importance of wheel chocks

I think some fifths come with longer front legs than others. Mine, even on the steepest inclines, always has enough travel without blocks.

Please put me in the camp of "never say never".

If a site (usually boondocking) might require some
blocking ..use it. I always chock the tires. Same
goes with asphalt camping out here in the desert
in July.

A caveat for those still under warranty... regardless
of what you read on these forums , do what your
RV manual indicates as the proper technique. A quick
scan thru various manuals on the net indicates differing
manufacturer recommendations . Failure to comply
wouldn't leave you a leg to stand on !
(see what I did there ?)...ha !


Charles

Michelle.S wrote:
Must be most of you camp on perfectly level spots, which in a ideal world would be great, BUT not all spots are level. We have a favorite SP on Lake Ontario where the sites have probably 12 or 18 inch slope, so you don't have an choice but to put some blocks under the landing gear just to get the 5er off the TV. Don't make a habit of it, but there are times where there is no choice other that moving to a less than desireable site.

I can't even unhitch in my driveway without blocks under the landing gear. My driveway has just enough slope that the legs won't extend far enough to raise the trailer enough to unhitch. For each of the four landing legs I carry a doubled 2x12x12 to keep the pads from sinking in too deep when needed, and to compensate for excessive slope. A little common sense goes a long way when deciding how to hitch or un hitch. Wheel chocks? Absolutely, but to say never put a block under a landing leg means you might not be able to unhook in some beautiful spot.

I don't know about you guys who =have= to use blocks. I know I've got AT LEAST 4 feet of travel on my landing gear; 2' on the motor and 2' on the extensions. IMO, the only "blocks" you should have under your landing legs are weight pads to keep them from sinking; =maybe= 2" thick, max. I =do= boondock and, at my usual spot, need nearly 20" to get level after unhitching. I run my legs down to about 6-8" from the ground before pulling the extension pins, unhitch just far enough to stay plugged in and drop the nose to level. No matter how well chocked, having landing legs blocked more than 6-8" scares me.

Lyle

waltfire wrote:
a brand new cedar creek was loading up to go home, the guy never chocked his wheels, so when he was backing in a little high the trailer should have rose up to hitch instead he pushed it off the blocks and dropped it on the bed of his new truck.
I was taught chocking your tires is the first thing and last thing you do even on level ground. If 15,000 pounds decides to move you can't stop it otherwise.

First off, why was it on blocks so tall that when it dropped it hit the bed? If it was prepped to be delivered, it would have had batteries in it and the dealer could have used their forklift to raise it up off the blocks so the legs could be dropped, then adjusted to hitch height. Second mistake was, obviously, no wheel chocks. =Ass=uming this was at a dealer, and the customer was a newbie, I'd put =both= mistakes squarely on the dealer's shoulders and they should fix the guy's truck.

Lyle

romore wrote:

Alley Fox wrote:
Curious as to why it was on blocks? I can't think of any reason why someone would stack blocks under the landing gear that were taller than the bedrail clearance distance, sounds like a shakey practice.

I use blocks, the landing gear does not extend far enough. Plus it saves cranking time although I admit that is a poor excuse.;)I am anal about using chocks, I want to make sure that trailer stays put until I am ready to move it.

Yep. I am in the same boat. I HAVE to use blocks as my landing gear doesn't extent far enough without them. But I am religious about my chocks. Its a pain in the ass, but I carry a total of 4 cinder blocks. Two for the landing and two for the stabilizers.

It sure sounds like some of you who don't put blocks under the front jacks have never boondocked and/or never camped in a campground where the so called gravel that is spread over the site gets so soft after a rain that the front jacks almost disappear after sinking into the ground. I use 2 2x8s under my front jacks and also the yellow weight dispersing pads. I use them under my rear jacks as well. If you don't put chocks down before unhooking and pick them up after hooking up, you're a disaster waiting to happen. I guess what someone means by blocks can be misconstrued by others.

Must be most of you camp on perfectly level spots, which in a ideal world would be great, BUT not all spots are level. We have a favorite SP on Lake Ontario where the sites have probably 12 or 18 inch slope, so you don't have an choice but to put some blocks under the landing gear just to get the 5er off the TV. Don't make a habit of it, but there are times where there is no choice other that moving to a less than desireable site.

I back up to hook up and enter with just some distance like 1/4" or less and the alpenlite doesn't know it happened. My wife comes unglued if it isn't a perfect hook up. Pull test is always done with the landing gear a couple of inches off the ground.
chevman

Well, I guess if you use a lot of front blocks under the front jacks, than you need to be super careful. Personally, I dont use blocks, except maybe 1 inch pads, if I think the surface is soft. JT STrongarms, etc are the best way to keep the front jacks from swaying.
I suppose if your front jacks are not long enough (which is weird in itself, especially on flat ground), than maybe blocks are necessary. But I have seen this situation many times, and always wanted to walk up the campers and tell them about JT STrongarms (or other brands).