Forum Discussion
- Old-BiscuitExplorer III
Gray Fox wrote:
OLD-Biscuit Thanks for the info I will try what u sent...
I am NOT a fan of the 'adjustable t-stat'
I just provided info and link to one.
Personally I think it is junk
Bracket that holds it is flimsy
Spring/plastic ring is cheap means of making contact with tank (OEM isn't any better)
Being exposed the t-stat gets corroded and makes any adjustments tough.
I like the HOT HOT temp at faucets/showers BUT I know it is going to be HOT HOT......visitors/kids ----could be potential for scalding - Gray_FoxExplorerOLD-Biscuit Thanks for the info I will try what u sent...
- Old-BiscuitExplorer III
Jim&Sharon wrote:
Old Biscuit, I measured from the kitchen sink tap into a container.
Straight HOT water.......120*F
If Suburban then losing 10*F from WH Tank Hot Out
If Atwood then losing 20*F from WH Tank Hot Out
IF Atwood XT then losing 10*F from WH Mixing Valve Hot Out
Long run from WH Tank to Kitchen Faucet? - Jim_SharonExplorerOld Biscuit, I measured from the kitchen sink tap into a container.
- Old-BiscuitExplorer III
Gray Fox wrote:
My heater is electric and gas what happens it drips out water from the pressure relief valve enough so u can see it when parked on a cement slab. Im thinking the water gets to hot. Some one posted a part #93105 not sure where this part # is located on my rig. Hope somone can help thanks........
That part number is for the Atwood Adjustable T-stat.....click on link to see
Water dripping from T&P Relief Valve is typically due to the loss of the air pocket in top of WH Tank.....air gap designed into WH Tanks to control pressure increases due to the water swelling when heated.
Air can be compressed...water can't.
No air pocket and pressure increases enough to cause T&P to WEEP
Air gap is established when WH Tank is filled
To RE-establish:
Turn water supply OFF
OPEN a faucet hotside to relieve pressure
OPEN T&P Relief Valve via Lever...hold open until water stops running out
Let T&P SNAP Closed
Close faucet
Turn water supply back on
The model number of your water heater should be in outside compartment on side frame - Gray_FoxExplorerMy heater is electric and gas what happens it drips out water from the pressure relief valve enough so u can see it when parked on a cement slab. Im thinking the water gets to hot. Some one posted a part #93105 not sure where this part # is located on my rig. Hope somone can help thanks........
- cmarqExploreri set at 120 just wife and myself no problem. also new stick house shower tub valves have adjustable temp settings. I also put in one takes a bit of redesign but is a big improvement over std RV one. Wish I had them when grand kids were little
- Old-BiscuitExplorer III
JRMunn wrote:
cmarq - Saw your post after mine was submitted. Where did you get the adjustable thermostat? This sounds like a good solution. I have also had leaks (drips) at the outlet and inlet of this HWH. Turned out that the plastic nipples used at the factory (? - I'm not the first owner) transitioned from round ends to square in the middle and could not be tightened enough. Of course, they were 1 3/4" long and the only new ones I found locally were all round and either 1 1/2" or 2" long. The 2" seem to work okay, but changing nipples requires taking off the tubing connectors, which then needed new gaskets to stop new leaks.
Posted earlier.....
Atwood does have an adjustable T-stat (110*F to 150*F)
Replaces the T-stat
ECO remains the same
Atwood Adjustable Part No. 93105
Course the lower the temp will result in HOT Water running out quicker. - JRMunnExplorerOld-Buscuit - Good to know that the HWH gas use is not as bad as I thought, and now I know how to evaluate other gas appliances. The refrigerator is off, so the heater must be running more than I realized.
- JRMunnExplorercmarq - Saw your post after mine was submitted. Where did you get the adjustable thermostat? This sounds like a good solution. I have also had leaks (drips) at the outlet and inlet of this HWH. Turned out that the plastic nipples used at the factory (? - I'm not the first owner) transitioned from round ends to square in the middle and could not be tightened enough. Of course, they were 1 3/4" long and the only new ones I found locally were all round and either 1 1/2" or 2" long. The 2" seem to work okay, but changing nipples requires taking off the tubing connectors, which then needed new gaskets to stop new leaks.
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