Cleaning fresh water tank with bleach
I had black colored mold on the inside walls of my fresh water tank. My friend put in 2 cups of bleach and blew air into the tank to move the water around. The walls of the fresh water tank were cle...
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A gallon will help destroy your system. Read here:
I work at the local water company. That black yuk may mean the system went septic and its dangerous to your health (Use mask with a good filter and gloves) To truly disinfect a water system you have to apply a solution of 200 PPM CL2 (Chlorine). This is a disinfection process by contact, let that solution stand for about 15 minutes and make sure to run the water thru the entire system for wait times then flush the entire system. If you want a milder solution you can make a solution of 50 PPM CL2 and that should be in the system for 24 hours for a disinfection of the system. After you do either method you need to flush the system till you have the same CL2 levels as the domestic public water supply in the system. One way to see how much residual you have is use a aquarium test strips, we have very accurate measurement kits to work with. Maybe contact a local water provider person to run a test. If they are not immediately available you can get a sample bottle to run test. If you have a sample bottle (The empty bottle is sealed and has a set amount of chemical to get rid of CL2 for a water test, you have to fill the bottle to a certain fill line). When you get a sample it should be tested with in 18 hours and kept on ice the entire time. oh you can use Clorox or swimming pool powered chlorine to mix up the batch.
For that nasty mold looking stuff you need to make sure you remove and replace a NEW filter after cleaning. Personally I would discard the filter during the cleaning process and flush your system till its good and clean.
You could also apply the 200 PPM CL2 just in the tank to get rid of the black stuff and flush the tank thru the tank drain till its clean, then clean the piping / filter systems. Don't forget to run the solution thru your water heater.
The 200 PPM CL2 is very strong and do not leave it in the tank. It use is to disinfect your tanks and lines, do not let it sit for a long time as the strong solution can attack plastics and rubber products so 15 minutes and flush very good. It kills all bacteria and its very effective.
I'm not the best at math but 200PPM = 0.02% solution. ppm is used to determine a very low concentration of a solution.
Ppm (parts per million) to % (parts per hundred)
Example:
1 ppm = 1/1,000,000 = 0.000001 = 0.0001%
10 ppm = 10/1,000,000 = 0.00001 = 0.001%
100 ppm = 100/1,000,000 = 0.0001 = 0.01%
200 ppm = 200/1,000,000 = 0.0002 = 0.02%
5000 ppm = 5000/1,000,000 = 0.005 = 0.5%
10,000 ppm = 10000/1,000,000 = 0.01 = 1.0%
20,000 ppm = 20000/1,000,000 = 0.02 = 2.0%
Here is a link if you want to know more on ppm conversions:
PARTS PER MILLION CONVERSIONS
Got It! Click on Table 8.4 below
3 pints Chlorine Bleach per 100 gallons of water.
Since my fresh water tank is about 50 gallons, 1.5 pints of Clorox will do it. NEVER pour Clorox straight from the bottle into your tank. Adding water afterwards could liberate enough heat of solution to melt a hole in your tank. ALWAYS add concentrate to water. Fill your fresh tank about half full of WATER.
WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, old clothes, and a FACE SHIELD.
You do not want to splash Clorox into your eyes.
Then fill a 5 gallon bucket with about 4 gallons (or whatever you can easily lift) of water. Add the required amount of bleach to the 5 gallon bucket of water. Then using a funnel, pour it into your fresh tank.
Top off the tank with water and then power up your pump and open taps one at a time waiting till you smell the chlorine (and boy will you). Turn off that tap and go to the next one. Don't forget the hot water heater valves need to be open (but the heat turned off).
Disinfection of Water Supplies
Water supplies can be disinfected by a variety of methods including chlorination, ozonation, ultraviolet radiation, heat, and iodination. The advantages and disadvantages of each method are noted in Table 8.3.
The understanding of certain terms is necessary in talking about chlorination. Table_8.4 is a chlorination guide for specific water conditions.
Chlorine is the most commonly used water disinfectant. It is available in liquid, powder, gas, and tablet form. Chlorine gas is often used for municipal water disinfection, but can be hazardous if mishandled. Recommended liquid, powder, and tablet forms of chlorine include the following:
Liquid—Chlorine laundry bleach (about 5% chlorine). Swimming pool disinfectant or concentrated chlorine bleach (12%–17% chlorine).
Powder—Chlorinated lime (25% chlorine), dairy sanitizer (30% chlorine), and high-test calcium hypochlorite (65%–75% chlorine).
Tablets—High-test calcium hypochlorite (65%–75% chlorine).
Gas—Gas chlorine is an economical and convenient way to use large amounts of chlorine. It is stored in steel cylinders ranging in size from 100 to 2,000 pounds. The packager fills these cylinders with liquid chlorine to approximately 85% of their total volume; the remaining 15% is occupied by chlorine gas. These ratios are required to prevent tank rupture at high temperatures. It is important that direct sunlight never reaches gas cylinders. It is also important that the user of chlorine knows the maximum withdrawal rate of gas per day per cylinder. For example, the maximum withdrawal rate from a 150-pound cylinder is approximately 40 pounds per day at room temperature discharging to atmospheric pressure.
This should be plenty of facts to keep you safe.
I work at the local water company. That black yuk may mean the system went septic and its dangerous to your health (Use mask with a good filter and gloves) To truly disinfect a water system you have to apply a solution of 200 PPM CL2 (Chlorine). This is a disinfection process by contact, let that solution stand for about 15 minutes and make sure to run the water thru the entire system for wait times then flush the entire system. If you want a milder solution you can make a solution of 50 PPM CL2 and that should be in the system for 24 hours for a disinfection of the system. After you do either method you need to flush the system till you have the same CL2 levels as the domestic public water supply in the system. One way to see how much residual you have is use a aquarium test strips, we have very accurate measurement kits to work with. Maybe contact a local water provider person to run a test. If they are not immediately available you can get a sample bottle to run test. If you have a sample bottle (The empty bottle is sealed and has a set amount of chemical to get rid of CL2 for a water test, you have to fill the bottle to a certain fill line). When you get a sample it should be tested with in 18 hours and kept on ice the entire time. oh you can use Clorox or swimming pool powered chlorine to mix up the batch.
For that nasty mold looking stuff you need to make sure you remove and replace a NEW filter after cleaning. Personally I would discard the filter during the cleaning process and flush your system till its good and clean.
You could also apply the 200 PPM CL2 just in the tank to get rid of the black stuff and flush the tank thru the tank drain till its clean, then clean the piping / filter systems. Don't forget to run the solution thru your water heater.
The 200 PPM CL2 is very strong and do not leave it in the tank. It use is to disinfect your tanks and lines, do not let it sit for a long time as the strong solution can attack plastics and rubber products so 15 minutes and flush very good. It kills all bacteria and its very effective.
I'm not the best at math but 200PPM = 0.02% solution. ppm is used to determine a very low concentration of a solution.
Ppm (parts per million) to % (parts per hundred)
Example:
1 ppm = 1/1,000,000 = 0.000001 = 0.0001%
10 ppm = 10/1,000,000 = 0.00001 = 0.001%
100 ppm = 100/1,000,000 = 0.0001 = 0.01%
200 ppm = 200/1,000,000 = 0.0002 = 0.02%
5000 ppm = 5000/1,000,000 = 0.005 = 0.5%
10,000 ppm = 10000/1,000,000 = 0.01 = 1.0%
20,000 ppm = 20000/1,000,000 = 0.02 = 2.0%
Here is a link if you want to know more on ppm conversions:
PARTS PER MILLION CONVERSIONS
Got It! Click on Table 8.4 below
3 pints Chlorine Bleach per 100 gallons of water.
Since my fresh water tank is about 50 gallons, 1.5 pints of Clorox will do it. NEVER pour Clorox straight from the bottle into your tank. Adding water afterwards could liberate enough heat of solution to melt a hole in your tank. ALWAYS add concentrate to water. Fill your fresh tank about half full of WATER.
WEAR RUBBER GLOVES, old clothes, and a FACE SHIELD.
You do not want to splash Clorox into your eyes.
Then fill a 5 gallon bucket with about 4 gallons (or whatever you can easily lift) of water. Add the required amount of bleach to the 5 gallon bucket of water. Then using a funnel, pour it into your fresh tank.
Top off the tank with water and then power up your pump and open taps one at a time waiting till you smell the chlorine (and boy will you). Turn off that tap and go to the next one. Don't forget the hot water heater valves need to be open (but the heat turned off).
Disinfection of Water Supplies
Water supplies can be disinfected by a variety of methods including chlorination, ozonation, ultraviolet radiation, heat, and iodination. The advantages and disadvantages of each method are noted in Table 8.3.
The understanding of certain terms is necessary in talking about chlorination. Table_8.4 is a chlorination guide for specific water conditions.
Chlorine is the most commonly used water disinfectant. It is available in liquid, powder, gas, and tablet form. Chlorine gas is often used for municipal water disinfection, but can be hazardous if mishandled. Recommended liquid, powder, and tablet forms of chlorine include the following:
Liquid—Chlorine laundry bleach (about 5% chlorine). Swimming pool disinfectant or concentrated chlorine bleach (12%–17% chlorine).
Powder—Chlorinated lime (25% chlorine), dairy sanitizer (30% chlorine), and high-test calcium hypochlorite (65%–75% chlorine).
Tablets—High-test calcium hypochlorite (65%–75% chlorine).
Gas—Gas chlorine is an economical and convenient way to use large amounts of chlorine. It is stored in steel cylinders ranging in size from 100 to 2,000 pounds. The packager fills these cylinders with liquid chlorine to approximately 85% of their total volume; the remaining 15% is occupied by chlorine gas. These ratios are required to prevent tank rupture at high temperatures. It is important that direct sunlight never reaches gas cylinders. It is also important that the user of chlorine knows the maximum withdrawal rate of gas per day per cylinder. For example, the maximum withdrawal rate from a 150-pound cylinder is approximately 40 pounds per day at room temperature discharging to atmospheric pressure.
This should be plenty of facts to keep you safe.
