Any Mountaineer 347THT Owners?

On the post about the Electrical problem I has posted earlier. Well, it was the 50 AMP breaker at the Post that was bad. Camp Electrician fixed in about two minutes. He advised, "Always have post checked first, before you tear into anything". Good advice.

I have two condors that I load a lowered Heritage and an Ultra Classic in and have never had an issue with hitting the fender when front wheel is in the loaded position. If you get the condor with the frame you can use the frame of it for your front attach points.

RK
We went with Greenball load range F ST tires. Sams Club and Costco carry them among others. They are 3858 lbs 90 psi F rated so they are more than up for the Mountaineer thus far.

Good luck

Wow three years FT is impressive and must be fun!

I get an email when someone posts in this thread - and I also can't believe it's almost 5 years since my first question! Still have our 347. Stayed in it three months over the summer last year and not since - hopefully soon though.

For tires, you might consider a commercial truck tire like BFG Commercial T/A, Michelin XPS, or Firestone Transforce. We put the Firestones on ours in 2011. They've been to AK and back and a couple trips to FL - no probs and hardly show any wear.

The weight rating (3042#) on these don't mean much. ST tires have an easier rating system than passenger tires because they technically don't haul passengers, so a lesser factor of safety on them compared to commercial truck tires.

Good luck

Awhile back I had a ground fault interrupter popping. The one by the bedroom sink. I worked on that for a couple of months and finally found the cause. I noticed that I had a small leak in the shower floor that would leak after a few minutes and this leak was dropping close o the power outlet behind the Fireplace. Got some shower floor fix from Giant RV and after one day, never had a problem with C/B popping.

Now trying to find a problem with my 50 Amp service. I ran my Gen. the other day, for monthly exercise, and after I shut down the Gen I could not get 50 amp to work. My surge protector would not let power pass due to low voltage on line two. Works fine for 30 amp. With 50 amp hooked up and line not plugged, surge protector was fine. I called the surge protector company they suggested I turn off all C/B and turn on one at a time until the fault. I found the fault when I turned on Gen. C/B. I am thinking that it must be the automatic transfer switch. I talked to ATS and they suggested blowing out ATS box also suggested if that doesn't work, to take a look and see how the contacts look. Tighten screws. My ighbor here at MacDill AFB RV Camp suggested doing a little contact cleaning with sandpaper and or file. I'll give that a shot.

Carol and I have lived in our rig now for over three years and loving the full time life. No major issue with our rig, other than blowing five tires and having to replace at least three others. Had rig weight and am a little heavy on both axles. I think I am going to go with the G614 Goodyear RST 235/85R. They make it for Trailers, so maybe they will do the job. They hold 3750 lbs vs 3420 that I have on now. If that does not work, may have to go to the 17.5 inch rim and try some 120 psi tires.

Well, I thought I had it fixed with the knob, but actually found out that did not work. So, ended up replacing sensor that attached to tank. Easy to do. Works great now.

Thanks for posting your investigation on the water heater. I'll keep that in mind should same happen. Actually been looking at possibly replacing with one of those tankless versions they have available for RVs these days.

The site has been very quiet. Guess we all figured the bugs out of our rigs and then they stopped making this model. We're still running ours pretty regularly with minimal issues. Getting ready for our annual January jaunt down to Borrego Springs.

For the last couple of months I was getting low temp from the Suburban Water Heater. Decided to fix it so started checking on line. Had low temp around 100 in both electric mode and gas mode. Was checking a post and read about possibility of winterizing valve being open. Anyway, I checked valve placement and both of my winterizing valves were showing to be in correct position. I read about how the valve must to across the line of the pipe so I went out and turned both valves. Found out that the winterizing valve knob was broken. I felt the know slipping and loose, so I pulled the knob off and found it had cracked. Stuck knob back on and turned to where I thought valve was closed and went and tried heater again after about 10 min. Heat had gone back up to around 125 instead of 100, so I fixed my problem. Will pick up a new plastic knob next trip to Camping World. Tip off for me was I was getting low tem in both mode, so suspected cold water was getting into the mix, and sure enough that what it was. So, before you tear into your water heater, you might want to check those valve knobs. Been full time since July 2012 and am currently in FL again for the winter and will be going back to CA this summer and of course will be out to Sturgis for the 75th Rally. Been loving the Full time life and am finding the Montana to be great.

Update: I ended up fixing the sliding door myself. The track on the ceiling had pulled down inside the "sleeve." The three screws furthest in had worked out. Very narrow work area especially for a guy with big hands. I bought four 12 inch driver extensions and taped them all together. Took the track down and put a nice layer of glue on the underside. About two hours later I finally got the furthermost screw cinched. Technique is to guide the extension toward the top with one hand and actuate the power driver with the other. Used larger, self-tapping screws which added to the consternation but once they were in it was SOLID. They can also be put in at an angle without snagging the moving door. Both forearms bruised for a week! So, how to prevent this from happening again? I bought a stretch of that 3/4 inch pipe winterizing foam insulation tube. Measured it out the same length as the sliding door then split open the one side. It slides perfectly on three sides of the bottom of the door when it's in the retracted position holding it in place and providing some shock absorption while on the road. Very easy to install and remove.

So, a couple new things. My electric fireplace starts an annoying hum after about 20 minutes with the heat on. It appears to be associated with the heater blower as the sound spools down upon shut off. Can't find the name of the manufacturer, not even on the instruction booklet. Just wonder how it comes apart for cleaning and/or lubrication? Second item: I have the propane powered generator and would like to install a propane tap on the streetside propane tank to run a BBQ. I don't really know much about propane pressures, etc. Have any of you done this? I've seen other folks with fivers use this set up but none had the propane generator.

Back from ten days on the road including several on the winding curves of the Oregon coast. A couple of things occurred on the trip with the trailer but nothing major. Part of the trip was attending the BMW MOA International Rally in Salem, Oregon. We used their dry RV accommodation which included a 30 amp hookup. With a full load of water and empty tanks we ran out of water on the evening of the fifth day. This included nine Navy showers. Not too bad but for some reason I thought we had an 80 gallon water fresh water tank. Only 67, oops. Last year the wheel trim on the drivers side came loose including missing a couple of screws. Did a road repair but eventually fixed under warranty. This time the other side has come loose from two of the three mickey mouse struts that hold it in position underneath. Figure to reset it with nuts and bolts versus the sheet metal screws that seem to work their way out. Finally, the sliding door between the galley and bedroom seems to be off kilter. When closed it flushes against the wall but when retracted in the wall pocket, the lower end hangs out about two inches. I presume it has something to do with the tracks on the top either coming off the track or breaking. Haven't found anything online but it appears to be a pretty straight forward removal. Anyone had an experience with this on your rig?