Anyone do a total rebuild of a TH ramp?

TexasRangerRzR wrote:
I plan to get Line-X coating on the inside of mine.

I've got Line-X coating on the bed of my truck, and while it's tough, it's not something I would put on a door for its non-slip properties. I'm still searching for something really good for my toyhauler door.

WhitehouseLV wrote:
have you figured out what caused the soft spots? I just noticed my ramp has a wet spot all along the bottom of it.

For me, it was water intrusion at the bolts for the latches.

have you figured out what caused the soft spots? I just noticed my ramp has a wet spot all along the bottom of it.

arhayes wrote:

Sorry to hijack the thread, Taurus!

No worries. While I wish no one ill will, there is a part of me that's glad to hear I'm not the only one :(

All good info. Since we full-time, this is my home and I have no where to work on it. I guess I'll need to find a shop that can do a rebuild for me when it gets worse. I met a guy last year who'd had to replace his rear door on a 2 year old Fusion when cracked. I'm sure it's also a Lippert "quality" product. At the time I thought "That'll never happen to me"! LOL

Sorry to hijack the thread, Taurus!

...or weld some 1/4" round bar across the tread plate, every 6 inches. No slipping on that.

johntank wrote:

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
Maybe you can save some of the rebuilding work and just skin the inside with a sheet of 1/8" aluminum tread plate?

Overlaying the inside with anything is just covering up the problem, and I would not use aluminum tread plate because it can be very slick when damp/wet unless coated with a non slip coating. The ramp of any toy hauler needs some type of non slip coating on it JMHO.

I plan to get Line-X coating on the inside of mine.

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
Maybe you can save some of the rebuilding work and just skin the inside with a sheet of 1/8" aluminum tread plate?

Overlaying the inside with anything is just covering up the problem, and I would not use aluminum tread plate because it can be very slick when damp/wet unless coated with a non slip coating. The ramp of any toy hauler needs some type of non slip coating on it JMHO.

Thanks everyone for you replies. You've given me some great ideas.
stickdog: I tried searching every wording I could think of and found nothing.
As has been said, the price of a new one is prohibitive. We checked on salvage but aren't having any luck there either.
SoCal: I like that idea. The most we usually load is a 400# smoker
Fred: It is surprising that there is no structure but now that you said that I've walked all over the ramp and have never noticed any kind of ridge that would indicate there was a support.
arhayes & soxbrat: that is where mine started and is the worst

I just had the ramp/door rebuilt on my K-Z Sportster. A new door was going to be around $4,000. Rebuild was $1000. Apparently I've had a leak that caused deterioration and softening at the hinge area of the door. The inside of the door was opened and rotted luaun was removed and replaced. A 2' section of 1/4" aluminum diamond plate was installed on the outside and caulked. On the inside an approximate 18" piece of 1/8" aluminum was attached and then all was through-bolted using flathead screws and washers along with Tee nuts so that all have a reasonably flat profile. Everything has been well caulked and looks very good.I haul 2 600#+ Harleys. From now on I will be loading them using a 10' 2X12 to remove some of the weight from the door. Most THs use a door built by Lippet(Lippert?) mine is no exception. I hope that this is of some assistance to you.