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Jenobandito's avatar
Jenobandito
Explorer
Feb 24, 2017

Door height

Seven years I had a building built 14" tall so I could get a larger RV at some point. I knew nothing about doors, floors and sidewalls, but I told the large building company what I wanted. Bottom line it could have been built so I could have a larger door, but since they did not listen to what I was going to do, I ended up with a low-profile door only 11'10 inches due to the position and tap of trusses. There is no room to change the door to another side.

Now that I am looking into a small 5th wheel with slides, I am not finding anything that will fit under my door, so without major changes will it be necessary to go with a trailer?

I can fit a 28' trailer into my building, but am looking into adding 10' on to the back. Length is not so much the issue now as getting something hopefully that would fit into the 28' with two full slides.

It is so time consuming looking at trailers, I though I could get some advice from all of you who can give me some advice.
  • Just a thought on the barn, you could eliminate the overhead door and install a sliding door. You could gain a foot or more in hieght if it works. Maybe not as convenient but it may work as I can only speculate without looking.

    Dan
  • Had the same problem, so it is not mud for me. the building we have is 30' wide and 50' long with doors facing on the north side, and the truss run north and south. the problem I had was the doors are 10' tall and with only 1'8" above them there was no way to modify economically to raise the building or lower the ground without destroying the concrete pad. Built another metal shed with the gable facing to the north with the side walls at 14' and metal cathedral trusses east to west, the north gable is 14' off the ground and closed the south to the other building.
    As money allows pour a concrete pad the size you need and then save money to build the shed of your dreams, to ass roll up doors you need to build side walls to 15', and make the building 24' wide to store your tow vehicle beside of it. Good travels to you.
  • Well it sounds like a TT with opposing slides would work the best for you. It would give lots of room, and you would not need to modify the building. With no helper, you are wise to not go too long. If you are used to a TT, it may be harder for you to adjust to the way a FW backs up, since different than TT.

    You did not mention what you have for a tow vehicle, but a bigger, longer TT may not work for you. That can also be an issue with a FW, as they require a heavier duty truck with a fair amount of payload.

    Good for you, to continue camping, and taking a yearly trip on your own. I'm not sure I could do that by myself.

    Jerry
  • I am sorry that I am not clear. As a single woman with very little mechanical/constructional ability, all I know is that my door will only accommodate a camper 11'8''. It is considered a 12' door, but the Cleary building guy measured it last night and alas....not a full 12'. I live on an acreage, and do not want to pay for storage since I built this building to house my present RV with hopes of upgrading. As I said, the Cleary rep did not hear what I was saying and I got what I got. Since I am struggling to understand how the distance to the bottom of the trusses matters, I figured all I could get in there was something less than 11'8''. Concrete floor. Wood trusses going the wrong direction to slip in between.

    Yes, I could come out the front, move the door. But I am pretty particular how things look and my building in is line with the garage, and when you drive into the acreage you can see my vineyard, which is pretty.

    As previously said, money is an issue. Since I am on a limited pension, I cannot revamp this building much and continue with my long-term plans on money lasting. I mentioned the building so as to explain my difficult situation.

    I guess I am really asking for advice on trailers, since 5th wheels will not work in this building. I would like to have two slides and would like the trailer to be around 28'. Until I actually hear back from Cleary on how much it will cost to add 10' to the back of the building, I will not know how long I can get. However, I know myself and since I presently pull a 25' trailer, am not sure that I can handle much more than 28' with the difficulties in fuel stations, campground, etc. As I mentioned, I am alone and need to simplify and still enjoy my RVing.

    I go out for several long weekends a year, and one 4 -6 week long trip a year.

    I have two great Pyrenees dogs, which is the reason for an upgrade with two slide rather the one small slide I presently have.

    Sorry, this probably seems inane to your seasoned men and woman, but it is serious to me.I have pulled a trailer for over 25 years, just short ones.
    I would love to have an awesome 5th wheel with all the room in the world, but I have to live within my means and hoped I could get some advice. Please forgive my not giving enough information to begin with.
  • What exactly is the problem? All you mention is the height of the door. What is the height to the bottom of the trusses?
  • Since you described the roof as having trusses, then I'm assuming that means wood trusses. If so, they are probably flat on the bottom and therefore limiting the height. You could remove the roof, replace the trusses with cathedral trusses and get more height in the center area. I did that years ago. With a 16 ft wide building, the outer 4 ft on each side was only 11 ft tall at the edge (which is fine for slideouts), the center 8 ft was 12.5 ft high. The front wall and door would also need replacement. With the door height you have now, there are basically no late model fifth wheels that can work, which means you are limited to TTs.

    Finally, if you are going to extend the depth of the building and can make that extension at the front, then you might be able to just build the extension taller. But that limits you to fifth wheels that don't have a flat roof (front to back).
  • JMO, but I think I would more concerned with whether what I want to buy will do what I want, more than whether it will fit in my shed.

    Don't get me wrong it's nice to store indoors, but you're buying an RV to use, and compromising on that, just so it will fit seems backwards to me. Unless of course you have no other place to keep it. Or if you're only planning on using it a couple times a year for a weekend.
  • I am so sorry, I thought you were all mind readers :) It is a Cleary building 30'x30'x14'. I cannot modify it other than length, but I am looking for another camper. Thought about a 5th wheels, but they will not clear the door and give me space to stand up in the bedroom, so I suppose it will be another trailer. I would like 2 slides if possible and keep it to 28' to not have to add to the length of the building.

    I can add pic later. Trusses in such a way to not go higher with a door, and price is a factor.

    Let me know if that is still not clear. Thanks for any advice.
  • I'm a little bit lost on your problem and what you are actually asking for. Are you asking for suggestions on a new camper, (like make, model, etc), or are you asking advise on how to modify the RV building? If you are looking for advise on the camper, and if it has to fit inside the RV building, and this is your #1 primary concern, then would you provide the dimensions of the building, and is there space once inside the door to extract the sides? This would help a lot.
  • You don't say what type building, or what actual size. If just a narrow 28' long wood framed metal shed, maybe you could raise it a couple feet, add to base.

    Got a pic, or more info?

    Jerry