Curt Hitch

Or....... you could simply get the picture frame adapter and use your Superglide

For whatever it's worth, I have a Curt hitch in a short bed F250. Bought it late 2009, I've been all over the US with it, approx. 35,000 miles to every corner of the country. In the first year I used the slider a couple times. I've never used it in the last 4-5 years. In retrospect, I really didn't need it the first couple of times, either, it was a confidence issue.

I have had 2 Curt hitches, both 24k 1slider and 1 non slider. I liked both and my opinion they are a good quality hitch.

garysol wrote:
Or....... you could simply get the picture frame adapter and use your Superglide

Yours hitch must be one of the later style IRS. I looked at SuperGlides web site last nite and did not see anything that would work with my old 3400 series hitch and they do sell the picture frame but no worke.

I have a 3500 RAM, 2015, with a 16 k Curt hitch. No problems.

I have a Curt 16530 and really like it, now. But it took some getting used to. There's something you need to know about the Curt -

The Curt Q20 is a different kind of hitch and is not hitched up like other hitches. Some people who have had other brands of hitches have trouble with this. I did too, until I realized the reason.
Most fifth wheel hitches “fall back” at an angle to provide a “ramp” for the trailer hitch plate to ride up on when hitching. This doesn’t work very well for the Curt hitch because of the way it is made. The Curt hitch has a solid steel shank that is affixed to the hitch plate that extends down into a thick, rigid, rubber mount. This mount provides damping and prevents most “chucking and bucking” prevalent in many hitches. When the hitch is not coupled, the "resting" or "static" position of the hitch plate is parallel to the ground instead of tilting back like most hitches. It does provide a slight bevel at the trailing edge of the hitch plate. When you are hitching to the Curt hitch, I have found it is best to elevate the trailer pin so that the hitch plate is almost at the same height as the truck hitch plate – within ½”. Most other hitches are a little more forgiving on the height because they will elevate the trailer 1-3 inches with the “Ramp”.

The bottom line is this – the Curt hitch is a little more finicky when hitching; but, once you get used to it, it’s no more difficult than the others, and the benefit is better damping and a smoother ride.

Hiking Hunter wrote:
When you are hitching to the Curt hitch, I have found it is best to elevate the trailer pin so that the hitch plate is almost at the same height as the truck hitch plate – within ½”. Most other hitches are a little more forgiving on the height because they will elevate the trailer 1-3 inches with the “Ramp”.

The bottom line is this – the Curt hitch is a little more finicky when hitching; but, once you get used to it, it’s no more difficult than the others, and the benefit is better damping and a smoother ride.

I'll second this statement. I have a Q20, and when I first started using it, I was trying to ramp the trailer on. It wouldn't latch. Then I found out to set the trailer pin even, + or - a bit, to the plate. Now it latches so easy, you don't have to bang the trailer, just back to the pin, and it snaps shut. It works great, once you figure out how to hitch it.

Mark

I recently installed the pucks in my '14 3500 srw Ram. I went with the Curt E16. Very happy with the hitch.

SanMarMor wrote:

Hiking Hunter wrote:
When you are hitching to the Curt hitch, I have found it is best to elevate the trailer pin so that the hitch plate is almost at the same height as the truck hitch plate – within ½”. Most other hitches are a little more forgiving on the height because they will elevate the trailer 1-3 inches with the “Ramp”.

The bottom line is this – the Curt hitch is a little more finicky when hitching; but, once you get used to it, it’s no more difficult than the others, and the benefit is better damping and a smoother ride.

I'll second this statement. I have a Q20, and when I first started using it, I was trying to ramp the trailer on. It wouldn't latch. Then I found out to set the trailer pin even, + or - a bit, to the plate. Now it latches so easy, you don't have to bang the trailer, just back to the pin, and it snaps shut. It works great, once you figure out how to hitch it.

Mark

Thanks guys for the good info on the G20 I think that's what I'll go with if I get the new truck.

Jerry

SanMarMor wrote:

Hiking Hunter wrote:
When you are hitching to the Curt hitch, I have found it is best to elevate the trailer pin so that the hitch plate is almost at the same height as the truck hitch plate – within ½”. Most other hitches are a little more forgiving on the height because they will elevate the trailer 1-3 inches with the “Ramp”.

The bottom line is this – the Curt hitch is a little more finicky when hitching; but, once you get used to it, it’s no more difficult than the others, and the benefit is better damping and a smoother ride.

I'll second this statement. I have a Q20, and when I first started using it, I was trying to ramp the trailer on. It wouldn't latch. Then I found out to set the trailer pin even, + or - a bit, to the plate. Now it latches so easy, you don't have to bang the trailer, just back to the pin, and it snaps shut. It works great, once you figure out how to hitch it.

Mark

It is different. My Husky wasn't finicky about the height, just run it up the ramp and it locked. The Curt won't work that way and if your TV is not level with the RV it's worse. I'm going to have to re-think how I hook up. Maybe the "level with pin" will work. I'll try it. The learning curve continues....