Designer 35RLTS and Jayco Talk...Thanks Frank!!

CHV_FRK wrote:
I'm having the same issue with my RLSA, except this weekend I have something dripping from the underbelly up in that same area. Mine will be coming off soon as well. I don't believe it's water line related... maybe part of my black tank valve leak. Oh what fun!

When we first opend the Designer in March of this year and soon after filling with water we had a leak...it was located middle of the underside of the Designer just past the steps toward the front and was leaking through the underbelly and insulation and onto the ground...ended up being a drain valve that was loose (can't think of all the loose fitting I have tightened to date and the story about the electrical fittings on the big slide are another story) and was fixed under warranty by the dealer...

I'm having the same issue with my RLSA, except this weekend I have something dripping from the underbelly up in that same area. Mine will be coming off soon as well. I don't believe it's water line related... maybe part of my black tank valve leak. Oh what fun!

Howard,

How is life in the great state of Washington these days?

CHV_FRK wrote:

cruz wrote:
We left our shocks off when we raised the suspension a couple of years ago. Moryde said we really didn't need the shocks. Been using it this way ever since !!

BTW ... they're Monroe shocks. Dealer wanted $150 + install for 4. NAPA wanted something like $20 each !?!


CRUZ

Cruz

Did you know what the new length should be? I've also raised my suspension.

No I don't ... but Moryde offered to sell me the new shocks for something like $30 or $35 a piece ... back in 2008 when I raised it ...

CRUZ

FYI, yesterday I removed the second section under my trailer so I could get to the valve for my black tank. This isn't fun because my gas line was on top of some of the screws holding the cover on. A chisel took care of them. You do have to cut the insulation behind the cover because it appears to be one piece and the valve is right behind that. My problem was toilet paper, I must have closed the valve while there was some in the way. This did not allow my drain valve to close all the way. I also cut the 3.5 drain pipe and put in a rubber boot to help with the reassembly. There are two rubber gaskets on each side of the valve you have to get back in and they can be a bugger. Make sure you have no leaks before you close everything back up. I had to do this a couple of times to get it right, in fact I haven't put any covers back on. Foil tape will close up the insulation and you will need new screws for the cover.

If the handle on your black tank doesn't go in as far as it once did you may have the same problem.

2008 Designer 35 RLSA

Frank thanks: the solution was cut off the ends of the inner shaft which slides inside the outer shaft, drill new holes, new pins and turn the gear over to use the pin hole on the other side and that seems to have fixed it. I have lots of bolts for pins, but taking the belly pan on and off is a pain. I'm an expert now after doing this.;)

As for the black tank handle-try a bag or a couple of bags of ice drive for a bit and let them rattle around in there and see if you can knock free whatever is jamming your valve. If your tank is empty maybe letting the ice cubes rattle through the valve opening will free it up.
If it works a cheap fix.

petekerwien,
If you are breaking shear pins then you are jamming the slide against something or it has caught on something under it. I would try to manually crank it in and see if you feel any resistance to that. If not, then try manually cranking it out and see if it hits something on the way out. I would suspect that there is something under the floor that is jamming it. At least you have 24 hours of daylight to find the trouble! :B
Good luck.
Frank

@petekerwien -- sorry, no problems there (yet!)
@whporwil -- Dang! I wish we could help you -- sorry -- got nothin'. Good luck!

Anybody! I have a 2008 35RLSA Designer with a black tank problem. I can't close the T handle all the way after draining my tank. Now I have noticed that liquid waste is still getting by the valve leaving the solid stuff behind. To clean the tank out I add water in the tolit and drain it right away. Anybody ever work on a drain valve? How did you get to it?

I'm in Fairbanks and blowing shear pins on my 2006 Designer dining room slide. Anyone else have this problem?