I wrote these notes down after the fact and so I would like some help in correcting them. I have only done this one time and that was with guidance. 1). Inspect hitch2). Verify "open" position of jaws.3). Open tailgate4). Back up truck close to hitch pin 5). Adjust camper height to match hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch6). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch.7). Verify jaws are locked around pin. 8). Replace safety pin to lock hitch9). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch10). Plug in cord for lights and breaks.11). Raise tail gate12). Check to see if all lights are working. 13). Remove wheel chocks14). Raise rear legs15). Raise front lags. 16). Test trailer brakes. 17). Drive offHope i thought of everything.Thanks in advance

#14 should be done before #5. If you have your rear jacks down and you raise the front any significant amount, that puts a lot of stress on the rear jacks.

Agree with Spud. I reordered your list making a few changes that I would add. Many, including me will have the camper height a little low, so that the hitch requires resistance to get under king pin. this will ensure that you aren't "high hitching", which can lead to unexpected situations. Also, Raising front legs 1" off of ground before removing wheel chocks, and do a "pull test" to ensure you are truly hitched up, and don't drop the trailer off the hitch. 1). Raise rear legs 2). Inspect hitch 3). Verify "open" position of jaws. 4). Open tailgate 5). Back up truck close to hitch pin 6). Adjust camper height to just below hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch, so that king pin will "ride up" hitch. 7). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch. 8). Verify jaws are locked around pin. 9). Replace safety pin to lock hitch 10). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch 11). Plug in cord for lights and breaks. 12). Raise tail gate 13). Check to see if all lights are working. 14). Raise front legs 1" off ground 15). Perform "pull test" to verify securely hitched 16). Remove wheel chocks 17). Test trailer brakes. 18). Drive off

Thanks. You are probably correct. I just thought that the trailer had to be lowered in the front to match the pin to truck hitch. Might be my confused memory. I'll pay better attention next time.

You do not have a pull test in your sequence, some people do not do one, but it is a good idea as a double check on the hitch attachment. Raise front legs 3 inches, pull against chock. Then 15, 13, 16... And yes 14 before 5 definitely.

The guy showing me everything told me to lock the trailer brakes by pressing to small levers together on the dash. That would lock the trailer brakes (testing) and also be the pull test at the same time.

Hitching Up to 5th Wheel | Good Sam Community

blofgren
Explorer
May 31, 2017
NMDriver wrote:
All of the above sequence after you disconnect sewer, water hose, electric power, lower antennae, lower skylight covers, close windows, secure cabinets, close toilet lid, shut off pump, turn off hot water heater, place refrig on propane, lock side storage, put up steps, load wife, dogs, cats, grandkids, etc. etc.

Ohh and go back inside for the sun glasses, and last "pit stop" before hitting the road, so you can forget and leave the toilet seat up and let the wife's toothbrush fall in the bowl ;)

LOL, thanks for the laugh! Funny and so very true! :B
filrupmark
Explorer
May 31, 2017
Here is a tip that makes setting your fiver hitching height very easy. After disconnecting adjust the length of your brake cable so it just touches the ground. I used some small stainless chain with a brass snap connector on the end. Then when your ready to hitch up drop your cable down set your height and back in. Works every time very smooth.
shadows4
Explorer III
May 31, 2017
okiejoe wrote:
Before driving off, put it in any position you like but check TV antenna is down.

X2 on this. Hate to admit it but this past weekend, we made it about 35 miles down the road before someone flagged us down. Oops!!!!

Thankfully all was ok. Luckily we hadn't hit anything, no damage.
ljr
Nomad
May 30, 2017
djousma wrote:
Tony B wrote:
The guy showing me everything told me to lock the trailer brakes by pressing to small levers together on the dash. That would lock the trailer brakes (testing) and also be the pull test at the same time.

That's true, except you want to leave your front legs an inch or two off the ground, instead of all the way up, just in case it does drop, it wont damage anything.

Been there. Done that. X2
okiejoe
Explorer
May 30, 2017
Before driving off, put it in any position you like but check TV antenna is down.
MarkTwain
Explorer
May 30, 2017
djousma wrote:
Agree with Spud. I reordered your list making a few changes that I would add. Many, including me will have the camper height a little low, so that the hitch requires resistance to get under king pin. this will ensure that you aren't "high hitching", which can lead to unexpected situations. Also, Raising front legs 1" off of ground before removing wheel chocks, and do a "pull test" to ensure you are truly hitched up, and don't drop the trailer off the hitch.

1). Raise rear legs
2). Inspect hitch
3). Verify "open" position of jaws.
4). Open tailgate
5). Back up truck close to hitch pin
6). Adjust camper height to just below hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch, so that king pin will "ride up" hitch.
7). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch.
8). Verify jaws are locked around pin.
9). Replace safety pin to lock hitch
10). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch
11). Plug in cord for lights and breaks.
12). Raise tail gate
13). Check to see if all lights are working.
14). Raise front legs 1" off ground
15). Perform "pull test" to verify securely hitched
16). Remove wheel chocks
17). Test trailer brakes.
18). Drive off

Great list. #6 is a absolute must for me. Trying to back up with the hitch pin to high or low can damage your hitch.
DReisinger
Explorer
May 30, 2017
I have read you should pick up about 100 lbs. on hitch when backing under. I always hitch with jaws closed, something I did for visibility is paint the jaws white, easier to see if they are closed. Of course this is on an old Reese 20K clunker.
MFL
Nomad II
May 30, 2017
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Personally I would do a pull test on most any other hitch but once you see the B&W in action you will realize it's a waste of time.

I guessed you were a little ahead of time with the earlier post about the visual test, being more accepted, than a few years ago. It's true, all hitches are not equal, and may not have the simple cam action of the B&W. I've towed a FW since 94, did the pull test once, but everyone needs to stay in their own comfort/safety zone.

I had a hitch with a slide bar, that was operated by a rotary arm that swung around, as the bar closed behind pin. You could then lock the arm handle, no way the bar could move. Yup, visual test (I look twice). It was a noisy clunker, and getting worse as the bar wore.

Jerry
Cummins12V98
Explorer III
May 30, 2017
Personally I would do a pull test on most any other hitch but once you see the B&W in action you will realize it's a waste of time.
one_strange_tex
Explorer
May 30, 2017
Re: Visual vs. pull test on hitch.

I do both. I look at it, but I still do the pull test since that is a true function test versus an appearance test. It verifies that the jaw or jaws are truly holding in the pin. Along the same lines, I both apply the trailer brake with the umbilical hooked in and place a chock in front of one of the wheels. Redundancy. The consequences of a failure are severe enough that I don't feel it is a time to be concerned with convenience or eliminating steps. I am actually checking the integrity of the trailer braking system at the same time.

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