Forum Discussion
RoyB
May 21, 2013Explorer II
The first thing I did was use the manual brake shoe adj just like on regular wheels. I adjusted mine to just feel a small drag when spinning the wheel.then back off just a tad...
Then I did the road test as described above... I adjust the controller voltage to just below where the brakes will drag the wheels going around 25MPH.
My brake settings vary between 3 and 6 VDC
All of this should be described in your brake controller manual.
Another thing I always do when I first hook up and head out and that is to use the manual slider lever to stop both my trailer and my truck at a couple of slow stop signs. This warms up my brakes and keep them from jerking... This also tells me my trailer brakes are working as well...
My first truck did not have built-in brake controller and I was using the P2 brake controller. This was a great unit for me to use. When I traded trucks it had a built-in brake controller with all kinds of smarts from being connected to the truck computer systems. It had me going for awhile as using the brake pedals worked applying trailer brakes when going around 25 miles or faster but would not work under around 10MPH. I thought something was wrong with them until I called Ford. Apparently the 2009 Ford models and up all have this feature that the Ford Brake pedal is disengaged from the trailer brake controller when the speedometer is less than 10MPH. Have no idea what their reasoning is. I was very used to using my truck brake pedal to also apply brakes on the trailer when I was stopped at a stop sign. All of this will work when you are using the manual slider lever but will not work just pushing in on the truck brake pedal when below 10MPH.
I kinda like the idea of the trailer brakes to be locked down when being stopped at a stop sign especially if you are on a decline..
Now I have to reach down and apply trailer braking using the full manual braking lever when stopped at a stop sign which is no big deal but had to relearn things haha...
Roy Ken
Then I did the road test as described above... I adjust the controller voltage to just below where the brakes will drag the wheels going around 25MPH.
My brake settings vary between 3 and 6 VDC
All of this should be described in your brake controller manual.
Another thing I always do when I first hook up and head out and that is to use the manual slider lever to stop both my trailer and my truck at a couple of slow stop signs. This warms up my brakes and keep them from jerking... This also tells me my trailer brakes are working as well...
My first truck did not have built-in brake controller and I was using the P2 brake controller. This was a great unit for me to use. When I traded trucks it had a built-in brake controller with all kinds of smarts from being connected to the truck computer systems. It had me going for awhile as using the brake pedals worked applying trailer brakes when going around 25 miles or faster but would not work under around 10MPH. I thought something was wrong with them until I called Ford. Apparently the 2009 Ford models and up all have this feature that the Ford Brake pedal is disengaged from the trailer brake controller when the speedometer is less than 10MPH. Have no idea what their reasoning is. I was very used to using my truck brake pedal to also apply brakes on the trailer when I was stopped at a stop sign. All of this will work when you are using the manual slider lever but will not work just pushing in on the truck brake pedal when below 10MPH.
I kinda like the idea of the trailer brakes to be locked down when being stopped at a stop sign especially if you are on a decline..
Now I have to reach down and apply trailer braking using the full manual braking lever when stopped at a stop sign which is no big deal but had to relearn things haha...
Roy Ken
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