Kodiac Brakes

Gib3633 wrote:
if you pull your brake away pin.
Don't leave the pin pulled longer than a listening test as Moryde burnt my switch bleeding the brakes. Good Luck

Another method is to have an assistant, from the driver seat, operate the brake controller manually to power the brakes. That eliminates the less-than-robust nature of the emergency break-away switch.

Here is a photo of the Ford/Chevy adapter module mounted under the brake actuator:

I also have a 2013 Mobile Suite.GM need a special module but not Ford or Ram. Those brakes work very well but from my experience the pads which are 1998 Buick LeSabre are a fairly small pad . If you pull off the wheel and look down from the top the pads will look unused. However if you remove a caliper for a closer look the pads could be completely worn out. They sit higher than the rotor and wear beneath the top of the pad. I have changed mine twice and keep a spare set at home. It is amazing how strong they brake considering how small the pads are but with that in mind they are fairly short lived. That would be my first check assuming you can hear the pump if you pull your brake away pin.
Don't leave the pin pulled longer than a listening test as Moryde burnt my switch bleeding the brakes. Good Luck

JTrac wrote:
The Excel dealer wired in what he said was a magnet that did something to make the brake controller work properly.

Yes I have read this is a common practice to install a bake magnetic coil in parallel with the pump so the controller will sense the current flow and avoid the fault condition. Probably the low cost solution.

Roger10378 wrote:
If it has a electric over hydraulic setting it should work. The add on module or magnet was for the controllers that were designed for electric only.

That is not true for my 2016 F350 with the integrated OEM trailer brake control system set to electric-over-hydraulic.

I needed to add the brake adapter module that I linked to above. Once that was done it worked seamlessly.

If it has a electric over hydraulic setting it should work. The add on module or magnet was for the controllers that were designed for electric only. Kodiac doesn't make any of the electric over hydraulic pump/controls. You need to find out which unit you have and make sure that it works. If you pull your emergency brake cord you should hear the motor run and brakes engage. If this does not energize the brakes it is the pump unit and not your controller.

JTrac, I hear what you are saying about memory!! Thanks

I wish my memory was better but when we bought our Excel in 2012 we had 2012 GMC 3500. The Excel dealer wired in what he said was a magnet that did something to make the brake controller work properly. I have never removed it even though we have a new truck. Everything still works normally.

Ok an assuming the trailer is fine with a good pump and fluid... Some of the early OEM controllers did not like the hydraulic pump and need a resistor to pass some current for the controller to detect all is normal.

Link posted above by member Planning:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4846000.html

Also check the trailer on-board battery is not dead as this battery actually powers the pump.

Yes, works just fine with regular electric drum brakes.

Have you towed before and the controller works fine?