JT Strong Arm Installation Question

goducks10 wrote:

JRS & B wrote:
Is your trailer on concrete at the present time?

You may find that on a grass/dirt site that the rear of the trailer might still move more than you wish.

So, when time permits, I would still install the rears.

We just happen to Snowbird camp on a smallish slab where the rear stabilizers are located well beyond the slab out on the grass.

I think the JT's help a lot in that kind of situation. The same goes for a full grass site.

x2 on the dirt issue. The rears make a difference. Just go out and push the rear corner. It will wiggle. Add the rear JT's and the wiggle will be gone.

Yes....the trailer is in my my driveway....which is flat and level. I did the same push test on the rear of the camper -- and there is slight movement -- but nothing like the front swayed. But you guys have valid points -- and I appreciate the feedback. If we find there is still beyond acceptable movement after our upcoming camping trip, I'll install the rears. It's only two more holes in the frame. Drilling 6 holes yesterday took a while -- but two more won't be so bad -- and drilling through the angle iron will be pretty easy.

JRS & B wrote:
Is your trailer on concrete at the present time?

You may find that on a grass/dirt site that the rear of the trailer might still move more than you wish.

So, when time permits, I would still install the rears.

We just happen to Snowbird camp on a smallish slab where the rear stabilizers are located well beyond the slab out on the grass.

I think the JT's help a lot in that kind of situation. The same goes for a full grass site.

x2 on the dirt issue. The rears make a difference. Just go out and push the rear corner. It will wiggle. Add the rear JT's and the wiggle will be gone.

Is your trailer on concrete at the present time?

You may find that on a grass/dirt site that the rear of the trailer might still move more than you wish.

So, when time permits, I would still install the rears.

We just happen to Snowbird camp on a smallish slab where the rear stabilizers are located well beyond the slab out on the grass.

I think the JT's help a lot in that kind of situation. The same goes for a full grass site.

stripit wrote:
Great review, don't ya just love it when a product worked just like they said it would and installed without any major problems.

Proudcts don't always work out this way....but yes, I am. :) These stabilizer bars work on a very simple principle....so as long as they are fabricated properly...and the manufacturer does what they can to adapt to most any trailer out there and give you the necessary hardware, these should be pretty straightforward. I'm delighted I don't have to cut down a piece of angle iron and drill more holes in the frame for the rears....but it really wouldn't have been all that bad, honestly. It would just have been drilling two more holes in the frame....and then two more in the angle iron. But...the way I look at it, I now have two spare stabilizer bars if I ever need them -- and the two extra "T" handles have now taken up permanet residence in the camper should I ever forget to tighten one prior to travelling and lose one along the way. :)

My two suggestions for the manufacturer would be to offer a kit with only 4 bars in it and sell that kit cheaper for those that only plan to install 4. And for those that buy the full 6 bar kit, include the rear stabilizer adapters with that kit so you don't have to order something in addition to the base kit. Just my $.025 (I like to think my opinion is valid so I always add a half cent :) ).

Rob

Great review, don't ya just love it when a product worked just like they said it would and installed without any major problems.

Thought I'd update everyone on how the install went. I bought a few tools in preparation for the job -- a good set of metal bits and a deburring tool. I got some tap oil to keep the bit lubricated/cool -- and everything else I already had.

A close inspection of the underneath of my camper showed that the under belly goes to about half the width of the main frame rails on each side -- so the edge was exposed on top and bottom which allowed me to use nuts and bolts rather than self-tappers. I did have to trim one small piece of the under belly, but it cuts easily with a sharp blade.

I also noted that there isn't a horizontal frame rail support for the rear that was in a place I needed for installing the rear bars. I contacted Lippert, my frame's manufacturer, and obtained the engineering diagram -- which validated what I already suspected and helped me determine what was/wasn’t underneath the under belly. The best option for the rear would have been to install a piece of angle iron bolted to the main frame rails, and mount the JT legs to that. Of note, if you have power telescoping rear stabilizers, you'll need an adapter for the legs that isn't included with the kit. It is just a few metal plates that I think should be included with the kit.

I also called Mobile Outfitters, a division of Lippert, who distributes the JT Strong Arm kits. After speaking with the tech, they strongly suggested I install the front 4 legs...and see how much stability I get from just those 4 before I go through the trouble of installing the rears -- that 95% of what these stabilizer arms will do comes from the front 4.

So I went out early this morning and got to work. This isn't a difficult job once you read through the instructions, determine which parts apply to your specific camper, and know what your plan is. The instructions are actually quite good. The most time-consuming part is drilling through the frame. If you have expose frame rails and plan to use nuts and bolts instead of the self-tapping screws, I would strongly suggest you get very high quality 1/8" (for pilot holes) and 3/8" bits. It will cut the amount of drilling time down considerably. Even with high quality bits -- a low speed drill, lubricating oil, and patience is required for the drilling.

Everything went as planned, I wore my safety goggles to keep the hot metal meanies from getting into my eyes, and I was in business. I attached the front 4 bars and I was ready to test out the install.

I brought my wife out and, with the bars in the unlocked/sliding state, had her push sideways on the nose of the camper to show her how easy it was to rock it back and forth -- and that's what we were feeling inside the camper. I then locked the 4 stabilizer bars, and bumped the nose of the camper up slightly to firm everything up, and then had her push on the camper again. She couldn't get it to budge -- not one bit -- despite how hard she pushed. We went inside and tried to rock it back and forth -- and trying our hardest, we could detect only the slightest amount of movement -- but you'd never feel that under normal use. To go one step further, she went into the master bedroom and closed the door. I walked all around the rest of the camper and she couldn't tell when I was standing still or moving. I see no need to install the remaining 2 bars at this point. We're camping in about a week and a half and will know for sure after that trip.

I did the install by myself and really took my time and the setup took me a tad under 3 hours. If you had someone fetching/passing tools and preassembling some of the parts, it would go quicker.

So...there's the update.

Rob

Grady23 wrote:
BTW-- DON'T forget the safety glasses when drilling overhead. I spent 6 hrs at the hospital on one occassion waiting to get a piece of cutting remove from my right eye because I didn't use them.

Yes, Dad. :) Kidding....always sound advice/good practice.

BTW-- DON'T forget the safety glasses when drilling overhead. I spent 6 hrs at the hospital on one occassion waiting to get a piece of cutting remove from my right eye because I didn't use them.

I was going to use my impact gun, but I've broken cheap bolts before and I didn't want to deal with THAT! I'm not saying that the parts are cheap, I just didn't want to chance breaking one off. If you have ever had to drill out one of those suckers after breaking it off you'll know why I did it the way I did. I would have also need to pull out 100' of air hose or move the 5'er. It was just easier to use the manual tap set since it was only 4 holes. The self-tapping screws that came in the set seemed to lack enough taper to start well once the 5/16 hole was drilled. Frame steel can be rather hard! The screws worked great after I tapped the threads by hand.
DNC -- Sent you a P/M.

Last thought,

If you have done this job before, and/or have a helper, then the whole job can be done by noon.

If you are going to read as you go along, and measure twice and drill once, do not be surprised if only the fronts are done at noon. Drilling and tapping the holes consumes a bit of time all by itself.