battery boiling

Like many have said it may be the converter which can be tested. I know the smell because i had it in my trailer and when i figured it out was kinda embarassed and felt pretty stupid. When i hooked up my batteries i became distracted and hooked up the cables wrong. I hooked positive to negative and negative to positive. Eventually it did boil the batteries, smelled terrible when it was plugged into 110 and caused the battereies to cook dry and bulge the side. I'm not proud of what i did but very thankful something worse didn't happen.

Probably right behind the basement rear storage wall on the door side of the trailer. There should be 4-6 screws holding the wall panel on. The converter is likely right behind it plugged into a standard 120V outlet. You can't miss it as it will say the make and model number right on it, have large DC leads coming from the battery, and be plugged into an outlet.

next question, where is the converter located on my 2011 Bighorn 2985 fifth wheel?

Replace. Good price here. Clicky...

I'd get the pendant too so you can see the charge level remotely. It's only another $11 and it plugs right in to the new converter. Clicky again...

how can I fix this without replacing converter, or do I have to replace converter?

Yep.

Based on those readings, it sounds like the converter is stuck in bulk mode and not dropping back into float once the battery is fully charged.

when unhooked from land line,voltage from battery is 13.4 volts dc. When plugged in to land line , voltage is 14.6 on the terminals of the battery.

Most often 13.6VDC charge voltage from any battery charge setup will boil out battery fluids over time. When this charge voltage is reduced to 13.2VDC then the boiling out of fluids is much reduced (if any)...

When you leave the battery connected to a charge source of 13.6VDC you should be checking the fluid levels. I check mine every couple of weeks.

Once the battery fluids get below the cores inside the batteries then the battery may short out internally. This will make the battery start getting hotter and hotter and really start boiling out more fluids.

It is hard to re-cover a battery from these problems.

This is why a SMART MODE CHARGING setup is so important for us. These system will use all of the necessary charging voltages to keep your battery re-charged. More importantly these units will drop back to a 13.2 VDC mode when currents are not being demanded by your system. This charging 13.2 VDC mode is just below the boiling out of fluids level and really saves your long term connected batteries.

I check my batteries on a regular basis using my MULTIMETER and watch the charging voltages coming from my on-board converter/charger unit or connected to the truck charging system when pulling my trailer very close to make sure all is doing what it is suppose to be doing...

ALot of us RV'ers can't afford to keep replacing dead deep cycle batteries where just a few simple measurements on a good maintenance schedule would prevent the batteries from going dead.

Just some of my thoughts
Roy ken