Gun safe for RV

Saw some suggestions about Ammo storage with the guns. Jusy a bit of FYI. I am sure you are aware but some are not. Certain states require that Ammo is stored separtly from the guns.

Bedlam wrote:
I had a safe in my toyhauler and was able to bolt it to the floor because there was a storage compartment underneath. Use a steel plate on the underside and sandwich a second one between floor and safe if you need to distribute base weight. I used carriage bolts with lock nuts on the inside of the safe.

I would not worry too much about left to right weight balance in your TH unless it is a small one with low payload capacity. You could put one smaller safe in each forward corner if balance will be an issue.

BTW: I have seen a rolling mechanic's tool box bolted down after the wheels were removed. Locking cross bars secure the drawers in place and foam cutouts are in each drawer for the weapons.

Interesting. I had planned on using steel plates and carriage bolts for same reasons. The tool box is cool idea for handguns. My collection is half long-guns though. But it is still a very good idea. That's got me thinking about new ideas. hmmmm.

arhayes wrote:
I pored over this when we began full-timing 2 years ago We sometimes deploy the porch and I did not want anything in the garage that looked like a safe, and I came to realize that a real safe is just not an option, so I opted to give my 2 sons all but 4 of my guns. I get to shoot the ones gifted once or twice a year when we visit them. I have found several places in our rig to conceal weapons/ammo and do so. I carry daily, so there's only 3 left in the rig any time we're gone. Of course when we're in states that my LTC/CHL doesn't apply, I have them all secured. The OPSEC is the main thing in my mind. There are no stickers on the rig, truck or motorcycle, and I don't own or wear any shirts to make one think I might own weapons.

I thought about building a wood paneling veneer to go around the safe so people would think its just another cabinet.No stickers, t shirts, or anything on me or my property that says anything about me or my beliefs. OPSEC. Try to be the gray man.

ramgunner wrote:
One other thing I forgot to mention - re-key the locks on your RV. RVLocksAndMore is a good place to use. All of ours were re-keyed, are not on a common key, and we eliminated the master-keyed cylinders (marked with an M) on the handle locks as an extra precaution. Again, it makes someone take more time because a master key won't work.

Did not know that. Thanks for info. Will do..

I had a safe in my toyhauler and was able to bolt it to the floor because there was a storage compartment underneath. Use a steel plate on the underside and sandwich a second one between floor and safe if you need to distribute base weight. I used carriage bolts with lock nuts on the inside of the safe.

I would not worry too much about left to right weight balance in your TH unless it is a small one with low payload capacity. You could put one smaller safe in each forward corner if balance will be an issue.

BTW: I have seen a rolling mechanic's tool box bolted down after the wheels were removed. Locking cross bars secure the drawers in place and foam cutouts are in each drawer for the weapons.

I pored over this when we began full-timing 2 years ago We sometimes deploy the porch and I did not want anything in the garage that looked like a safe, and I came to realize that a real safe is just not an option, so I opted to give my 2 sons all but 4 of my guns. I get to shoot the ones gifted once or twice a year when we visit them. I have found several places in our rig to conceal weapons/ammo and do so. I carry daily, so there's only 3 left in the rig any time we're gone. Of course when we're in states that my LTC/CHL doesn't apply, I have them all secured. The OPSEC is the main thing in my mind. There are no stickers on the rig, truck or motorcycle, and I don't own or wear any shirts to make one think I might own weapons.

One other thing I forgot to mention - re-key the locks on your RV. RVLocksAndMore is a good place to use. All of ours were re-keyed, are not on a common key, and we eliminated the master-keyed cylinders (marked with an M) on the handle locks as an extra precaution. Again, it makes someone take more time because a master key won't work.

SCVJeff wrote:
For "20+", are you kidding? That's a REAL gun safe size, and a medium big one. You might find a cheap steel one but you will probably need at least two. A real gun safe that size will probably weigh 400-600lb.+ empty. My SIL just bought one that might handle that inventory and it weighs about 550lb., and the weight alone kept him from installing it upstairs in the house. I doubt your floor is rated anywhere near that weight for such a small footprint

I got it down to around 20. Couldn't part with them. I sold the others. Actually, once I move into RV, I may use one safe or cabinet.The other two safe/cabinet will probably be sold. I'll probably keep the lightest one that will hold all remaining guns, unless I find something I like better. Then I'll be selling 3.

ramgunner wrote:
As has been mentioned, the floor loading is going to be prohibitive, Even if it wasn't, the weight distribution would really throw things off unless placed directly on the centerline.

Your best security needs to start with OPSEC. No NRA or other bumper stickers or logos on your tow vehicle or toy hauler. Get some generic cases that can be used to take them from the trailer to the truck - an instrument case might even be a good choice. If people don't know they are there, they don't know the payoff potential of your trailer. They prefer knowing their effort will be worth something.

Do you have an alarm system on the entry doors to your RV? Something loud enough to attract attention. I'd also recommend looking at the windows in the garage, as well as the ramp door.

Of course, make sure you always use the deadbolt on the doors when you leave. Bad guys don't like to have to take a lot of time to get in, especially if the payoff is questionable. Anything that makes them spend more time getting in makes your trailer less of a target.

Do you have any lights under the trailer? I mention that because they will cause anyone messing around your trailer to appear in silhouette - meaning that they will really stand out. Bad guys don't want to be seen. We have some downward-facing blue LED's under ours that don't intrude on other campsites, but add this element of security.

All of the above combine to make your trailer less attractive to someone, make it take longer to get into, and then really attract attention if they breach the physical security layer.

In an RV, given the floor loading and other concerns, having them concealed is your best bet. Does the toy hauler have a compartment under the floor in the garage? Does the bed flip up? Is there a closet? Is there a concealment method available for storing them?

If you really want to put in a "safe", I'd consider one of the green, lightweight Stack-On cabinets https://www.amazon.com/Stack-GCDG-9216-Convertible-Double-Door-Security/dp/B002TOKR3U/ref=sr_1_33/166-4258620-1584413?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1477072430&sr=1-33&refinements=p_4%3AStack-On . They can be bolted down, and will take a bit of effort to open. Combined with all of the previous elements, they most likely won't want to stick around long enough to breach that secondary physical layer.

That's about the best you can do in a trailer.

OPSEC is good. Already thought about all that. Incorporating it in as well. Hiding is bad idea. Laws require firearms to be locked away from children. I don't have any, but children occasionally tag along when friends with kids visit.Trigger locks are acceptable by law, but If I'm going to that much trouble, then I'd rather they be securely locked up, not just inoperable.Lights under the RV, I have not considered. Good idea. Storing firearms in storage under RV would turn them into rusty scrap metal, unless I spent lots of time re-lubing.

I do have a Stack on cabinet like the one in your link also. I thought about using it.

Y-Guy wrote:
Could you build something that fits under the bed? Lift the bed, then a locking steel top with steel sides? Google "rv under bed safe" I found some ideas there.

Check out Monster Vault check out their Mid-Size/SUV Vault Images, maybe something like that under the bed would work if it's bolted to the floor and from of the bed frame/box is cut to fit it.

I thought about that. The slide-out parts take up the space under the bed in bedroom. Kinda killed that idea.