Bedroom slide repair

wborst wrote:
I replaced the floor in my bedroom slide-out WITHOUT removing the slide-out. I extended the slide-out then attached a piece of angle iron to each outside corner after removing the outside trim. I then screwed a 2 x 4 to each angle iron that was sitting on the ground. I then lowered the front of the 5'er just enough for the 2x4's to take the weight of the slide-out.

I then removed the mattress and the wafer board from the top the bed. This exposed the slide actuator mechanism.

Once the slide-out was supported, I took the screws out of the bottom that attached the floor to the walls. I then removed the bolts that attached the slide actuator to the floor. Then the entire floor came out from the bottom.

I used the old floor as a pattern for the new floor which I made from 1" thick marine plywood. After cutting the new floor to size, I coated it with several coats of spar varnish on all sides and edges.

After the spar varnish was dry, I installed the new floor from the bottom, screwed it to the walls and re-attached the actuator assembly.

Finally, I raised the front of the 5'er to remove the weight from the 2x4's, and removed the angle irons from the outside corners of the slide-out. Then I reattached the outside trim after sealing all the joints with Eternabond tape and caulking. Then I reassembled the bed platform.

The whole process took several days because of the dry time for the spar varnish. Dis-assembly and re-assembly only involved a couple of days. The bedroom slide-out is now better than new.

I hope this helps you out.

P.S. I had to order the 1" marine plywood from a specialty plywood store. The cost for a 4' x 8' sheet was about $150.

wborst,
Thank you for the encouragement, I just finished replacing the floor in my bedroom slide. Not an easy job for an 74 year old slightly overweight man but it is done. I laminated a 1/4" piece of plywood to a 3/4" piece of marine plywood and the 1/4" piece is on top so that it is in the bedroom not exposed to the elements. Four coats of Spar Urethane on all 6 sides and the help of my significant other and it's done.
Again thank you.

We now live 30 mins west of Baltimore. Would love to move back to the Lewes area. We camped at Cape Henlopen last weekend. What a great park. Good luck with your repair.

aarond76 wrote:
I went thru my "favorites" and found one of the youtube videos showing slide out floor replacement. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItckXrP8wa0&feature=BFa&list=ULQap-S104KaU

Also, I see you are from Lincoln, DE. My wife and I grew up in Laurel, DE.

Interesting, where are you living now? I did watch the video you are referring to but I might have to pull the slide to repair some of the area beneath the slideout, not sure yet.

I went thru my "favorites" and found one of the youtube videos showing slide out floor replacement. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ItckXrP8wa0&feature=BFa&list=ULQap-S104KaU

Also, I see you are from Lincoln, DE. My wife and I grew up in Laurel, DE.

There are videos on the internet showing this being done without removing the slide as well. Also, I don't see why you could not glue several layers of plywood together if you did not have easy access to the 1" marine ply. I like the idea of the spar varnish as opposed to recovering with the black material. Afterall, that material is what caused the problem in the first place. The water came in from above and then the black fabric held it there rotting your floor away.

wborst,
Thank you for the information, looks like I will be using your methods and attempting a floor replacement my self. I will let you know how I make out. It will be a few days before I get into this. I will have to source the materials ahead of time so that the slide is open to the factors.
Again Thanks
Ron

Yes, mine had a similar covering. Since I coated the plywood with spar varnish, it is completely water proofed. Therefore there was no need for this covering.
Bill

Hi wborst,
Did your 5w have a black plastic covering on the bottom of the slide floor to protect it from the elements? If so what did you use to replace that material? I guess I would have to cut away that material to get to the screws that hold the plywood floor to the walls is this correct?
Ron

I replaced the floor in my bedroom slide-out WITHOUT removing the slide-out. I extended the slide-out then attached a piece of angle iron to each outside corner after removing the outside trim. I then screwed a 2 x 4 to each angle iron that was sitting on the ground. I then lowered the front of the 5'er just enough for the 2x4's to take the weight of the slide-out.

I then removed the mattress and the wafer board from the top the bed. This exposed the slide actuator mechanism.

Once the slide-out was supported, I took the screws out of the bottom that attached the floor to the walls. I then removed the bolts that attached the slide actuator to the floor. Then the entire floor came out from the bottom.

I used the old floor as a pattern for the new floor which I made from 1" thick marine plywood. After cutting the new floor to size, I coated it with several coats of spar varnish on all sides and edges.

After the spar varnish was dry, I installed the new floor from the bottom, screwed it to the walls and re-attached the actuator assembly.

Finally, I raised the front of the 5'er to remove the weight from the 2x4's, and removed the angle irons from the outside corners of the slide-out. Then I reattached the outside trim after sealing all the joints with Eternabond tape and caulking. Then I reassembled the bed platform.

The whole process took several days because of the dry time for the spar varnish. Dis-assembly and re-assembly only involved a couple of days. The bedroom slide-out is now better than new.

I hope this helps you out.

P.S. I had to order the 1" marine plywood from a specialty plywood store. The cost for a 4' x 8' sheet was about $150.