Insulation

Water-Bug wrote:
If you decide to go the spray foam insulation route, be very careful. It is engineered to be sprayed between substantial residential siding and wall-board. As it expands, it can seriously bow the interior and exterior walls of an RV.

This is for the injected foam. Spray foam used in most new or reno construction is sprayed on the wall or roof surface. Closed cell has a higher R value and cures to a rigid material. If applied incorrectly it can cause damage during expansion. Open cell has a slightly lower R value, cures to a less rigid material and has far fewer problems causing damage during expansion. Closed cell is water tight and open cell isn't. Cost wise closed cell is more expensive, about 2-1/2 times the cost of fiberglas and open cell runs about twice the cost of fiberglass.

One of the biggest advantages of spray foam, either open or closed, is that it seals up all the small areas where air can seep in or out causing thermal transfers. About 2" of closed cell is equivalent to R-13 which is what you can get in a 2x4 wall. Getting all the small areas sealed actually does more for comfort than just having a higher R-value.

I had closed cell sprayed in my RV garage and open cell sprayed in my home. I actually stapled kraft paper to the upper side of the ceiling joints and they sprayed the closed cell into that. There was a little expansion of the kraft paper, but not much.

In heat, shade is always your cheapest cooling. If you can keep the roof and walls cool, you're half-way to keeping the inside cool. You need to be sure your shade is either wide enough, or low enough, to shade the walls as well as the roof.

Lyle

erw1988 wrote:
Yeah, we bought the unit with the intention of having no monthly payments (which we don't.) Can't really afford a new one. I'm honestly fine with having to park under a tree or canopy. We'll be in east Texas, where there are a lot of pines, so finding shade won't be an issue. I really dislike the heat, so that's just been the major thing; trying to keep cool in the trailer.

That would be the best bang for the buck park under a shade tree or buy a carport. Instead of a single large A/C I would use two units, one in the bedroom another in the living room and use fans to circulate the air. I have seen some rv parks in Texas that had a large carport over the site for a additional fee.

Shade will be your best friend and would try to get a site that is shaded in the afternoon and evening (hottest part of the day). Use reflective bubble wrap on the single pane windows as well to insulate them.

erw1988 wrote:
Damn, alright. Thanks for the reality check, y'all. Then that would bring me to another question: what's the best way to retain heat and cold inside the trailer? Winter living in Oregon (in the Portland area anyway) isn't too big of an issue for us. I'll just put a skirt around the thing and make sure any air leaks are plugged. But we're moving to Texas next year and want to be able to retain cool inside the trailer as much as possible. Is the best way to do this just to park under a tree or canopy, away from the sun for much of the day, and put tint on the windows, while running a window shaker? (We're going to have shore power in the summer and there is no AC installed in the trailer right now.)

No matter what you do, figure 75 dollars a week for propane and a 150 a month for electricity. Thats what it cost me winter 2013 in Troutdale.

erw1988 wrote:
Yeah, we bought the unit with the intention of having no monthly payments (which we don't.) Can't really afford a new one. I'm honestly fine with having to park under a tree or canopy. We'll be in east Texas, where there are a lot of pines, so finding shade won't be an issue. I really dislike the heat, so that's just been the major thing; trying to keep cool in the trailer.

Since you probably won't move the unit much, shade trees, exterior window shades and with the humidity of east Texas, a dehumidifier besides the A/C.

rhagfo wrote:

B.O. Plenty wrote:
What about adding furring strips to the inside to make the walls thicker and adding a layer of polystyrene foam. Or remove the siding, (easy job, just start at the top and work down. And add a layer of 1/4" to3/8" thick foam insulation board like they use under residential vinyl and metal siding. It won't offer a lot but it will seal up all the gaps. Just sayin...

B.O.

If removing Aluminum siding you start at the bottom and work up. Voice of experience!

Whoops. I did one years ago to fix some water damage. Yup I forgot..you start at the bottom, not the top...scuse me..

B.O.

B.O. Plenty wrote:
What about adding furring strips to the inside to make the walls thicker and adding a layer of polystyrene foam. Or remove the siding, (easy job, just start at the top and work down. And add a layer of 1/4" to3/8" thick foam insulation board like they use under residential vinyl and metal siding. It won't offer a lot but it will seal up all the gaps. Just sayin...

B.O.

If removing Aluminum siding you start at the bottom and work up. Voice of experience!

What about adding furring strips to the inside to make the walls thicker and adding a layer of polystyrene foam. Or remove the siding, (easy job, just start at the top and work down. And add a layer of 1/4" to3/8" thick foam insulation board like they use under residential vinyl and metal siding. It won't offer a lot but it will seal up all the gaps. Just sayin...

B.O.

If you decide to go the spray foam insulation route, be very careful. It is engineered to be sprayed between substantial residential siding and wall-board. As it expands, it can seriously bow the interior and exterior walls of an RV.

Yeah, we bought the unit with the intention of having no monthly payments (which we don't.) Can't really afford a new one. I'm honestly fine with having to park under a tree or canopy. We'll be in east Texas, where there are a lot of pines, so finding shade won't be an issue. I really dislike the heat, so that's just been the major thing; trying to keep cool in the trailer.