Atwood water heater 10 gal

With that new of a WH, it's possible you have both gas and electric. Is it possible you're running the gas all the time?

If so, I'd recommend shutting the flame off and only use electric (assuming you have that heating element). While you research how to turn the temp down.

(I mention this because I've known several RV'ers who had no idea they had a dual function water heater as the electric element switch wasn't obvious).

One source of heat doesn't get appreciable hotter than the other and it wont matter how long you run either unless you try to shut it down before it reaches temp.
Unfortunately there is no temp adjustment on newer water heaters.

The Atwood in your 2009 HH II uses one set of T-stats for temp control...be it electric and/or propane

T-stat (normal control) Opens at 140*F to stop any heating and Closes at 110*F to start heating cycle


ECO (Energy Cut Off---Hi temp) Opens at 180*F to shut down ALL heating, will trigger the RED Fault Light and 'Locks Out' any reheating cycles until system reset.

ECO self resets when temp drops below 150*F.
Fault Light/Lock Out is reset by turn On/Off Switch OFF, wait 30 seconds and then back ON (whichever heat source was being used)
Typically if ECO trips....the T-stat has failed to control temps



T&P Relief Valve is final backup. OPENS/SPEWS if temp reaches 210*F or 150PSI
T-stat AND ECO have FAILED



Atwood does have an adjustable T-stat (110*F to 150*F)
Replaces the T-stat
ECO remains the same


Atwood Adjustable T-stat Part No. 93105

Course the lower the temp will result in HOT Water running out quicker.



You can heat with electric, with propane OR with BOTH
Temp control remains the SAME....just different recovery times
Electric slowest, propane much quicker and BOTH is fastest.

Jim@HiTek wrote:
With that new of a WH, it's possible you have both gas and electric. Is it possible you're running the gas all the time?

If so, I'd recommend shutting the flame off and only use electric (assuming you have that heating element). While you research how to turn the temp down.

(I mention this because I've known several RV'ers who had no idea they had a dual function water heater as the electric element switch wasn't obvious).

:H

OB, anything like that for Suburbans?

ScottG wrote:
OB, anything like that for Suburbans?

Suburban uses a 130*F normal......optional 140*F
Both preset.non-adjustable

High is same on both.

Normal/High come as a SET wired together on a backing plate
120V AC Set for electric and 12V DC Set for the propane

Propane only uses same draw pan with cut out for electric and propane t-stats but only propane set used
DIYs have used that empty space when electric set is missing to install a residential t-stat that is adjustable and wired into the propane set.
BUT that is IF WH is Propane only

Gray Fox wrote:
I have a 10gal Atwood water heater, is there a way you can turn the temp down, the water is very hot. We never run out of hot water...

Thats why the temp is 140, what should be available is a scald proof valve at the shower, or tub fixture, but you might have to install a residential valve to accomplish this.

I used to think that my water heater was too hot until I measured it with a food thermometer. It was right at 120 degrees. just where it should be, so my equipment was working like it should.

I did not consider adding a mixing valve because my wife likes to scald dirty dishes, and I'm not dumb enough to tell her how to do it.

Jim&Sharon wrote:
.......and I'm not dumb enough to tell her how to do it.

Wiser words have never been said!

Jim&Sharon wrote:
I used to think that my water heater was too hot until I measured it with a food thermometer. It was right at 120 degrees. just where it should be, so my equipment was working like it should.

I did not consider adding a mixing valve because my wife likes to scald dirty dishes, and I'm not dumb enough to tell her how to do it.

Just curious....

Where was temp taken....at faucet, at WH T&P Relief?

What Brand/Model of water heater?