacements that would be a little more durable?
Like the results of the air bag w/compressor and the tire pressure/temp systems. On the bucket list.
Needing some assistance with maneuvering your unit, check out www.rvbasictraining.com . Very good source of info and training. It is based on what CDL license holders must know to handle the big rigs.
Enjoy, every mile is a practice mile,
Darrell

Hey Bob

Like Jim we added the Tireminder from CW. We had a bit of trouble with them but got them working finally when I found out the battery connector on one wheel unit had a broken solder connection.

The ramp with a Harley or any large heavy bike is a challenge going up or down. Throw in wet weather or dew and its very scary. I think I will add the small winch eventually and power up to the chock slowly under control.

I strongly recommend you check your d rings often and always tie down your bike. I had a front ring pull out and eventually all the movement finally allowed my Ultra to lean over and hit the short wall and damage it. (Keystone had to replace all our vinyl flooring under warranty after the main slide damaged the floor. Apparently the flooring installers removed the d rings and then reinstalled them and stripped the anchors threads by over torquing them. Luckily not too much damage but after I replaced all the hardware and added a second anchor to each d ring.

PS we've not had any tire issues with the Marathons but I guess that's not the average.

Anyways the 347 is a great unit and we've loved every trip out in it so far.

Good luck.

HI Bob, Carol and I have been full time RVers since June 30th. We sold the house, cars and lots of stuff about five months ago and finally retired on June 30th.

Here are some things we have learned in those five months:

1. Make sure all the kitchen drawers are in when you bring in the kitchen slider. (Top draw was open a little and jammed the slider from opening--noticed it about the third time we tried to open it. No damage, but came dang close to busting the drawer up or th molding around the slider.
2. . If it is going to drop below 32 degrees you need to take your water hose off and drain it.
3. If there is no radio antenna hooked up (for whatever reason) you can order one on the Jensen web site. It is a little roll up wire deal works--ok for local reception.
4. Go to a hardware store in get those rolls of aluminum car window shade material and use on back room windows in the summer. Much cheaper that that stick on film you can buy at Camper World.
5. Prior to taking water heater rod out, soak the threads it town with liquid wrench spray.
6. If you get those slider covers with the metal covers that cover the awning when it is rolled up, be prepared to wedge wood or those plastic level blocks to keep the awning from flapping in high winds.
7. In really high winds (like the 70 MPH wind we had out at Edwards AFB), be ready to throw a rope over the awning top and tie down the awning, to prevent roll out and damage.
8. When you go to a scale like they have at pilot, learn how they work first. That can save you some money.
9. Air Bags work great. Nice and level.
10. Air Bed for the fold out couch can put in air fast and also take it out fast. Just turn the knob.
11. If you want 110 poweer for your coffee maker, toast, etc, when you do not have shore power, you need to put in an inverter. And then you need to think about putting in six-volt Golf Cart batteries. I put in four.
12. Make a checklist and keep refining it until you do not forget anything.
13. Go to Harbor freight and buy their leak detectors around 7 bucks and place them where any water could be. Under sinks, and in storage compartment. If your tanks get too full and that water comes up into those pipes you may get a little leak! We had a little leak under the kitchen sink when our tank got too full, so now we make sure we empty those tanks and have the leak detector there just in case we forget.
14. Love our Winegard satellite dish (slimline). We get all those HD channels just like at home.
15. If you get the DNS (Distant Network Service), send in the application via fax number. Much faster turn around.
16. Those little bunge cord straps with the ball that you tighten work great on all the cabinets and drawers.
17. I have finally figured out that the only safe way to take my Electra Glide HD up and down the ramp is by winch. I have not installed it yet, but am not going to leave Ogden, UT (Hill AFB RV Camp) until I get one installed. The last time I ran it up the ramp I hit the chalk off center and put the bike on it’s side. No damage, but scared the******out of me. And I am getting tired of the slip and slide down the ramp--using front break and clutch. Then today when I stopped to have the local RV dealer give me an estimate , I found the bike had backed out the wheel chock and was leaning over on it’s side. I had the front tie downs around the front forks on each side that was not keeping the bike from rolling off the wheel chock I should have gotten a chock that you could tie down to the front of the chock, to keep the bike from rolling backwards. So, the lesson here is, that a chock keeps it standing up great, but make sure your bike cannot roll off the chock. Temp fix today was to place two by 8s behind back tire-right up to rear ramp.

Anyway, that’s some of the things that come to mind right now. I am glad we lived in the rig for five months prior to hitting road full time, as we really had a chance to learn our how to live in our rig.

As far as Tire Pressure Monitors, I went ahead and got “ Tire Minders”. Salesman at Camping World told me that they have very few returns on those systems. So, far it is working good. Monitors pressure and temp for up to 22 tires. I have four and it is working fine.

Our Splindeed (SP?) washer dryer combo works great. We had drip pan installed underneath—just in case we forget to keep grey tank open. Never had any overflow yet.

Anyway, you can learn from reviewing all the pages of this forum. I am going to copy some of the pics of the winch setup that a guy make up. I am going to have the RV dealer do something similar.

Anyway, take care Bob and yes, people do check into this forum once in awhile.

Jim & Carol

Hey there, things have been pretty quiet on this forum. Everyone must be out seeing America. We've been out several times with the trailer and all seems to be working well with one exception. When bringing the LT down the ramp a couple months ago it looked like the ramp had separated right in the middle but under the nonskid cover. As in, two pieces of board running longitudinally with one side now about 5/16th of an inch higher than the other. Sure didn't look right so I took it in and after 3-4 weeks of dinking around with Keystone they replaced the whole rear door/ramp as well as the "jam" around it. Seems the new door is a little different than the original. Perhaps an engineering improvement? It's different enough that the former gasket would no longer work with the new door.(too wide) Only had the bike on it once since then with no issues. We've noted the LT no longer bottoms out going into the garage but I've also figured how to manipulate the angle for loading and dropping the air lift on the truck bed down to zero. Flattens out the approach into the garage a bit. However, this is at home. On the road one cannot always find the most desirable loading locations.

Also having fun and frustration learning how to back the beast into narrow beach RV sites with lots of cars parked nearby and spectators milling about. Don't quite have the handle on it yet but I've been practicing. Any pointers?? "Everyone" asks about the back door. The trailer really is pretty unique.

Anyone using tire pressure monitors on their 347? Recommendations?

We've been making plans for a two week jaunt up to the old family homestead and farm in North Dakota this September. Looking forward to taking our time and enjoying versus squeezing in the weekend trips!

Hope all is well on your side of the Rockies!

Super progress. Thanks for the info and insight--variety. Rock and Roll.

Got the Condor in on Saturday. Turns out it's about nine inches from the kitchen pass through wall and just slightly to the left. This was due to handlebars and mirrors. Still can get in from side door and also wedge the recliners between the bike and desk. Although I took it nice and easy, the LT bottomed just a little going into the trailer. The centerstand scraped the very top metal frame around the non-skid. (I know Harley guys, centerstand, what's that?) I thought the fold out board at the bottom of the ramp would be the weak point but it was quite steady. The surprise was after the third time I ran it up the ramp, a separation appeared in the upper ramp under the non-skid. Looks like two pieces of board laid next to each other right down the middle are now about a quarter inch askew, one taller than the other. Why on earth would they use two pieces versus one? My LT with me on it weighs about 1100 pounds so we were well within the posted tolerance stickers on the ramp and the garage. They are going to get it repaired under warranty and fully reinforced. The chock is a sweet idea and will make the whole rig that much more servicable. Backing down was a little hairy the first time but by the third shot I just let slip all the way down until I was level. No problema!

I had the Firestone lift system with compressor installed on the F250 a few weeks ago. Running it at 22 pounds pretty much levels the whole rig with the trailer sitting just a bit low in the back. I was able to raise the truck bed quite a bit and change the angle of the loading ramp to stop the LT from bottoming out on the last two passes. Nice, unexpected benefit. I got the wireless remote on the compressor so you can do it all from outside the trailer too. Someone asked about accessing the compressor for other items like filling tires. Yes, that was an option for an extra $350 but it didn't seem practical to me carrying 40-50 feet of hose, etc. I have a hefty yet portable compressor at home for the tires. Just to round it all out, I did have the fuel tank swapped out to the Transfer Flow 50 gallon direct replacement. More than doubled my range and I have an option for another 36 gallon under the Roll-n-lock in the bed if I start feeling inadequate.

We spent most of Saturday outfitting and it's all coming together. Added a two stage water filtration system plus a variable pressure regulator with a nice big gauge on it. Pretty cool rig all things considered! Just about ready to rock. :C

Hook it up, load it up, cinch it down secure and get ready for the time of your life. Congrats, you've come a long way.

Finally getting the trailer back from the California dealer after a few warranty repairs and an upgrade or two. A buddy and I will be working to install the Condor chock tomorrow. Looks pretty straight forward from all the nice descriptions and photos in this thread. We'll get the bike up in the garage and see where the chock mounts end up.

navspecwarops wrote:
OK, I'm ready to install the Condor Trailer Only Chock. I've reread the entire thread and seen a lot of the photos. Last question regarding positioning. I'm thinking the front of the chock should have some clearance from the kitchen/pass through wall of say about one inch as bikes can flex the front stop just a bit when dropped into the chock. The photos I've seen "look" like the chock is right up against the wall where I'm thinking it might flex the wall in if this should happen. What do you think, Gents??

I'm centered between d-rings and my chock is 1 inch back from shelf wall. With the Ultra & tourpak I wanted enough room at the rear door to get around the bike when hauling.

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