Dometic RM2852 not cooling but has flame...

Old-Biscuit wrote:

crystallized the rust inhibitor which was corrected during the burp.

Once crystallized it stays crystallized.....permanently. It does NOT go back into solution.

Just read that. Bummer. I guess it's a gamble then of how long it will last vs. how nice of a trip it could ruin...

Great news! Here is a link in how to cleaning your burner tube, this is an easy fix and you can do when on the road. Hopefully this get's your refir working on gas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwJ8Mmu_oLY

While you have it out, do the flu maintenance old-biscuit mentioned. Also measure and check the length of your baffle. Mine rusted to 1/2 inch to short, but my refir still cools fine. I ordered a replacement, it's been sittiing on a shelf for the next time (if ever) I pull the refir again.

crystallized the rust inhibitor which was corrected during the burp.

Once crystallized it stays crystallized.....permanently. It does NOT go back into solution.

Burping is nothing more than a band-aid fix

Running fridge while in transit will NOT harm fridge/cause crystallization because of the rocking and bouncing going on.

Off level operation while 'Stationary' WILL and can happen in less than 15-20 mins.
Damage is accumulative and permanent

Well I tried it on electric when we got back home and no dice. As a last ditch effort before ordering a new core, I tried burping the unit by removing it from the 5er and placing it on each side and upside down for about 5 minutes each side. Before I did this I removed all the heat shielding and didn't find any obvious signs of leaks on any of the rear tubing. I also heard liquid sloshing with each rotation of the burp procedure which was encouraging.

After that I plugged it into AC power and 20 min later I'm at 49F and falling in the freezer.

On our trip I had the fridge running on propane and we did about 2 hours worth of steep uphill. I suspect that prevented proper circulation and crystallized the rust inhibitor which was corrected during the burp.

Who knows how long it will last, but I'm glad it's working again!

There is some rust on the cooling tubes in the rear. Is there a paint I can put on to stop the rust while I have the fridge out of the 5er?

Will do. Back home now.

Slight cooling on back on freezer doesn't mean ALL OK

Freezer section can get cold and food section not IF their is blockage in cooling unit

When home......plug in to AC power.
Unplug thermistor at control module and run fridge on AC.
IF cooling unit OK food section will get down to almost freezing in 24 hrs.

Then clean up burner and flue and try on propane

Well I let it rest a day and then fired it up this morning. There was a slight cooling on the back wall of the freezer. I would think if the core went bad I wouldn't get that at all, so possibly the bumpy forest roads knocked a bunch if crud loose and is blocking the flue. I will take it apart when we get home. Fortunately there was some remains of snow where we are so I packed the frige with it and it seems to be doing the trick. Thanks everyone for chiming in... Keep it coming!

On my rig, you must remove vent hood mounting unit as it has screening then, if I was limber enough snake my arm around two areas to reach the back of the refer. I would then need an arm extension to reach baffle wire to lift it out.
Then to get brush down or up through the tube would be a chore.

No need to remove fridge to clean burner area, flue or flue baffle
Burner area accessible via lower vent cover and flue/flue baffle via roof vent

No need to make things complicated for a cleaning job

The method shown in manual normally requires removing the refer.
Using a straight piece of wire may dislodge debris on baffle.
You just have to remember not to stick something large up into the tube that will move the baffle up.