D to E rated tires

Vulcan Rider wrote:

Lon-Str wrote:
Thinking of going from 8 ply tires on my fiver to 10. It will involve upping pressure from 65 to 80 psi.

What exactly leads you to believe that an increase in pressure would be needed ?? It probably isn't needed at all.

The Max. stamped on the sidewall is NOT the recommended pressure in all applications. It sounds to me like you are putting on tires with a higher capacity and since your actual load does not change, neither should the recommmended pressure.

BAD info!..:(

OP - try checking for the rated pressure on the *back-side* of the wheel. Common location for aluminum wheels.

If it's not there - it might be on the inside of the wheel - but that's doubtful.
The wheel mfgr might be a source - if you know who it is.

(Steel wheels = another doubtful on mfgr source)

Also doubtful that "asking a/your tire man" may help - other than selling you some wheels you may not need.
(However - he might be a good source for the Taco Bell menu from his previous employer..:R..)


Bottom line -
*YES* - you *DO* need to run psi at -or real close- to the max indicated on the sidewall (which is usually 80psi for LR E tires).

.

Lon-Str wrote:
Thinking of going from 8 ply tires on my fiver to 10. It will involve upping pressure from 65 to 80 psi.

What exactly leads you to believe that an increase in pressure would be needed ?? It probably isn't needed at all.

The Max. stamped on the sidewall is NOT the recommended pressure in all applications. It sounds to me like you are putting on tires with a higher capacity and since your actual load does not change, neither should the recommmended pressure.

I checked out my rims before I went to "E" rated because I would have more "reserve capacity" and our tire guy said that "E" rated are becoming more and more common therefore easier to replace if you ever need one on the road. I can't tell difference of ride, seems about the same to me. Steel valve stems are a big plus and only way to go IMO.

I didn't have any info on my rims either but a number and a logo gave me a start. I was able to find manufacture by the logo and the number was manufactures model number. Looked up info on manufacture's web site for model number and found out I was OK for larger rated tire. Some rims are stamped on back side, some on inside that you can only tell when tire is removed and some I understand don't have anything. Last time I was at a tire place I was looking at trailer rims (when having car tires done). And asked about how they tell if rim was rated enough. They couldn't give a good answer, but one answer was "they sell rims with a label that gives spec's" I noticed that they did in fact have a label. And I'm sure that sticky label would stay on for at least the first 50 miles.

I'm sure others will have different thoughts...Tire postings usually always do.

your tire man would know the answer to this question.

Lon-Str wrote:
Thinking of going from 8 ply tires on my fiver to 10. It will involve upping pressure from 65 to 80 psi. Nothing but mfg. date on my wheels. Should I be concerned about the extra pressure as far as my wheels are concerned, and the added roughness in the trailer ride?

Yes, to making sure the wheels can handle the higher pressure.

No, to worrying about any added roughness.