Broken Leaf Spring

TimnJo wrote:
Discovered a broken spring pack when we arrived at the campground. Called a local RV place and obtained a replacement. Now, to replace it my BIL thought we could pull the other wheel up on a ramp he has and with one of my two bottle jacks we could work the broken one off for replacement.
I would rather jack the frame up on that side and, with the wheel removed, replace it.
We're both mechanically inclined and have the tools necessary, including lots of 2X12, 4X4 and 6X6 wood to crib the frame up.
What are your thoughts as to the best method?

TIA.

P.S. just wish I had brought my impact gun and power ratchet!

..........The best jack I've found is a 20 ton , hyd. jack with the air powered option ! Squirt some 20 wt. oil into the air line before connecting up to pressure as it will enhance the pulsing mechanism lifting the jack . These jacks are available @ Northern Tool as well as Harbor Freight .
..........I placed the jack immediately behind the back hanger to lift one side of the trailer............Also , trailer was connected to truck and landing jacks were raised and not used ! Did , you know the length of the eye to eye measurement of your spring packs , Before you removed them ? IF , your center to center distance on your axles is 33 inches , your eye to eye distance should be 25 1\4" inches ! Most 5'ver owners have NO idea what this number is !
..........IF , a 5'ver has a broken spring pack , one axle can slide back causing the tires to rub against each other which will cause them to catch fire in short order . A tire on fire is a difficult thing to put out . , jf

Check all of the nuts after a trip or two, especially the U bolts. Nice to watch somebody else do the job but nice to get it done for <$100 too, plus there is the learning experience.

TimnJo wrote:
Update: I was a little nervous about getting half way done and running into a roadblock so called a mobile truck repair place. Two guys showed up early the next morning and within an hour and a quarter they had it all done. They bottle-jacked it up in front of, and behind, the wheels, just enough for both tires to clear, but didn't remove the wheels. They said the most likely explanation is that the nuts on the U bolts were loose, they checked the other three and two of them needed re-torquing. There was some old rust evident on one of the broken leafs at the break point so I suspect at least one had been broken for a while. It was a bit more expensive than I had anticipated but worth it for peace of mind and not having to spend half a day of vacation on my back in the mud and gravel. For bad luck it wasn't that bad - made it to the campground without catastrophic failure, because it was raining the tires, even though they were rubbing, didn't disintegrate.

I've found that hiring pros to do a job that I could =probably= do, is much better in the long run. :-) 'Sides, I can have a brewski while I watch. :-)

Lyle

Glad it worked out for you. Wish I was in Canada, its hotter than heck here.

Update: I was a little nervous about getting half way done and running into a roadblock so called a mobile truck repair place. Two guys showed up early the next morning and within an hour and a quarter they had it all done. They bottle-jacked it up in front of, and behind, the wheels, just enough for both tires to clear, but didn't remove the wheels. They said the most likely explanation is that the nuts on the U bolts were loose, they checked the other three and two of them needed re-torquing. There was some old rust evident on one of the broken leafs at the break point so I suspect at least one had been broken for a while. It was a bit more expensive than I had anticipated but worth it for peace of mind and not having to spend half a day of vacation on my back in the mud and gravel. For bad luck it wasn't that bad - made it to the campground without catastrophic failure, because it was raining the tires, even though they were rubbing, didn't disintegrate.

We also had to replace a couple of spring leaves just last week.

Jack it up by the frame. Support the axles so that they are not hanging by the shiocks or brake wires. Remove the wheel with the broken spring.

Easiest to remove the entire spring stack to work on it. There is a locating bolt that goes through the center & keeps the stack together.

As long as you have everything apart might as well replace spring hanger bolts with wetbolts. Another thought. RV builders are notorious for building to minimum spec. Probably why the spring broke. Too much weight for too little spring. A one leaf upgrade with longer U bolts might be worth doing all round.

Hubby replaced on on side of the road in ny city good luck. Just upgraded to heavier springs and a not/ryde 4000 system.

Floor jacks are great on pavement. If the road surface is not perfect go with a bottle jack. I prefer jacks and jack stands that are over rated for the job. Definitely support from the frame. Be sure to properly secure the other tires. Double check your torque specs before starting.

I highly recommend leaving the trailer hitched to the truck with parking brake set on the truck and raise the landing gear up out of the way. Best not to put any stress on the landing gear.

Also recommend jacking on the frame. Use a 12x1 inch 1/4 inch steel plate between jack and frame if possible.

After jacked up crib up to the frame or use a good 12 ton jack stand.
Release the jack then apply a little pressure with the jack as a secondary to the cribbing or jack stand.

smkettner wrote:
You want both axles hanging from the frame on that side as a minimum.
Yes jack the frame and build the cribbing for support while you work.

X2 and like rjxj said, support the axil you are working on with a jack. Ideally, a floor jack, but being at camp you most likely don't have one. You may have to improvise. Thoroughly think your plan through and be careful.