Agreed with others on the 4.10 unless it's also going to be driven empty a lot. 14,3 isn't light and you will quickly get used to the 6.0 wanting to scream (or at least sound like it is). In tow/haul mode, 3,000RPM is the shift point.
We have a nearly identical truck but with the 4.30 gears. It's great for starting off but I would've like the 4.10's at most for cruising (4.30's ~2300RPM @ 70MPH) and it's large hills here in WI. no real mountains.
I'll only touch on the 6.0. My opinion on the 3.73s are pretty much in line with everyone else, you included. good economy and engine is strong enough to make up for higher gears.. Different story if a lot of hills/mountain towing though. If you do go with, be prepared for running lower trans gear/higher rpms. Limited slip is really nice when needed, if you are sticking to comercial campgrounds where mostly paved/gravel. I wouldn't worry too much. With the 4.30's (and supposed LS) i was still only spinning one wheel when we got in a weird spot on the grass. I just readjusted my angle.. you still have 4x4 if really needed.
As for the 6.0 itself. It's great when it works. Ours is only partially "bulletproofed". EGR delete, replaced oil cooler, replaced coolant with xerex, installed ipr coolant filter, dummy plugs, stand pipes, verified stc fitting is updated version, cleaned exhaust side of turbo. Only thing not done (and it's the big one) at this point is studs/gasket and I fear it's coming.
EGR delete - Fixes blown egr cooler flash boiling coolant which leads to HG/head issues. At least get upgraded BPD style if keeping it.
Oil cooler - Replace if/when replacing EGR cooler. Gets gunked up from ford gold coolant and **** left from engine assembly process
STC fitting - Verify/replace if/when replacing EGR/oil cooler. If older style, they can fail causing long starts/crank or no start.
Coolant - Xerex (ZXED1) replacement after flush. I read it was highly recommended along with a few others. This was just my choice of replacement.
Coolant filter - My extra piece of mind to help protect oil cooler from any remaining **** getting stuck in oil cooler.
Dummy plugs - Failed o-rings lead to long starts/crank or no start., replace with oem with poly washers (comes in kit)
Stand pipes - Failed o-rings lead to long starts/crank or no start., replace with oem with poly washers (comes in kit)
Exhaust side of turbo cleaning - Just used wire brush to clean off soot. This was causing us to overboost due to vanes not being able to work properly. Also found unison ring severly worn (cause over/under boost) along with worn actuator (cause over/under boost)
If you are able to do the proper bulletproof, make sure to have the heads checked for flatness otherwise you will be back. I've only read positive reviews about BPD's EGR cooler and it's about the same as a oem replacement. Along with any research your still doing, I'd recommend checking out powerstroke.org. They've helped me quite a bit.
Oh, and don't be afraid to stomp on it, on ramps.. etc. they don't like to be babied. I have pics of the turbo proving it. :)
Sorry for long post, hope it was at least somewhat helpful.
