Insulating the TH floor...

Thanks for all the great ideas..One of the reasons I like this BB is the experience of all the members..:)

Ed

Welding is easier...until you have to pull a panel. I suspect a grinder would cut the weld ...but then it looks like something an RV MFG might try:))))))))))))))))) My DeWalt cordless put my self-tapper screws in easily...and it looks awesome. A little overkill, but I caulked each piece where there is the 3/4 inch raised lap. No mouse is going to get inside my TH:)))))))

Fishbreath wrote:
With regards to the above post stating that galvanized steel can be welded.....
Although it can be welded, it is a task that should never be performed. Welding galvanized steel puts off a very deadly fume that can make you very sick.

Just FYI

Bill

Bill, thank you for voicing your concern about welding of galvanized material. :)

I am a professional, certified structural welder. I weld for my living. I weld galvanized steel ALOT, and have been doing so for several years. One of my certifications, AWS D-1.3, is specifically for welding light gauge galvanized and primer coated structural members (studs, tracks, joists, clips, etc).

Yes, the fumes can be dangerous when exposed on a long term basis, and they can make you feel sick even on a short term basis. There are very easy safety precautions to take when welding galvanized material....

Galvanized is best welded outdoors, whenever possible. Keep your face upwind of the weld, and/or wear an inexensive and easy to use 3M respirator mask under your hood, with the pink P-series filters, and all is well. :)

If welding galvanized insdoors in a shop, use a fan to direct the smoke away from yourself and leave doors and windows open, wherever possible, if there is no fume extracting upduct ventilation system in place. OSHA will require the shop to provide upduct ventilation at each welding station, if the shop is performing galvanized welding, on a production/manufacturing basis.

Also, for best results welding galvanized steel, either use E71T-GS or E71T-11 class flux-cored self-shielded wire, or 6011 or 6013 stick electrode. Using ER70S-x solid mig wire and shielding gas sometimes results in porosity in the weld.

With regards to the above post stating that galvanized steel can be welded.....
Although it can be welded, it is a task that should never be performed. Welding galvanized steel puts off a very deadly fume that can make you very sick.

Just FYI

Bill

I would go with galvanized steel sheet. Mice can't chew through it, nothing can tear it, it doesn't soak with water, doesn't warp, split or rot and it can be welded in, rather than screwed, which is much faster and easier for installation.

Check out the local sign shop. They may even have a stash of old signs that you could use.

you can buy the underbelly plastic at this website
http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=2212

Hi,

The material is called Coroplast.

Cut 1.5 inch styrofoam for sides of I-beam, then 1.5 inch sheets to sit on bottom edge of Ibeam from side-to-side. Threw the black belly sheets away and used ProPanel II steel roofing with fender washers and self-tapping screws. Removed the spare tire and its frame work to justify the added weight of steel. Roofing weighed less:))))

BUT: on my new Cyclone 3950...had to relocated wiring, water lines, gas lines, etc.etc upwards in order to accommadate the 1.5 sheets across the bottom.

Drilled hole in bottom of kitchen sink and dropped a thermostat sensor so I can monitor the actual temp of my "new basement". It is always8-10 degrees warmer than coach AND my floors are warm. Still NOT happy with my digital thermostat for my furnace. 5-8 degrees drop before furnace decides to "fire up" A true PITA when snowmobiling in MI.